milandro

Has anyone tried to adapt a ( Leitz) slide projection lens to Fuji X? Ad if you did, how did you do it? I am toying with the idea of adapting one of these lenses, a Leitz Elmaron f2.8 50mm to my camera. to do this one needs an helicoid macro adapter( front M42 to Fuji).

well, we shall, quite literally, see OP speaks about enlarging but leaving the whole of the image visible not showing a portion

No, the EVF is physically different and larger in the X T1-2 hence the hump, OP speaks about X pro 2

OP wants a firmware to address this and that is not possible. The only hardware possibility is the provided dioptric correction, you can also look though your spectacles (I do both) but, as OP remarks, then you see a smaller image.

Yes, I have, with appropriate measures like for example using a monopod , but you may mean events in total darkness. Recently I went to a birthday party where the official photographer was shooting, with a Nikon, in near total darkness or where there was no light to speak of. There was no prohibition to use a flash. Analogically, I’ve never shot a portrait any higher than 400ASA and Digitally, I think that I’ve shot one portrait at 1600ISO. Anyway, like for the IBIS thing, this seems to be a big deal for some and not for others. I suppose that it simply mean that fuji’s are not for everyone. If you like them you do, if you don’t you don’t.

So the X-A10 appears to be the “ New” camera that was never rumored about before to be introduced in the latter part of 2016. The reason why it wasn’t rumored was probably the fact that there would have been few prepared to listen. You know what they say: “ if a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound?" After all this appears to be just a tuned sown version of the X-A3 which is likely to be as close as identical to what the X-A2 was. 16Mp and no touch screen, flip up LCD for the indispensable selfie shooters among us! Wow! The world was holding its breath for such a camera. Of course, if anything, this will be a commercial success in Thailand ( Where the X-A1 and 2 sold well) and where people might be seeking a cheaper camera than the X-A3 ( which, over here in the NL costs in Kit a respectable €649). This camera too will be probably sold with the 16-50 and maybe the 50-230. I don’t think that there would be many sold in the Western part of the world because it will be, as Yogi Berra said, Deja Vu all over again!

I think that anything might have malfunctioned and it can be as simple as an obscure and apparently innocent and incredibly insignificant electronic component failing somewhere ( no one can look into these things before they happen). Since this is not something that many have reported, I think that you have to accept the fact that it has happened to you but it could have happened to anyone, anytime. See if Fuji UK or the shop where you bought it can give you a deal on a old stock camera rather than repairing this one. Spending £140 on a camera that has seen many shots already it is probably not so wise. If you've used this camera a lot, this copy of yours might have already reached the maximum amount of activations of the shutter before its natural failing, activations which can be anything between 100.000 to 200.000. It is not uncommon for wedding photographers to shoot on continuous sooting. Personally, I don’t understand people whom shoot several dozens of shots for each situation... but there are such people especially in the wedding photography business. This habit is not only accounting for an incredible amount of extra work to sieve through all those nearly identical sots, but wears out your shutter which, in digital cameras WILL fail after a number of actuations. (I’ve never had a shutter fail and one Pentax ES I had with my business partner in our studio had shot surely way more than one million shots) Short to resorting to sorcery or maybe go on a pilgrimage on foot, to the Fuji mountain, which is a popular pilgrimage among Japanese Buddhists with historical ancient roots, I don’t think there is much more that you could do that you haven’t done already.

The fact of the matter is that Fuji has chosen a path that is not compatible with Internal Stabilization and that also optical stabilization is offered ( most probably to limit the size of the lenses) only to some lenses and not others. I understand that this has to do with fundamental choices made when the system was created. Since they are not going to re-project the bayonet we are not going to get internal stabilization. Also they won’t re create all the lenses which came without Optical stabilization. This being the situation, we will have to deal with it. The way we will deal with it is, the way I see it, going on a path which understands and uses limitations in a positive way. Like in many martial arts, instead of fighting your way through a more powerful opponent, you use his force against it. It is not the box, but the holder of the box. Old boxe’s holders, even without any stabilization, took pictures in low light. Some were less than perfect. Life is tough.

