BobJ

Hello FujiBiker. Welcome. I am a fellow photo dinosaur (the grandchildren are convinced that they were around when I was young) from the West Midlands.

The 16-80 should be sharper as it is a 5 to 1 zoom as opposed to a 7.5 to 1. But if the results from your 18-135 meet your needs I would stick with it.

I have just tried this with my X-T5. The test photo gave 4500k. It really depends on what you call 'daylight'. Depending on the weather, time of year and time of day it can cover a wide range of temperatures. I guess Fuji decided that something a little warmer suits the average person better, so they changed it.

I have just looked at my X-T2. Yes, the peak highlights are hidden in the T2, when the first pressure is taken, as opposed to the T5. The viewfinder information is partially cleared in both cameras and appears to be the same to me. I don't know of a way to alter the behavior.

I have tried both. Stilck with Lightroom and enjoy the much better file management and the new automatic masking, not to mention that you also get Photoshop. If you are worried about worms, buy the cheap X Transformer and run the files through that first. The reason why files look better in C1 before being tweaked is a difference in philosophy. Adobe give you a flat looking result that can be changed manually or with any of the Fujifilm presets, or indeed a preset of your own (which can be applied automaticallyon import). Whereas C1 give you something that they think you might like.

Are you sure that you have the correct file? Format the card in the camera and go back to the Fuji site to download a fresh file.

Yes, the barrel of my 16-80 is very loose and will 'trombone' if I carry the camera with the lens pointing down. Not only that, but at the 80mm end it wobbles about by over 1mm. Strangely that doesn't seem to affect the image quality. It is ironic that the 70-300 is fitted with a zoom lock but doesn't need it and, despite the much longer inner barrel, doesn't wobble either. It's a bad fault with the 16-80. On my next trip to London I intend to take the lens to the Fuji House of Photography and complain loudly about it.

This is obvious I guess, but have you tried replacing the sd cards?

When I used my 16-80 in low light for the first time with an x-t3 I was amazed. It's difficult to calculate the benefit in stops, and how Fuji measure that I don't know, but I can use much longer shutter speeds than would be possible otherwise. I now have the x-t5 which, although it has the addition of IBIS, has a higher resolution sensor. I will make some tests when I get the time. Should be interesting. In practice of course there is subject movement, which means that stabilisation is only useful with static subjects. I wonder what test rig camera manufacturers use to measure it. I am sure that there is marketing hype, but it does work we'll.

I think that you must have had a faulty camera.The eye detection on my x-t5 is very impressive.

I just read a comment in The Online Photographer (I highly recommend this blog by the way) that suggests that Fuji will not sell many of these. What do you think? Is it too specialist? I would love one but cannot afford it right now, which is just as well!

In ye olde days of film I had to carry two bodies if I wanted to shoot in colour and mono. A right pain in the back. Medium format was better as the camera had interchangeable film backs. But would I want to back to that? Not really. Only if the gains were more than the loss. I am not convinced that they are.

I couldn't agree more. I bought the Laowa to copy slides and negatives and take the occasional macro. It's pin sharp. Totally manual though. I used to own the Fuji 60mm. Beware though that it doesn't go to 1:1 and it loses its sharpness if you try an extension tube. Very sharp within its range though but focus is a bit slow.

Actually Valve, you are right. They have sold you something that is not fit for purpose. So of course you are entitled to a replacement or refund. The Sales of Good's Act 1979 has you covered. I am shocked by your experience. To put this total camera failure into perspective though, over the past, I think, 10 years I have been through an x-e2, x-t1, x-t2, x-t3 and now my current models, x-e3 and x-t5. I still have the x-t2, which is converted to infra-red. In that time, apart from accidents, I have had two failures. The x-t3 developed a faulty exposure compensation dial and the x-t1 flash circuitry failed. The x-t1 was fixed under warranty and the x-t3 was out of warranty but repaired very promptly by Fuji.

The problem is that if it is looser, as it was on my X-T3, it is too easy to change it accidentally. Fuji need to add a lock somehow.

There are no worms when sharpening in Lightroom.

Don't bother trying to contact them. Send it in straight away for warranty repair stating what the faults are. In my experience the Fuji repair department are very good.

Format the sd card in the camera first. Download directly to the sd card. Do not put it into any folder in your computer. That should work

In my opinion, the new features in Lightroom and Photoshop have made the combination the best available. For example, the new AI powered noise reduction is arguably as good as Topaz Denoise and it's built-in. I now have an X-T5 and I have found, that with it's new sensor, there is no tendency to produce the 'worms' that could be seen in foliage at high magnifications. So no need for X Transformer or Capture One to avoid them. Lightrooms image management is superior to Capture Ones. There are many things that you can do in Photoshop that cannot be done in Lightroom or Capture One. So if it was my money I would go with Adobe

Sharpness is not everything in a picture, in fact beyond a certain point it is not important, and chasing after a small increase is pointless. Forget the stupid list and go out and enjoy what you have.

Sorry, I have only just read this post. The battery life on the x-t5 is a revelation after that of my x-t3. I find that if I set the power setting to time out the camera I can lose a spontaneous shot, as it takes too long to switch on. In addition, if I have the camera on a tripod, taking a landscape, the last thing I want is for the camera to switch off and lose all the settings. With the X-T3 this was an issue due to the poor battery capacity. The X-T5 battery lasts so well that there is no longer a problem.

The 60mm, although very sharp, only goes down to 1:2 and doesn't work well with tubes. Look at the laowa 65mm. Totally manual, which doesn't matter much with macro, does 2:1 and is very sharp. At least mine is anyway.

I have been printing ever since it was a darkroom job. I have a 6 year old Epson P800 that hardly ever clogs, even when left idle for weeks. The problem is that if you just want the odd print, as you state, it is simply not worth buying a printer. There are many companies that will do the job for you on good quality inkjet paper. It won't be cheap but it wil be much cheaper than buying the printer, paper and ink just to make few copies.

It would be liable to be a very niche product. Probably not worth Fuji setting up the production line. I would like the Pentax camera to be a success but I don't think that they will sell many units. That is no problem for Leica, who have always specialised in low volume high price.

I have never noticed this effect on my x-t3, which I have owned for several years. I use Lightroom and recently X Transformer. I just thought to mention it as obviously it is not present in all x-t3s..