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Hi! Thanks for this comment! Yes, although I'm utterly happy with my X-T50, small, light, sharp pictures, Xapp functioning, I've got to know that the camera tends to emphasize contrast in contrasty scenes. In a way this is strange to me, as X-T50 mostly exposes very well. This is especially expected with photos with foliage. Of course, I would like that the behaviour would be different. When I'm taking travel and such pictures I choose for JPG format (not HEIC, as Mac's Photos opens them oddly very slowly; iPhone's HEICs open fast ...). With JPG I've chosen to use the DR400 setting, but the problem is still there. For "more important" photos I of course use the RAW format. Regards, T. -
By lilyelliott40 · Posted
Congrats on your Fuji! Since the receipt is in your relative’s name, they’re technically the original owner for warranty purposes. Some manufacturers, including Fuji UK, may allow a warranty transfer if you contact them and explain it was a gift. You could either ask your relative to make any initial claim, or reach out to Fuji to register it under your name as the recipient of a custom gift. Since it hasn’t been registered yet, it’s a good time to check with them. -
By lilyelliott40 · Posted
Hi Dolores! 👋 Nice to meet you. I’m pretty new around here and just starting to dive deeper into the Fuji world, so it’s really cool to hear about your journey through all those cameras! How are you liking the X-T4 compared to the X-T2? I’ve been thinking about upgrading at some point and would love to hear your thoughts. -
By lilyelliott40 · Posted
You're welcome! Glad to hear I’m not the only one who’s been through this. 😊 If you liked how the X-H2S felt, it could definitely be a solid option — it’s fast, has great autofocus, and feels really responsive. Might be worth testing it a bit more to see if it matches your shooting style. -
By lilyelliott40 · Posted
Great insights here! Light direction really defines how much detail you can recover in shadows and highlights. Backlighting, especially, can easily push your sensor’s dynamic range to the limit. Using a bit of front fill light or a reflector definitely helps, but I’ve also found that combining bracketing with ETTR (Expose to the Right) gives much more flexibility in post. With ETTR, I slightly overexpose to capture as much shadow detail as possible, then pull highlights back during editing — though it’s a balancing act to avoid clipping. Graduated ND filters are also super useful when the sky is significantly brighter than the subject. Thanks for sharing the DR settings guide — understanding how your camera handles Dynamic Range Priority is crucial, especially when shooting high-contrast scenes.
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