Never had an error with this lens on X-E1, X-E2, X-T1. Updating the software, if you have the older version, is pointless. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/3240-latest-firmware-update-for-xc-50-230-lens/

Well, Fuji have told us that they won’t do it, so, unless they come up with “ System Y” or System Z”, System X won’t have any ISIS. But no doubt, some would go for other systems and some, more old fashioned like me, won’t bother. I just had a look between some of the most iconic ( quite literally so) images of the 19th and 20th century, many undoubtedly affected by motion blur and many other “ defects”, yet, despite blur ( and some not all that well focused too) they are and remain forever immortal pictures all the same. Methinks...It’s not the box, it is the one whom holds the box. But I suppose that that is an old fashioned view, as I indeed am.

You’e most certainly welcome. OIS and IBIS are recent inventions for people like me who started over 40 years ago. True, digital photography is way more sensitive to motion blur that analog photography was, but I entirely agree with Rkphoto, we’ve managed to shoot pictures way before any of these systems showed up (and even before it was feasible to shoot at very 3200 ISO without having grain as big as 000 shotgun pellets ), and I have news, despite life being tough, we did it all the same, that means we found a way to do it or around it. So, yes, we dealt with it, back then, albeit within the limitations that our technology offered us and so, I think, we can still do today. Fuji told us they won’t produce IBIS and only few lenses will ever be equipped with OIS. Tough luck!

life is tough

I am afraid that you’ve reached the point that you need to bring this to a fuji lab and have them look at it. Obviously you’ve gone over and above any possible reset that you could do at home. There is nothing more that you can do.

for next time snowsteps a few €, $ or £

Fuji doesn’t have and apparently will never have IBIS ( In Body Image Stabilization) few lenses have OIS ( Optical Image Stabilization)

yes, the layman version is: hot water tends irreparably to become cold

The mouse which was born from mount Fuji has hit the shops here too. Now you can buy this camera at (€549) approximately twice as much as the possible price that you could pay for a proper but discontinued camera such as the X-E2 ( I’ve sold mine for €300) or a X Pro 1 or X-E1. But , hey!... Those two are cameras to take proper pictures of people and things, while this is a camera to take bad pictures of yourself! Oh! I forgot, 24Mp...essential for your huge selfies who no one is ever going to print!

Have you checked the EVF/LCD options? You can select or deselect things to show or not. Select [DISP. CUSTOM SETTING] in the shooting menu. Highlight [OVF] or [EVF/LCD] and press [MENU/OK]. Highlight items and press [MENU/OK] to select or deselect. Selected items are indicated by a check mark. [FRAMING GUIDELINE] [ELECTRONIC LEVEL] [AF DISTANCE INDICATOR] [MF DISTANCE INDICATOR] [HISTOGRAM] [APERTURE/S-SPEED/ISO] [EXP. COMPENSATION] [PHOTOMETRY] [FLASH] [WHITE BALANCE] [FILM SIMULATION] [DYNAMIC RANGE] [FRAMES REMAINING] [iMAGE SIZE/QUALITY] [MOVIE MODE & REC. TIME] [bATTERY LEVEL]

plenty of stuff https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=x+pro2+firmware+update+

