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lleo

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Everything posted by lleo

  1. I just got another 70-300 after some time. Initially I bought one when it came out but I sold it after a short time. I noticed that when I move this one, putting it upside down just to make an example, there's a clunky sound inside, probably the lens groups or something else moving. I'm asking because I don't remember if also the other lens I had made the sound as well. Do you have the same?
  2. Gentlemen, I suggest you not to use bell collars. Let's imagine every time you move you have this "ding ding" in your ears.
  3. Must be the firmware. I have this lens and the 33, which are great btw, and had a problem with the latter. I tried to update to the latest version, the problem is there are two, a white silk screen and a golden something. Once the updated was done, the lens started to focus continously. I deleted all the updates and installed one of the two, I don't remember which one. Then the lens worked perfectly. The problem is the Viltrox customer care doesn't exist. I tried to contact them to know the difference between the two updates, but nobody ever replied.
  4. Well, try two or more samples of a lens is one thing, two or three samples of a car or even more a boat or a plane is something completely different. In fact Optical Limits (aka Photozone.de) tests more samples of the same lens. I agree with you on the fact that QC should be much, much better. Probably the stuff made in Japan have a higher QC then the ones made in China, although this shouldn't happen. But this is the proper reason why testing one single piece means almost nothing, or really close to.
  5. That should be a commandment. Otherwise each test should be taken with huge reservations
  6. Hello Bruce, I know the database in Pentax forum, it's quite good. The only advice is take every lens review with a pinch of salt, since no two lenses of the same type are the same.
  7. 16-55 heavier and no OIS, constant aperture. 18-55 lighter, IOS and variable aperture I owned both and kept the 18-55. The quality of the 18-55 is highly superior to the 16-80 as the longer is the focal lenght, the more complicated is to keep a high level quality.
  8. It should work without problems via the sync terminal. Only in manual, though. Just check the voltage on the hot shoe
  9. Yep, great lenses. One thing, Cillian: if you have the chance, try more samples of the same lens because they're all different. Being assembled by hand, they have little tiny differences.
  10. Hi Cillian. Of the lenses you listed above, the 16-55 and 18-55 are the best. However the first it's f/2.8 along all the focals while the second it's f/4 at the longest. But it has the OIS which the 16-55 lacks of. The difference between the two is not enormous but the 18-55 is sensibly cheaper. Don't put your attention on the words "kit lens", it doesn't mean anything. If you could (and want) to buy a couple lenses, I'd go for the 18-55 and 55-200 and you'll cover basically all focals.
  11. In the manual they mention not to use an aftermarket flash that applies over 300V to the mount on the camera. Using a cable you probably have to check the same.
  12. The problem with the russian lenses is the qc. Also, they often store them inside a drawer. There are several sellers on the bay posting pics and you can check it out. However it doesn't mean that a ding, a scratch, affect the final result. I have a Tair 133 that's great. It has a deep scratch on the rear lens, but on the pic you don't see anything. One thing is be careful if you decide to open the lens, because the metal of screws on the barrel is very soft. You risk to ruin them with the screwdriver.
  13. lleo

    16-80 f/4

    Correct. Nowadays the fashions going on are three: sharpness, megapixels and bokeh. All of the three mean nothing, or so, about how good is a photo.
  14. Hello and welcome. After having tried several, I ended up using RawTherapee (I'm on Linux).
  15. lleo

    16-80 f/4

    David, the first thing I tell my guests when I do classes, it's not to trust what they read on the net. It's plenty of bullshit. Internet is maybe the most democratic tool, however the other side of the medal it's it allows people who don't have any clue to have their mouths speak. Or better, their fingers write. Also. Not two lenses are the same, having the chance to do it, it's always good to try at least two samples of the lens one wants to buy. Having said so and keeping in mind all the variations happening when you post a pic online, that seems to be a pretty good lens.
  16. The i40 has the "hidden" HSS function in manual mode. If I remember well, I've read somewhere that with the update this function disappear.
  17. lleo

    s

    I'd go for the 35 only because the 23 it's a closer focal to the 16. Anyways you should go to the shop with your camera and try both before to decide.
  18. If you have the chance, try two samples. There's no one lens like the other
  19. Yep, expecially the last one. Island muss wunderschön sein
  20. Being made in Japan is quite good, though the price won't drop as quickly as for the other models. Actually the X-Pro 2 is the model that maintains the price better and longer than all other Fujis. Whatever the guys at Fuji want to put on the model it's fine with me. However a silver model would be appreciated.
  21. Same construction, different results. Here it is: https://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/5770-35mm-comparison/ Saying that the f/2 is superior to the f/1,4 it means lying. Anyways, this particular sample. Another one might be better. Lenses are assembled by hand and not two are identical. That's why I always compare two or more, if available at the shop, before to buy it. I've been doing this through the last... probably 30 years or more. And it always worked. By the way, in the new series it seems that the better ones are the 23 and the 50. The 35 is the weaker one.
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