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Everything posted by BobJ

  1. No, it doesn't work if you have pulled the ring to manual. The 14mm is a sharp lens by the way. You won't be disappointed.
  2. Don't worry about the shutter count. If it's working OK just use it. It's very unlikely that the shutter is worn out. I believe that 150000 actuations has been quoted for the X-T3, but that from memory. It's going to be at least 100000 though.
  3. I forgot to mention. To see the images correctly on the camera you can check some settings. Make sure that evf and lcd color are set to 0. Likewise lcd color adjustment (you can tweak these later if necessary). More importantly make sure 'natural live view' is off. These are located in the 'spanner' section under 'screen setting'.
  4. Can you describe the difference for us? What software are you using to view them on your computer? Do they look, the same on another computer and monitor or on a tablet or phone? Is your monitor calibrated? Most monitors that are not specifically made for photography are too blue and too bright out of the box. If you don't have a colorimeter, and your Images look OK on other devices, you can try adjusting the monitor using its controls.
  5. There is no such thing as wrong white balance, just one which you prefer. It's subjective. Every person sees colour differently. Not only tht but auto white balance can be fooled with scenes containing a dominant colour.
  6. 18-300 is hardly the same as 70-300 . Because of the much greater range of the 18-300 I doubt very much that it would compare with the excellent image quality of the Fuji lens but surely the first decision is whether or not you need the 18-70 component .
  7. Buy a secondhand 55-200. It5 an amazingly good lens.
  8. When focus bracketing it is unlikely that you will be dealing with fast moving subjects or flickering lights. If you set the interval to 0 you run the risk of shutter shock taking the edge off the sharpness. So electronic shutter is the way to go in most circumstances.
  9. It's not particularly the size and weight of the cameras. It's the size and weight of the lenses that makes a difference.
  10. Fujifilm have been very astute in not joining the full frame market which is saturated with Sony, Nikon, Panasonic, Pentax, Canon, Leica - have I missed anyone else? Fuji are a big company but with a relatively small camera division. They have found their niche.
  11. I know exactly how much bit depth my camera has. If you actually read my last reply you will see that I quoted 14 bits for raw. When processing raw you can take full advantage of this input. The formats you are talking about are output formats that are produced either in the camera or by post processing software from the 12, or usually now, 14 bits from the A to D converter. As things stand at the moment jpeg xl seems to me to be the best bet for stills, although I could be wrong. We will have to wait and see. As I said, video may be a different matter.
  12. I don't have an X-T4 but this might be a faulty battery. Worth a try.
  13. I find that the viewfinder cup that is supplied with the X-T3 is not suitable for use with glasses as the eye relief is not sufficient. I use the older, smaller 'flat' version which works well and I can see the whole evf using it. I think it is called the EC-XT S.
  14. I can't see a much need for anyone to send 1000 images. Possibly for an image library? The main point of the new format is that is a container. It can hold all sorts of files including, for example, audio and video. It has better compression but I doubt the image file size is smaller than jpeg because of the extra bit depth. It cannot give better detail but it will give better colour accuracy. There is no printer that I know of that can take advantage of more than 8 bits per channel though and although we specialists do have 10 bit monitors, for stills only Photoshop can take advantage so far. Lightroom, for example, is still 8 bit. Additionally there are no cameras at the moment, other than exotica like Phase One, that have more than 14 bits in the d to a convertor. So I think the new formats are of no real interest to a stills photographer at this time. Video may be a different story. JPEG XL may be more likely to become the new standard.
  15. If I want to have the full colour and bit depth that my camera can record I use RAW. If I then want to preserve all of that I work with 16 bit TIFF. What would I want HEIF for?
  16. I think that you are describing the normal noise from this lens and others. It's the gyros for the IOS, which run all the time irrespective of whether IOS is on or off. Also there may be some noise from the linear motors that do the focusing. I am not sure about the latter. The noise is normally very low so either you have sensitive hearing or perhaps there could be sometimes wrong but I doubt it.
