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Sandro_gsp last won the day on February 21 2021

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  1. I had already downloaded the files again. And I had tried again. This is what worked: I put the downloaded file inside an (old) 32GB SD card. Maybe a 128GB card (formatted exFat) is not supported for the upgrade process.
  2. I discovered there is a new firmware for X-S10 : the 2.30 version. For the first time the new firmare does not seem to work : when trying to update I receive the message : "New Firmware is Broken". Am I the only one ? Has anybody received the same message ?
  3. that's exacly my finding, without a spectrometer. In my Raw processing routine, I always have to lower the Kelvin temperature by 200 or 300K . SOmetimes even 500K !!!!
  4. >There is no such thing as wrong white balance, Not really. try this : 1 - take a picture of something outside your window, in different conditions and at different days and hours. 2 - put the pictures in your computer and compare yourself what you see. i.e. : look at the picture and look outside the window. --------------- my point is ; the fuji white balance is way too often wrong, because it's different from the reality I see. I don't say "bad" , or "unpleasant" , that would be subjective. I say : different from the reality.
  5. Currently I own an X-S10 , but in the past I had several different Fuji Apc-s cameras. Every camera showed a noticeable WB shift . I.e. in Post production I have to lower down the Kelvin temperature by 200 al least, often down by 500 , to get a natural look. The worst was the X-Pro2. Also the X-H1 had the same problem, although less blatant. Before you tell .... no ... it isn't my monitor . I have a Flickr subscription and I see a lot of pictures made by other fellows around the world. No other brand show the same WB shift (towards the yellowish area). But a lot of Fuji cameras do show a lot !!!!! To the point than I can tell if the picture has been taken by a Fuji camera just looking at the (wrong) white balance. Has anybody ever noticed this effect ? btw : no big deal .... I can live with it. I'm still an happy fuji user.
  6. ok, thanks a lot ! At least I discovered how to fix it ; using "shooting only" as Ibis method. It saves quite a lot of battery, too !!!!!
  7. do you mean the problem has been fixed in X-T4 and X-S10 but not on X-H1 ? Did you do any test ?
  8. I didn't chang the front switch ( S/C/M ) , that's for focusing: I changed the stabilization setting ( Ibis ) : from continuous to shoot-only. This wrong behaviour shows up only with my Zoom lens, not with my prime lenses. The tests I did today were shooting a tree in front of my windows , no wind at all. And I discovered that pictures taken with shoot-only are wharp, while with continuous Ibis are not. This problems is with every exposure time from 1/500 sec. down to 1/30th
  9. Lately I noticed the pictures taken with X-H1 and XF16-80 were kinda blurry. But luckily every picture taken with my primes was OK..... Of course the blurriness can be seen only enlarging the pictrures up to 100% . I was about to throw my XF16-80 zoom in the trashcan , when I had an idea : I switched the stabilization from continuous to "shoot only" Et voilà : now all pictures taken with my zoom are crisp and sharp ! Why, oh why ? Where is the problem with Ibis continuous? is it the camera ? or the zoom lens ? p.s. : both camera and lens firmware are updated.
  10. IBIS + OIS should be working toghether to get better results. Or , at least, this is what FUji claims .... But ..... has anybody ever tested it ??? I tested with XF16-80 mounted on X-E3 (no Ibis) and mounted on X-H1 ( Ois + Ibis) To me Fuji claim is simply not true : the results are exactly the same. (of course Firmware is updated everywhere). In fact the claimed stop gains are the same : 5.5 both with and without Ibis. So...... is this simply another case of marketing hype, to trick customers into buying something ?
  11. I found this lens OIS quite lousy . Very very far from the promised 4 stops. https://www.imaging-resource.com/lenses/fujinon/xf-18-55mm-f2.8-4-r-lm-ois/image-stabilization-test/ Without Ois you need 1/125th sec for a 50mm lens, right ? Ok, I agree. Then 1 stop gain means 1/60th .... 2 stop gain would mean 1/30th .... 3 stops 1/15th .... 4 stops 1/8th . Right ? Well ..... forget it ! All the promised Fuji stop gains are blatantly overstated ! Particularly with the XF18-55 lens the ois gain is quite limited in reality. You can count on 1stop (always) , 2stops (shooting with care), 3 stops (seldom) .
  12. I have been interested in macro since the Fuji X-line came out. I bought the (in)famous XF60, and although it's crazy sharp for portraits, I've never been satisfied with the close-up it produces. About 1 year ago I sold it. Over the years I also bought the MCEX-11 , the MCEX-16, and the Raynox 150 and 250. Now I get satisfactory results using my X-H1 and the XF50 and XF90 lenses. I can confirm : prime lenses are much more suited to be used both with extension tubes and Raynox lenses. With the XF90 I can reach the following magnifications (with good results) : Lens only Mcex-11 Mcex-16 raynox150 raynox250 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.7 1.0 the best combinations are with Mcex-16 and with raynox150, for the ease of focus and the Dof .
  13. N.B : I switch off sharpening and noise reduction because I use Neatimage plug-in in Photoshop.
  14. these pages are only for DNG converter : I don't see mentioned Camera Raw since 2012 (camera Raw 7.1) . The question is : can Camera raw be downloaded somewhere from Adobe web site ? Where exactly ?
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