BobJ

That's a very unfair comment cpX. I have an X-T2 which I bought in 2016 and is still going strong (now converted to infra-red), an X-T3 and an XE -3. All still working. I know photographers that have had Nikons and Canons that have failed. You can be unlucky with any make. Remember the Canon eos 5d mirror problem? They used to fall out. And the Nikon oil on sensor problem? Not to mention the Leica M8 with the peeling sensor cover glass coating.

I have had an x-t2 for, I think, six years. It has been converted to infra red and I still use it. I also have an x-t3 and an x-e3. I have never experienced this problem. I can only surmise that there was a bad batch of batteries. If so Fuji should be fixing your cameras for free.

For what it's worth I have not experienced this with my 70-300 and always leave the ios on, even at high shutter speeds. That is except when using a tripod. I think that you may have a faulty lens. V

I talked to the Fuji guy who was examining cameras for free at the show and he said that it is within spec. Their example was much tighter though! I know from experience that, although Fuji repair have been very good with obvious faults, that it will probably be a waste of money to send it in. I have bought a third party lens hood (Haoge lh-x18). This is metal, has a completely different design, and is heavier than the Fuji version. I am more confident that the lens will stay stable in high winds with this hood on.

I don't know for sure but I would say it is paranoia. Certainly with the weather resistant cameras it couldn't be a problem could it? Your phone is probably sealed against moisture and can be immersed. They generally meet the IP68 standard. There is obviously no problem with their mic and speaker ports and I would imagine that the same port engineering would be used on the XT etc cameras.

The sensor glass is what is exposed. It is anti-reflection coated and is quite easily damaged. Hence why you have to be careful when you clean it. If it comes into contact with anything hard you will know about it!

I wouldn't do this. You only need to touch the sensor surface with the edge of the filter and your camera will become an ornament.

I can't see your image of this (too small, at least on the tablet I am using at the moment). Generally speaking though, it's common to have the odd scratch where someone hasn't been too careful when changing the lens.

Surely there isn't any point, as when you put a half pressure on the shutter release the lens stops down to is working aperture and so you get the same function.

Thanks to your kind replies I am convinced that it's not right. There is a photo show coming next month and Fuji will be there. I should be able to see their copy and talk to them. Then I will send it for repair.

What exposure shift? I just tried my 16-80 and my 70-300 on a large white card, so that the metered scene did not change with the zoom. I also used a fixed manual focus distance as exposure may vary slightly with focus distance due to the extra extension - that's normal for any lens. The 70-300 is a variable aperture lens so with apertures wider than f5.6 the exposure will vary. I tried it at f5.6. neither lens shows any exposure variation.

So this is interesting. I contacted Fuji support in the UK and they told me that the play is normal for this lens.

This is quite normal. It's the focusing lens group moving. A linear motor is used to drive the group and when the power is off it is free to move around.

Many thanks for your replies guys. Looks like a trip to the repair centre for the lens.

My 16-80 has an annoying characteristic. The extending part of the lens barrel wobbles. When fully extended to the 80mm position the front of the lens has approx. 1.5 to 2mm play. This doesn't sound much but if examined in the viewfinder it is disconcerting to say the least. Apart from possible effect on the resolution I am worried, that if out in high winds, the lens will wobble about during the exposure, especially if a lens hood is fitted. My 70-300, despite having a much longer extension doesn't suffer with this problem. My question is, is this the same on other examples or do I have a faulty lens? P.S. The 16-80 needs a zoom lock. When the camera is carried on a strap it 'trombones' every time. The 70-300 has one but doesn't seem to need it!

I was using OEM batteries. In my case the problem was traced to a faulty SD card.

You are comparing a 4.3x zoom with a 16.5x. The 70-300 is a very sharp lens and considering how difficult it gets to make a zoom lens perform as the zoom ratio increases, I would be very surprised indeed if the Tamron can compete with the Fuji on sharpness .

I can't say that the sd card is the cause in your case but I had intermittent freezes which turned out to be a faulty Lexar card. Note that you will have to replace both cards to try it as one card will hang both. I don't buy Lexar cards any more.

Stick with Lightroom and buy X-Transformer (cheap). Use X-Transformer to convert the raws to DNG raw. You will find that your worms are gone. I believe that camera specific versions of C1 have been discontinued.

Its really far easier to wear your glasses, although I admit that you might have trouble with sufficient eye relief., so you would need to try the cameras out.

The XE-4 is smaller and lighter but the viewfinder may be better in the X-T3. I have an X-T3 and an XE-3. For me the XE-3 is too small. I believe that E4 is even smaller. Yes, they both have the same sensor. There are other important ergonomic differences too. You do need to see them both.

As someone has aleady said, stick with Lightroom and buy X-Transformer. Learn to use Lightroom (it does take time, but in my opinion is easier than C1) and enjoy Photoshop too, as it is included in the plan. If you want upgrades with C1 you will either have to pay dearly for them or join their monthly rental plan, which is more expensive than the Adobe plan - and no Photoshop. Also the DAM in C1 is not a patch on Lightroom. Admittedly that might not matter too much depending on how many files you have.

They are all there in LR by default. You can make import presets with any selected simulations and have them applied on import.

If all you want is more ram you may be able to put that in yourself.

You can get excellent results from C1 and LR, although using X Transformer with Lightroom does give a better raw conversion, comparable with C1. There is a difference in philosophy between the two. C1 gives you an auto adjusted file to start with. LR assumes you are in control from the beginning and hence gives a flatter looking starting point. However, LR has setiings for all the Fuji film simulations and you can make your own import presets. If you want tethering I believe C1 is the way to go. C1 is not really a one off payment license. When an upgrade is released you will have to pay a hefty sum to get it. Otherwise you can pay monthly - same as Lightroom. Also you get Photoshop and Lightroom in the Adobe subscription. I am a Photoshop user so it's a LR no brainer for me.