  17. Sorry, I have only just returned to look at the forum. I can't give you a video as I threw the cards away a long time ago. It is possible that what you all are experiencing is something different but in my case it was definitely a faulty sd card. Try with two different cards installed. You never know.
  18. I have not experienced this with my new 70-300. In fact the auto focus is very quick and positive indeed. I don't know what the problem is but perhaps the lens is faulty.
  19. In my experience this can be down to a faulty sd card. If you have two cards in, the faulty one will still cause the lock up as the camera cannot write to it. Replace both cards with good quality new ones and try again.
  20. Not sure what went wrong for you. I have an X-T3 and do not have any real exposure problems. The XT-30 is smaller and lighter but the X-t3 is, as you say, weather resistent and has a much better viewfinder. I would say plump for the X-T3 if you can get one within your budget.
  21. The firmware update may be coincidence. I had this experience with an x-t2. it was caused by a faulty SD card. Swopping them around will not work. The bad one will cause this fault in either slot. Replace both in the first instance and see what happens. I do hope that it is that simple for you too.
  22. So Fuji released another firmware update on November 11th - 1.02. I haven't got the patience to repeat the exhaustive tests I did before but with some quick tests I believe that the issue has been resolved. The 16-80 now shows no more shutter induced softness than the 18-55 and this is such a small effect that it can only be seen by careful pixel peeping at 100%.
  23. Thanks for bringing this to the attention of others. I recently bought the 16-80. I have done some tests with my X-T2 on the 18-55 and the 16-80 on and off a tripod and with ES and MS for each case, taking three images each time to try to eliminate other variables. I switched the OIS off when the 18-55 was on the tripod but did not switch it off (in the camera settings) for the 16-80. I set both lenses to 23mm and used iso to vary the exposure. The results (dozens of images - took ages) showed that the 18-55 was affected. Some shots were slightly sharper with the electronic shutter. This applied on or off the tripod. The 16-80 was affected more than the 18-55. It does seem to be more sensitive around 1/100 to 1/200th. I didn't expect this result but it explains the somewhat variable results I have been getting. This means that if it is shutter shock then at slow shutter settings, where the vibrations have died down for most of the exposure, and high speeds which are presumably too fast to record the after shocks, the effect will be negligable. So it looks like it could be the shutter. The 16-80 seems to be affected more than the 18-55. I don't yet know if switching the OIS off in camera with the 16-80 helps. it's worth noting that the effect is small. You can see it plainly at 100% magnification on a 100ppi monitor but this would equate to a five foot wide print at that resolution. Still, it is disturbing. Fortunately for most of my photography I can use the electronic shutter. Sony had this trouble with the original A7 and A7R.
  24. A good copy of this lens should be very sharp, but I have seen a bad copy. A friend bought an x-t2 together with an 18-55mm. Compared to my copy it was awful! So Fuji do make the odd bad lens. However the results didn't look quite like yours. I suspect you do have a bad copy but before you jump to conclusions you might like to do some better controlled tests. Remove any filter that you have attached. Poor quality filters can give this kind of effect. Take the camera outside as obviously you don,t want to shoot through glass. Select a distant view so that depth of field doesn't matter too much. Switch off the OIS on the lens and mount the camera on a tripod. Do not extend the centre column. Take test shots using the two second self timer to avoid shaking the camera. Take one at max aperture and one at f5.6 at 18mm and 55mm. It's possible that the OIS is responsible in which case you will have to switch it on and try some hand held shots. Good luck
  25. I rarely use video but a couple of days ago I wanted some of the grandchildren. To my surprise after about 10 seconds the video would stop with a write error. this was at 25fps HD. I tried all sorts including different cards. Eventually on a whim I changed the full Hd movie output from SD FHD HDMI FHD to SD-HDMI FHD, tried to take a video, which of course didn't work, then changed the setting back to SD FHD HDMI FHD. Voila! I don't know what that was about but It's been ok since. I hope that this may help someone else. I guess cameras nowadays are not really cameras. They are computers with a camera function.
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