BobJ

My 16-80 has an annoying characteristic. The extending part of the lens barrel wobbles. When fully extended to the 80mm position the front of the lens has approx. 1.5 to 2mm play. This doesn't sound much but if examined in the viewfinder it is disconcerting to say the least. Apart from possible effect on the resolution I am worried, that if out in high winds, the lens will wobble about during the exposure, especially if a lens hood is fitted. My 70-300, despite having a much longer extension doesn't suffer with this problem. My question is, is this the same on other examples or do I have a faulty lens? P.S. The 16-80 needs a zoom lock. When the camera is carried on a strap it 'trombones' every time. The 70-300 has one but doesn't seem to need it!

I was using OEM batteries. In my case the problem was traced to a faulty SD card.

You are comparing a 4.3x zoom with a 16.5x. The 70-300 is a very sharp lens and considering how difficult it gets to make a zoom lens perform as the zoom ratio increases, I would be very surprised indeed if the Tamron can compete with the Fuji on sharpness .

I can't say that the sd card is the cause in your case but I had intermittent freezes which turned out to be a faulty Lexar card. Note that you will have to replace both cards to try it as one card will hang both. I don't buy Lexar cards any more.

Stick with Lightroom and buy X-Transformer (cheap). Use X-Transformer to convert the raws to DNG raw. You will find that your worms are gone. I believe that camera specific versions of C1 have been discontinued.

Its really far easier to wear your glasses, although I admit that you might have trouble with sufficient eye relief., so you would need to try the cameras out.

The XE-4 is smaller and lighter but the viewfinder may be better in the X-T3. I have an X-T3 and an XE-3. For me the XE-3 is too small. I believe that E4 is even smaller. Yes, they both have the same sensor. There are other important ergonomic differences too. You do need to see them both.

As someone has aleady said, stick with Lightroom and buy X-Transformer. Learn to use Lightroom (it does take time, but in my opinion is easier than C1) and enjoy Photoshop too, as it is included in the plan. If you want upgrades with C1 you will either have to pay dearly for them or join their monthly rental plan, which is more expensive than the Adobe plan - and no Photoshop. Also the DAM in C1 is not a patch on Lightroom. Admittedly that might not matter too much depending on how many files you have.

They are all there in LR by default. You can make import presets with any selected simulations and have them applied on import.

If all you want is more ram you may be able to put that in yourself.

You can get excellent results from C1 and LR, although using X Transformer with Lightroom does give a better raw conversion, comparable with C1. There is a difference in philosophy between the two. C1 gives you an auto adjusted file to start with. LR assumes you are in control from the beginning and hence gives a flatter looking starting point. However, LR has setiings for all the Fuji film simulations and you can make your own import presets. If you want tethering I believe C1 is the way to go. C1 is not really a one off payment license. When an upgrade is released you will have to pay a hefty sum to get it. Otherwise you can pay monthly - same as Lightroom. Also you get Photoshop and Lightroom in the Adobe subscription. I am a Photoshop user so it's a LR no brainer for me.

Probably you have the touch screen on. I have mine disabled for this reason. Frankly touch screens are of limited use anyway.

Try making sure that you are in zone or wide mode. Also try turning off eye detect (although I think it should work with that on). By the way, it is possible to set the joystick so that when you press it and rotate the rear dial it will go through all the focus area options. menu > AF Mode > all. If you manage to get the tracking back don't forget that there are various tracking options for different scenarios. Otherwise I don't know what is wrong.

I don't see why you want to trade in the 16-80, unless you want a very shallow depth of field, in which case go for the 56mm. The 16-80 is perfectly OK for portraits and works well at f4.

In my opinion raw is the way to go with any camera. It gives you a much wider range of options in post and takes advantage of the cameras full dynamic range. Then you can forget about wondering what film simulation to use and do it all afterwards. That's just me though. I understand that there are other opinions.

The sensor is behind several layers of glass. There is an anti static cover glass, an infra red reject filter and the micro lenses for the sensels. Then there are the colour filters for the photodiodes. So you are not actually cleaning the sensor, only the cover glass. It is coated though, so you definitely can't use your shirt sleeve It does have an anti reflection coating but is actually quite tough. The main thing is to make sure that you blow off any loose dust before you use the swab, only use the fluid supplied with the kit and don't press hard. I have been cleaning sensors for years with no problems. Don't use those sticky pad things, they are dodgy. Most dust can be blown off with a rubber "rocket" blower. Never, never, use canned air. If the propellant gets on the glass you will never get it off, plus they are too powerful and can damage the shutter.

To give a definitive answer is impossible, even if I had experience with all those cameras - who would? I know that real camera stores are thin on the ground these days, but the most important consideration is how the camera feels in your hand. You should try them out. For instance, the X-S10 is small and light and is a great camera but may be too small if you have big hands. The X-T4 has very different ergonomics, with dials and buttons. IBIS is nice to have for some photography but not nearly so important as some think. For instance, when in the city, subject movement is more likely to be a problem than camera movement. Also, as you say, many lenses have stabilisation. Another consideration is are the lenses you think you might need available within your budget and are there plenty of secondhand lenses available for the mount. There are no really bad cameras out there, just different ones.

Additionally, the lightroom library module is designed for previewing and choosing. It is brilliant for that. There are lots of YouTube videos. Try Julianne Kost.

Why is this an issue? It is the same for all cameras as far as I know including all film and digital slrs. You can only focus accurately with the lens at its widest aperture simply because that has the shallowest dof. Then if you want to get some indication of the dof you half press the shutter button, which is way more convenient than pressing the dof button on an slr and getting a view so dim you can't really see anything. For dof do not rely on focus peaking. It wil only give you a rough idea. Use the magnified view for that. You have to have some understanding of dof, (which varies according to how big the final image is displayed), where to focus and what aperture to use. I assume you are talking about landscape. It's not easy but It will come with experience. Take lots of photos and analyse the failures. .

No, it doesn't work if you have pulled the ring to manual. The 14mm is a sharp lens by the way. You won't be disappointed.

Don't worry about the shutter count. If it's working OK just use it. It's very unlikely that the shutter is worn out. I believe that 150000 actuations has been quoted for the X-T3, but that from memory. It's going to be at least 100000 though.

I forgot to mention. To see the images correctly on the camera you can check some settings. Make sure that evf and lcd color are set to 0. Likewise lcd color adjustment (you can tweak these later if necessary). More importantly make sure 'natural live view' is off. These are located in the 'spanner' section under 'screen setting'.

Can you describe the difference for us? What software are you using to view them on your computer? Do they look, the same on another computer and monitor or on a tablet or phone? Is your monitor calibrated? Most monitors that are not specifically made for photography are too blue and too bright out of the box. If you don't have a colorimeter, and your Images look OK on other devices, you can try adjusting the monitor using its controls.

There is no such thing as wrong white balance, just one which you prefer. It's subjective. Every person sees colour differently. Not only tht but auto white balance can be fooled with scenes containing a dominant colour.

18-300 is hardly the same as 70-300 . Because of the much greater range of the 18-300 I doubt very much that it would compare with the excellent image quality of the Fuji lens but surely the first decision is whether or not you need the 18-70 component .