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  1. I just got another 70-300 after some time. Initially I bought one when it came out but I sold it after a short time. I noticed that when I move this one, putting it upside down just to make an example, there's a clunky sound inside, probably the lens groups or something else moving. I'm asking because I don't remember if also the other lens I had made the sound as well. Do you have the same?
  2. Gentlemen, I suggest you not to use bell collars. Let's imagine every time you move you have this "ding ding" in your ears.
  3. Must be the firmware. I have this lens and the 33, which are great btw, and had a problem with the latter. I tried to update to the latest version, the problem is there are two, a white silk screen and a golden something. Once the updated was done, the lens started to focus continously. I deleted all the updates and installed one of the two, I don't remember which one. Then the lens worked perfectly. The problem is the Viltrox customer care doesn't exist. I tried to contact them to know the difference between the two updates, but nobody ever replied.
  4. Well, try two or more samples of a lens is one thing, two or three samples of a car or even more a boat or a plane is something completely different. In fact Optical Limits (aka Photozone.de) tests more samples of the same lens. I agree with you on the fact that QC should be much, much better. Probably the stuff made in Japan have a higher QC then the ones made in China, although this shouldn't happen. But this is the proper reason why testing one single piece means almost nothing, or really close to.
  5. That should be a commandment. Otherwise each test should be taken with huge reservations
  6. Hello Bruce, I know the database in Pentax forum, it's quite good. The only advice is take every lens review with a pinch of salt, since no two lenses of the same type are the same.
  7. 16-55 heavier and no OIS, constant aperture. 18-55 lighter, IOS and variable aperture I owned both and kept the 18-55. The quality of the 18-55 is highly superior to the 16-80 as the longer is the focal lenght, the more complicated is to keep a high level quality.
  8. It should work without problems via the sync terminal. Only in manual, though. Just check the voltage on the hot shoe
  9. Yep, great lenses. One thing, Cillian: if you have the chance, try more samples of the same lens because they're all different. Being assembled by hand, they have little tiny differences.
  10. Hi Cillian. Of the lenses you listed above, the 16-55 and 18-55 are the best. However the first it's f/2.8 along all the focals while the second it's f/4 at the longest. But it has the OIS which the 16-55 lacks of. The difference between the two is not enormous but the 18-55 is sensibly cheaper. Don't put your attention on the words "kit lens", it doesn't mean anything. If you could (and want) to buy a couple lenses, I'd go for the 18-55 and 55-200 and you'll cover basically all focals.
  11. In the manual they mention not to use an aftermarket flash that applies over 300V to the mount on the camera. Using a cable you probably have to check the same.
  12. The problem with the russian lenses is the qc. Also, they often store them inside a drawer. There are several sellers on the bay posting pics and you can check it out. However it doesn't mean that a ding, a scratch, affect the final result. I have a Tair 133 that's great. It has a deep scratch on the rear lens, but on the pic you don't see anything. One thing is be careful if you decide to open the lens, because the metal of screws on the barrel is very soft. You risk to ruin them with the screwdriver.
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