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jerryy

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Everything posted by jerryy

  1. Is this still happening? By chance did you have the camera turned on when you changed the lens?
  2. Still no snow so far, but it is winter around here. Tomorrow is another new day though ... so there is that.
  3. Check the menu setting: Connection Setting >> PC Connection Mode >> and make sure it is set to USB CARD READER (The default settings may have it set to USB RAW CONV./BACKUP RESTORE.) Change it if necessary. Shut the camera off, turn it back on and check to make sure the setting 'stuck'. Then plug your camera into your Mac and use your photo software for the transfer. I find that using Image Capture instead of the others turns out to be easier to transfer the raw images to the computer's drive.
  4. That happens to me on an ongoing basis. 😃 Welcome to the forum.
  5. Affinity Photo for Windows uses libraw https://www.libraw.org/supported-cameras which for the X-T4 means: uncompressed and lossless compressed only. HTH
  6. That lens does not have an aperture ring, the f-stop has to be changed using a different method. What you were seeing is because the lens is a variable aperture type that had its f-stop set using, probably, the auto setting from the body, As the zoom changed, the exposure changed and the camera reacted by changing the f-stop. http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t10/menu_shooting/aperture_setting/index.html This may help, I do not have a manual for the X-A3 handy, so I am not certain how to tell you to navigate all of the menus to find all of the setting that apply to aperture and exposure and dig out which one got changed to cause what you are seeing. Advising a full reset may fix the current issue, but not give you an idea about how to stop it from happening again.
  7. this may help: http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t10/lens/no_a-ring/index.html That is from the X-T10 manual, but as I understand it, that applies for the other bodies as well. If you are using a lens with an aperture ring, then something else is happening.
  8. Something else is going on ... The F number is telling you what the aperture setting is, not what the focus is. If you are using a lens without an aperture ring, you have to set the aperture ( F number ) by way of changing a menu setting, not by twisting the focus ring. Also, if you have the camera set to auto focus, twisting the focus ring will not do much. Which lens are you using?
  9. To expand on that a bit, this type of support is different than trying to convince Fujifilm to add a feature to a button or dial — something that only affects Fujifilm made cameras.This affects the entire still and motion film industry. Broadly speaking, there are three parts: Software, Hardware, and — this is the trickiest one — Licensing. If any of the three parts is too onerous, the idea will not move forward. Look at the individual frames of a movie, whether it be on a dvd, a blu-ray or streaming. A lot of those are jpeg or similar. Those frames have to be displayable on the receiving hardware, so that means the software has to be capable of doing its part, the hardware can help as it is running a specialized algorithm to decode the data, and the licensing that allows those two parts to operate has to come with terms that the manufacturer can afford. That is just on the playback end. The encoding end has the same problems. Right now, there are very few equipment manufacturers that build machines that can stream movies or play dvds or blu-rays that have the frames encoded in the new format. The slightly older ones simply cannot. So the world will have to buy all new equipment to take part. Hence, watch what the professional video world does.
  10. I think you have misunderstood ... pro world means professional world, as in watch to see what the professional video folks do. Canon announced support for the standard back in 2019, but has not made much of it in regards as having it being a big selling point. Something to consider, Apple has been pushing this in part because it helps them with file size management on their pads and phones. But go to their computers and do a screen capture. Even in their latest cutting edge beta versions of their operating software, the screen capture is stored as a png file, not as a heif. Disk space on those computers comes at a premium, so it would make sense for them to use the newer format, but they do not.
  11. Watch the pro video world to see if this format will catch on or not. They pretty much push the standards that make it. We have been here before, many times. Check into jpeg2000, some of the old SGI stuff, etc. All of these are “better” than jpeg, and are still around, but failed to knock off jpeg. The upcoming JPEG-XL format looks to make sure it keeps camera manufacturers in the jpg camp. We shall see.
  12. Just to clear things a bit, your raw files are NOT being saved as black and white images. The raw data saves a jpg image inside the data file that has your current camera settings — the white balance, the film simulation, etc. — saved inside it. Image editors use that jpg image as a starting point to have something to display, sort of solving the old adage which came first, the chicken or the egg. You could set your camera’s default simulation to Provia as David suggests and run a quick recipe based batch convert using your favorite image editor to convert the images and save them out as black and white jpgs for uploading. Just curious, why would you upload the raw files to social media? A session with one hundred images is going to take a lot of bandwidth to transfer them in a timely fashion.
  13. You can also do this using exif editors without having to worry about that extra byte in the body name. But hex editors are more fun! (In general, is you do this make. sure the sensor and bsi type etc. etc. are the same so that the image editor can bring out the most in the file. You might want to change the information after you have imported it.)
  14. jerryy

    Copper Bottle

  15. Using the backup approach is a very good idea. Sandisk works with a company that sells sd card recovery programs / apps. https://kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4985/~/data-recovery-for-memory-cards-and-flash-drives They have a demo version that you can use to see if it will work to get back your lost images, then buy the license to finish the job. The current cost for the program is US$ 40.
  16. Try using a remote release to do that. You have a couple of options as listed here: http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t100/taking_photo/shooting_mode/index.html Scroll down to the section Bulb (B). HTH...
  17. Give this a try: https://kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/9699/~/mac-error-code-36-when-transferring-files
  18. whew! So then Fujifilm did not accidentally let a bunch of tsukumogami slip out of Japan.😃
  19. So the lenses are quietly talking behind our backs. I knew I heard some grumbling the last time I closed the camera bag 😃
  20. I probably should have mentioned that this option is in the menu for Image Quality Setting >> Long Exposure NR with the choice of on or off. The other types of noise reduction (Sharpness and Noise Reduction -- which are also found in the Image Quality Menu) are applied to jpeg images during the in camera developing. These settings are not supposed to affect raw images. So assuming you are shooting raw images, you can leave these at their current values without any worries.
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