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Sandro_gsp last won the day on February 21

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  1. ok, thanks a lot ! At least I discovered how to fix it ; using "shooting only" as Ibis method. It saves quite a lot of battery, too !!!!!
  2. do you mean the problem has been fixed in X-T4 and X-S10 but not on X-H1 ? Did you do any test ?
  3. I didn't chang the front switch ( S/C/M ) , that's for focusing: I changed the stabilization setting ( Ibis ) : from continuous to shoot-only. This wrong behaviour shows up only with my Zoom lens, not with my prime lenses. The tests I did today were shooting a tree in front of my windows , no wind at all. And I discovered that pictures taken with shoot-only are wharp, while with continuous Ibis are not. This problems is with every exposure time from 1/500 sec. down to 1/30th
  4. Lately I noticed the pictures taken with X-H1 and XF16-80 were kinda blurry. But luckily every picture taken with my primes was OK..... Of course the blurriness can be seen only enlarging the pictrures up to 100% . I was about to throw my XF16-80 zoom in the trashcan , when I had an idea : I switched the stabilization from continuous to "shoot only" Et voilà : now all pictures taken with my zoom are crisp and sharp ! Why, oh why ? Where is the problem with Ibis continuous? is it the camera ? or the zoom lens ? p.s. : both camera and lens firmware are updated.
  5. IBIS + OIS should be working toghether to get better results. Or , at least, this is what FUji claims .... But ..... has anybody ever tested it ??? I tested with XF16-80 mounted on X-E3 (no Ibis) and mounted on X-H1 ( Ois + Ibis) To me Fuji claim is simply not true : the results are exactly the same. (of course Firmware is updated everywhere). In fact the claimed stop gains are the same : 5.5 both with and without Ibis. So...... is this simply another case of marketing hype, to trick customers into buying something ?
  6. I found this lens OIS quite lousy . Very very far from the promised 4 stops. https://www.imaging-resource.com/lenses/fujinon/xf-18-55mm-f2.8-4-r-lm-ois/image-stabilization-test/ Without Ois you need 1/125th sec for a 50mm lens, right ? Ok, I agree. Then 1 stop gain means 1/60th .... 2 stop gain would mean 1/30th .... 3 stops 1/15th .... 4 stops 1/8th . Right ? Well ..... forget it ! All the promised Fuji stop gains are blatantly overstated ! Particularly with the XF18-55 lens the ois gain is quite limited in reality. You can count on 1stop (always) , 2stops (shooting with care), 3 stops (seldom) .
  7. I have been interested in macro since the Fuji X-line came out. I bought the (in)famous XF60, and although it's crazy sharp for portraits, I've never been satisfied with the close-up it produces. About 1 year ago I sold it. Over the years I also bought the MCEX-11 , the MCEX-16, and the Raynox 150 and 250. Now I get satisfactory results using my X-H1 and the XF50 and XF90 lenses. I can confirm : prime lenses are much more suited to be used both with extension tubes and Raynox lenses. With the XF90 I can reach the following magnifications (with good results) : Lens only Mcex-11 Mcex-16 raynox150 raynox250 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.7 1.0 the best combinations are with Mcex-16 and with raynox150, for the ease of focus and the Dof .
  8. N.B : I switch off sharpening and noise reduction because I use Neatimage plug-in in Photoshop.
  9. these pages are only for DNG converter : I don't see mentioned Camera Raw since 2012 (camera Raw 7.1) . The question is : can Camera raw be downloaded somewhere from Adobe web site ? Where exactly ?
  10. Googling around I found Camera Raw 11 : http://getintopc.com/softwares/photoshop-plugins/adobe-camera-raw-11-free-download/ It supports X-T3 , and most of all ..... it seems to vastly improve Fuji Raw conversion and Noise Reduction. Try it out !
  11. I have both the 55-200 and the 50-230 OIS II . Both produce stunning results , coupled with my X-Pro2 . After many tests side-by side , I decided to carry with me only the lighter 50-230. The much praised XF55-200 sits in the basement, for now. The fact is : simply I cannot see the difference in IQ ! Then I prefer to travel light. I don't see many cases where the extra f-stop given by the XF lens would make a difference, for me.
  12. I settled down with Irident X-transformer with these settings: RAW process : more detailed sharpening:none Luminance noise reduction: Low Color noise reduction : medium Dng baseline : adobe default Apply all corrections to the image. (all checked) All the turn off lightroom checkboxes checked. as for sharpening and further noise reduction I use NeatImage ( a Photoshop add-on)
  13. why should you need the set the camera as "manual flash" ? I beleive you need to enable TTL in the camera, in order to have Hss enabled. Btw: I have an x-pro2, but I guess the settings should be the same.
  14. Just 2 days ago I run many tests for XC16-50 Ois II vs XF18-55 . I did the tests at 50 and 55 ( the longer end ) . My results are : - no difference in IQ ( no one that I can see). - with my XC16-50 Ois II I can shoot down to 1/8 sec and stil get sharp results. - with XF18-55 I cannot go below 1/30sec So obviously the XC18-55 Stabilization is lousy . IS effectiveness is higly overestimated by fuji. Instead of 3 stops I get 1 stop advantage, at best. I can see there is some stabilization , though, because when IS is disengaged, I cannot even reach 1/30 sec. Instead, XC16-50 Ois II works as expected.
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