Not quite, 592a9f78471cb87af24d58a7c20a123b.jpg david-baileyLinhoff-300x228.jpg

Pardon me if I ask: “ Why don’t you just use the dioptric correction provided by Fuji and forget the glasses?”. That’s why the dioptric correction it is there ( in any camera featuring it). Because they know that wearing glasses will reduce view, so they provide you with the means to not wear glasses while you are taking pictures. Extra magnification however is more an hardware than a software matter, so, don’t hold your breath waiting for a firmware which would augments magnification. I really don’t think it is possible to change the magnification by software, unless you change resolution and show only part of the image ( which will be a very myopic thing to do, since they did so much to increase it!). You cannot even make the EVF bigger because otherwise the camera size will grow larger then a MF and the point of having a small sensor in a small camera would be even more defeated than it is now already being the X-Pro 2 a rather large camera with a small sensor. http://fujifilm-x.com/it/x-stories/advanced-hybrid-multi-viewfinder-of-x-pro2-part2/ “...The X-Pro2 saw a major advancement from X-Pro1 in all aspect. Needless to say, the X-Pro2's Hybrid Multi Viewfinder is no exception. It underwent an extensive review and was built with a new design. The optical unit, electronic device, mechanical construction and etc. all now have new parts. Among them, the advancement of the electronic device is quite remarkable. Thanks to the X Trans CMOS III and X Processor Pro, we can now fully utilize the the high performance of the LCD panel. The improvement in resolution, frame rate, and display response are huge. Just a few years back, people debated whether EVF will ever replace OVF. If you look into the X-Pro2's EVF, then you will know that we are now in a different age. There is a dilemma however. The optical design becomes more challenging with the advancement of the LCD panel. With the ability to display higher resolution, the optical performance also needs to be improved. It is the same logic as a lens would become obsolete with the advancement in sensor's ability to achieve higher resolution. It is easier for the lens to keep up with the high resolution sensor. There is always a way to make higher performance lens by making the lens barrel bigger. But we cannot do the same for the finder. It has to fit within the camera body size. So the size should remain the same, but the resolution should become higher, and there shouldn't be a distortion. To achieve this, we review and redesign the optical unit. To be specific, we achieved it by replacing the glass material of the half prism with even higher high refractive index and by adding an aspherical lens to the eyepiece. And to go with the change, lens construction has also been renewed for the objective lens and LCD panel...."

fortune smiles to some and laughs at others

I have had an Helios until not long ago. There are several posts on this board about my experiences with that lens and several adapters. I maybe using another one at some stage but I would have preferred to use a more specific lens for this effect ( The reason why I’ve stated this thread) because the 58 Petzval bokeh control is not the same as a Helios / Still it would be nice to see pictures made by members here with any or all these lenses. Anyway, I pulled the trigger on a Lens Turbo II adapter for Canon lenses at the front and Fuji FX at the back, so now I am going to buy the Twist 60 in the Canon version. The weight issues with the Petzval 58 and the need to use that lens too with a focal reducer to make good use of the swirl bokeh convinced me. I still would like to see if anyone uses these things. Apparently this forum doesn’t have too many people who are into these things.

Both cameras (X-T1 and X-T2) have an electronic shutte which warks exactly the same for still photography ( not for video but that is different thing), in what way is the electronic shutter of the X-T2 better the than the one on X-T1 or X-E2 or X-T10 or X-E2s?

If she has both Nikon and Fuji it is only natural that she would also own a focal reducer. I’ve asked anyway, we shall see what she answers. It is, in any case, a very nice effect. If I could find a secondhand Twist 60 and a secondhand focal reducer this would be a no brainer but if I need to buy both new it would cost me just a couple of € shy of €500. Which is not bad but a lot of money to use it occasionally. Remember the swirl is only visible if you chose the background favorably. If you put your subject against anything without a pattern (like the omnipresent trees or leaves in the background or a brick wall) this would be hardly noticeable. Also the background has to be sufficiently far (and the subject close) to be blurred in such a way that the effect becomes very evident. What I am trying to say is that this is a special interest lens which produces one effect and one effect alone only under certain circumstances which if repeated too often could rapidly get boring. Another possibility to achieve the Petzval effect with a proper portrait lens would be, for me, the use of a Helios 40 85mm f1.5 but again, this lens ain’t cheap. We are talking about around €400 ( if I buy in Europe, there are some Russian sellers who offer them for less but I don’t want to buy outside the EU because of the premium shipping price, insurance, risks, VAT and handling through customs chargers) and then I could use my focal reducer M42 to Fx, achieving a sufficient swirl. Of course this very soft lens is a very different arrangement than the twist 60 would be. The Helios 40 is extremely heavy and bulky.