BobJ

I have had to clean my x-t3 sensor a few times. A hand operated bulb blower is often all you need. Never use canned air. If any propellant gets onto the sensor you will not be able to remove it. Also they are too powerful. Sometimes there is a spot that needs wet cleaning. Anyone can do wet cleaning. Buy a kit from a reputable company and follow the instructions. The camera should be switched off unless it is a model with IBIS. In that case, switch the camera on. Switch IBIS off, switch to ES shutter and make sure rhat the power saving function is off and that your battery is not about to die. Only use very light pressure when moving the swab across the sensor.

Even with Rawdigger you are not seeing the output from the sensel. You are looking at the data after it has been converted into pixels. Each sensel has a photodiode which converts the amount of light it is exposed to to a voltage. It is an analogue device. This voltage is amplified and applied to an analogue to digital converter in order to get a digital value for that pixel. Two things come from this. Digital cameras are actually analogue at the start of the imaging chain and it is not possible to see the actual photodiode output. Rawdigger is looking at the output data - the only thing it can look at. It is showing you the digital output from the converter. If there is a loss of value associated with a phase detect sensel, this will most likely have been dealt with in the amplifier or during conversion. If that sensel is not being used for imaging at all, then yes, Rawdigger should see it as missing.Strangely, film is digital. Each grain of silver is either there or it is not. It is the number of grains that have been exposed that makes up the tonal value. Digital is analogue and film is digital!

That is not really raw data. It is the raw after it has been processed, by the camera into pixels. The data coming out of the d to a convertor is just binary and can only be decoded into an image by the camera or raw converter software. That is why you can't see a difference.

Probably no worries, but don't use those adhesive things on a stick. In my opinion they are a flawed idea.

If you want to travel with one lens, in my opinion, the 16-80 is preferred.

It looks like something has penetrated the lens elements. It could be separation between cemented elements. By the way, never squirt lens solution directly onto the front element. Apologies, as I am sure you know that. Either way I should send it in for examination.

Regarding sample variation. I have seen two very bad 18-55s and a bad 10-24, which my friend had to return to Fuji for repair twice before they would recognise there was a problem. I had a 10-24 that was fairly poor at the edges. I sold it. It seems that you can get the occasional bad apple with any lens. I have an 18-55 and the 16-80. My samples are about on a par optically and quite acceptable. I find the 16-80 to be a much more versatile lens. Additionally it has a much more capable ios. It is so good that you can forget about the loss of a stop at the wide end, except in the case of subject movement of course. Most of the reviews of the 16-80 seem to be expecting too much. Remember, it's a 5:1 zoom and is never going to be as sharp as a prime

I had a problem with a 10-24mm lens that was a grey import from Hong Kong. It was repaired with no issues, but of course I had to pay. I live in the UK. I have had no problems like yours with my X-T3. It sounds to me that something went wrong during the firmware upgrade and the rest followed from that.

From my experience with both of those lenses I would say no. Remember though that you will get an improvement using them with 40mp, just not as much as with the sharper lenses. How much of an improvement I don't know. Resolution is determined by the product of all the system components.

Believe it or not, any colour can be expressed using adjustments from yellow to blue and green to magenta (near enough to red), plus a chanel for lightness. You may have heard of this in Photoshop, where it is called LAB - lightness, a and b, where a and b are the yellow/blue and green/magenta channels. This is how white balance adjustments work. Remember, if you reduce yellow you increase blue and if you reduce green you increase red (strictly speaking, magenta).

Sorry, you said an X-E3. I don't know why I picked up X-T20. I think I had just been reading a different post. I have an X-E3 and it definitely does not exhibit that behaviour, so I am afraid that you have a fault.

That sounds very strange. I have three X series cameras, but admittedly not an X-T20. On mine the internal battery is maintained perfectly by the replaceable battery. I don't see why it should be different for the X-T20. I think you have a faulty camera. Contact your nearest Fuji repair centre and ask them about it. .

That's a very unfair comment cpX. I have an X-T2 which I bought in 2016 and is still going strong (now converted to infra-red), an X-T3 and an XE -3. All still working. I know photographers that have had Nikons and Canons that have failed. You can be unlucky with any make. Remember the Canon eos 5d mirror problem? They used to fall out. And the Nikon oil on sensor problem? Not to mention the Leica M8 with the peeling sensor cover glass coating.

I have had an x-t2 for, I think, six years. It has been converted to infra red and I still use it. I also have an x-t3 and an x-e3. I have never experienced this problem. I can only surmise that there was a bad batch of batteries. If so Fuji should be fixing your cameras for free.

For what it's worth I have not experienced this with my 70-300 and always leave the ios on, even at high shutter speeds. That is except when using a tripod. I think that you may have a faulty lens. V

I talked to the Fuji guy who was examining cameras for free at the show and he said that it is within spec. Their example was much tighter though! I know from experience that, although Fuji repair have been very good with obvious faults, that it will probably be a waste of money to send it in. I have bought a third party lens hood (Haoge lh-x18). This is metal, has a completely different design, and is heavier than the Fuji version. I am more confident that the lens will stay stable in high winds with this hood on.

I don't know for sure but I would say it is paranoia. Certainly with the weather resistant cameras it couldn't be a problem could it? Your phone is probably sealed against moisture and can be immersed. They generally meet the IP68 standard. There is obviously no problem with their mic and speaker ports and I would imagine that the same port engineering would be used on the XT etc cameras.

The sensor glass is what is exposed. It is anti-reflection coated and is quite easily damaged. Hence why you have to be careful when you clean it. If it comes into contact with anything hard you will know about it!

I wouldn't do this. You only need to touch the sensor surface with the edge of the filter and your camera will become an ornament.

I can't see your image of this (too small, at least on the tablet I am using at the moment). Generally speaking though, it's common to have the odd scratch where someone hasn't been too careful when changing the lens.

Surely there isn't any point, as when you put a half pressure on the shutter release the lens stops down to is working aperture and so you get the same function.

Thanks to your kind replies I am convinced that it's not right. There is a photo show coming next month and Fuji will be there. I should be able to see their copy and talk to them. Then I will send it for repair.

What exposure shift? I just tried my 16-80 and my 70-300 on a large white card, so that the metered scene did not change with the zoom. I also used a fixed manual focus distance as exposure may vary slightly with focus distance due to the extra extension - that's normal for any lens. The 70-300 is a variable aperture lens so with apertures wider than f5.6 the exposure will vary. I tried it at f5.6. neither lens shows any exposure variation.

So this is interesting. I contacted Fuji support in the UK and they told me that the play is normal for this lens.

This is quite normal. It's the focusing lens group moving. A linear motor is used to drive the group and when the power is off it is free to move around.