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Snodge

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Everything posted by Snodge

  1. If you wanted something a bit different, then the Lensbaby Velvet 85mm f/1.8 would certainly do that; otherwise there is a 135mm lens I've had my eye on - the MC APO Telezenitar 2.8/135 Lens, which is available new from the Lomography store. Ebay may have some older versions of the lens too. Otherwise I think Samyang is your only other choice really...
  2. May I also suggest the Fujinon 55mm f/1.8 m42 lens? Also works great with a Lens Turbo II...
  3. It's so hard to choose, but at the moment, I think my 3 are currently the Fuji 14mm f/2.8, 25mm f/1.8 Zonlai HD Discover, and Fuji 55mm f/1.8 m42 with Lens Turbo II
  4. Fujinon 55mm f/1.8 on a Fuji X-T10 swimming by Hugh Jones, on Flickr
  5. It kinda depends if you want to use a new manual focus lens (Samyang/Rokinon, Zonlai etc) or if you want to use an old lens for character. For the old lenses, as has been mentioned, the 50mm lenses are great - lots of variety both in price and manufacturers. The Industar 61-L/Z 50mm f/2.8 is nice and sharp, cheap, and comes with it's own extension tube to use for macro (below taken with the lens on a Canon body before I got the Fuji!): butterfly by Hugh Jones, on Flickr
  6. If you can live with an f/2.8 lens, the Industar-61 L/Z is a nice lens that also comes with it's own extension tube for macro; they're not expensive but they have great image quality and very good sharpness. At 50mm it would do well at the shorter end of the portrait range. If you want something a bit longer, there's the reasonably affordable Helios 40-2 which is an 85mm f/1.5 lens that can have a swirly bokeh effect in some situations. The Jupiter 9 at f/2.0 may be a cheaper and lighter alternative. If you use a focal reducer (I use the very good Lens Turbo II) then you can also look at the myriad of 135mm lenses too, of which there are plenty in m42 mount. I've got a Sankyo Kohki Komura 135mm f/2.8 lens that while has low contrast renders very nicely indeed...
  7. If you need 13 or 16 stops, the circular Formatt Hitech iRND filters are the way to go, no colour cast either...
  8. I've used m42 lenses adapted to my Canon, and then when I got my X-T10, I used them with that too - at first because I didn't have any Fuji lenses, and now even with Fuji lenses, I use them because they are fun, and they have their own look and character which seems to be diminished with modern lenses that seem to seek sharpness as the defining characteristic. I use a Lens Turbo II for Canon EF mount (I have a Meyer Optik Somnium 85mm f/1.5 lens in EF mount) and use m42->EF to mount the old m42 lenses from ebay. At the moment, the MIR-24 35mm f/2 and Fuji 55mm f/1.8 lenses are my favourite...
  9. I use adapted lenses as much, if not more on my X-T10 than I do than using Fuji lenses. It suits me, and I like the look of the images from some of the old lenses. For me, it's fun, so I keep doing it! As for resources, mflenses dot com is dedicated to old lenses and is interesting to look through, especially if you want to find out about a specific lens...
  10. I got an X-T10 during black Friday in 2015, with no Fuji lenses. I found I was using it more with adapted m42 lenses than I was using my Canon 5D3, so after about 11 months, I got rid of my Canon gear as I just wasn't using it. I've got a couple of Fuji lenses as well now, but I liked the Fuji body before liking the Fuji lenses!
  11. I also have the 14mm Fuji prime - it's one of the few lenses that works perfectly for infrared images. It's light and sharp and vignetting and distortion are very well controlled.
  12. I picked a Zeiss up second hand and I'm happy with it, but I've never tried the Fuji 35mm. I think either would be fine, I'd just go with which ever is cheapest...
  13. Ken Rockwell... the Donald Trump of the photography world...
  14. I use a MIR-24M on my Lens Turbo II - it renders nicely, goes down to f/2 and is generally cheaper than the Zeiss lenses...
  15. Ah! I did some looking into lenses that can be used for infrared photography, and the 14mm prime works great!
  16. Taken on a Fuji X-T10 with a Kaligor m42 135mm f/2.8 lens at f/8 on a Lens Turbo II, this is the view looking out from Dyrham Park near Bristol. JPG straight out of camera, cropped and some extra sharpening... cattle by Hugh Jones, on Flickr
  17. What problem do you get with the 35mm f/2 for infrared? Looking at the images, I can't see any hotspots, so just wondered...
  18. I suppose it depends really on if you like the results that you get with the adapted lenses. If you think you need more sharpness, or that you might need autofocus for the 10% of the time not on the tripod, then perhaps rent a lens, give it a try and see? I've only got a Fuji 14mm X mount lens; it fills a gap that the older adapted lenses can't match (the lenses I have for m42 don't go any wider than a mediocre 28mm), however it depends what I'm shooting, how I feel on a particular day, and what sort of image I think I will get out at the end of the day.
  19. It's also perhaps worth bearing in mind that the Zeiss Biotar 58mm f/2 lens, which these Helios lenses are derived from, can also be found relatively inexpensively - gives another option for the same look. Here is an image taken with a Helios 44-2 on my X-T10 and a Lens Turbo II, and processed in Lightroom.
  20. Snodge

    wait

    From the album: My pics

    Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 with Lens Turbo II on Fuji X-T10 Waiting for the ferry over the river Avon in Bristol to the tea rooms...
  21. Snodge

    My pics

  22. The 23 f/1.4 is next on my list to get; I like the low light capability and I know it works perfectly with infrared...
  23. I have an X-T10, and considering trading in my Canon 5D3 and lenses as I've only got the 14mm Fuji lens so far, and otherwise using adapted lenses...
  24. I've only got the 14mm Fuji lens for my X-T10 (other than manual focus old adapted lenses) - personally I don't find it difficult composing images with it, however that being said, I've not tried to use it for street photography. My thoughts on this are that you just need to be aware of how an image will look when using a lens with a specific angle of view; in this case, objects appearing smaller the further away from the camera they are, and the distance involved that creates that effect.
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