milandro

As I understand it, there is no way to test any Fuji lens without the in-camera correction because you can only test the lens on a fuji camera that corrects the lens ...automatically. There is no way to disconnect it.

I suppose that ti will be fixed next time there is a firmware update

well, any digital image will look somewhat different depending on the software AND the hardware that you use, as discussed elsewhere one can only get a picture in the EVF and LCD to represent as close as possible what the histogram of the image tells you but it will always be an approximation. This is another thread with virtually the same question as this (thread duplication is very common) http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/4084-fuji-xt2-wysiwyg-v-evf/ Even on the X-T1 many have complained that the picture doesn’t actually represent the image that they see on their computer. I find that

And you’ve set the LCD and EVF contrast, brightness and profile in the exact same way in both cameras?

I never put my dynamic range in Auto, but it might very well be that the two functions are mutually exclusive. Fuji has many such functions which work in this mutually exclusive ways, as many whom have tried the Electronic Shutter have discovered. As for coming to terms with dynamic Range, try this https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/dynamic-range-explained

my X-T1 works like this with the 18-55 and the 60mm. According to many sources on line and the X-T2 manual, it works the same as my camera ( Page 6, Page 60 ). http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2/x-t2_omw_en_s_f.pdf

i have shadows +1 and highlights -2

In my experience one of the key ways to get in your electronic viewfinder or your liquid crystal display to show an image as close as the one that you will get on your computer is to tune DOWN the EVF and LCD luminosity. 9 I have it on -1 the EVF and on 0 the LCD) Of course you need to enable the function preview picture too.

the only way to do this is to put the camera on program ( A on the lens and A on the camera) L'Shana Tova , have a sweet and peaceful year

Mine has not come off in 3 years. Another friend 2 years and counting. Some other folks have had it come off straight away but the majority (obviously) have never complained about this. It is a freak occurrence together with the bulging door (also never had any problem) which has involved some people only. So, in most cases, they did get it right the first time. I hope yours will be safe too.

Well, it is not so that the skin of all X-T1 has been peeling off. Has yours?

could it be that you have messed around ( or maybe that you’ve never set it up) with the custom settings of the screens? Page 216 of the manual. 1 In shooting mode, press DISP/BACK until standard indicators are displayed. 2 Press MENU/OK and select DSCREEN SETTING > DISP. CUSTOM SETTING in the D (SET UP) tab. 3 Highlight items and press MENU/OK to select or deselect. Select or deselct what you want the displays to show.

youtube has plenty of films shot with any kind of lens from independent film-makers ( and Fuji sponsored ones too) under almost any kind of conditions. You are way more likely to find your answers there. Good luck!

the camera has been out for just a few weeks ...give them time and the same people who made the housing for the X-T1 will make the housings for the X-T2, unlike Fuji (which doesn’t make housings) they need the physical camera which has still to become available for a lot of people out there!

Mold is an infection and it comes back because fungus, yeasts and things like these are the toughest organisms on earth, able to stay dormant when things are dad and to come back as soon as conditions allow it.

unfortunately this less than smart disguise is very common ( and often spoken about on fora) and has no logic other than the two lame explanations that ave above

Upgrades will only come if they are part of a marketing strategy which has been probably outlined months ago at Fuji. At the moment this camera hasn’t YET been discontinued. Until they come up with the replacement for the X-T10, this is now the best 16Mp in the range. After they have introduced the X-A3 ( yes with a different sensor) which also sports 24Mp ( to print really large selfies, because this camera was admittedly made to produce precisely that!), it is very possible that there will soon be a X-E3 or X-T20, but until then, there isn’t much for those who aren’t prepared to spend the many shekels that the X-Pro 2 and X-T2 cost. There will be a few, like me, who aren’t jumping on the 24Mp bandwagon, and some who simply don’t have the cash to buy one of the two top cameras of the system. So, maybe, just maybe, they will keep the X-T1 going for a while longer (at least until they have parts and sensors available) to fill this niche.

well, that’s a commendable example of fujilove but even some models of Fuji were deliberately left non-upgraded while others did get a lot of upgrades. They were all Fuji and were all bought by Fuji clients but some got flack and some got goodies.

I am old enough to remember speed graphics ( an other cameras too) which had both http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/features.html “....The name "Speed" in Speed Graphic comes from the 1/1000s shutter speed offered by its focal-plane shutter. The Graflex focal-plane shutter is the essence of simplicity -- a single long curtain of rubberized fabric with a number of slits. The Anniversary and Pre-Anniversary models are have a somewhat confusing control system, but in the Pacemaker series, there is only a high/low switch, and the speeds read out directly in a window. The high/low speed control on the Pacemakers engage a very simple and reliable governor. There are four slits in the curtain, one for 1/1000 & 1/500 sec, another for 1/250 & 1/125, another for 1/60 & 1/30 sec and a final one for TIME. The curtain is tensioned by what is essentially a window blind type spring.... and the tension is easy to adjust without much disassembly. They can be easily adjusted to within 1/4 stop. The Crown Graphic, Century Graphic, Super Graphic, and Super Speed Graphic models all lack the focal plane shutter (though the Super Speed Graphic does have a 1/1000s between-the-lens shutter.) In a genuine Speed Graphic the focal plane shutter is the only part that might be trouble, but it is reliable and there are shops dedicated to fixing them. At worst, you can disregard a non-functional rear shutter on a Speed Graphic. It doesn't cost you anything but a slightly thicker case and a little weight. The Speed Graphic is slightly heavier and thicker than the similar Crown Graphic. The 2 3/8" minimum film-to-flange distance required by the focal plane shutter on a Speed Graphic precludes the use of 65mm and wider-angle lenses, whereas a Crown Graphic is able to use a 47mm WA lens. Many modern wide-angle lenses in the 47mm-65mm range can cover 4x5", but classic lenses this wide were designed to cover 2-1/4 x 3-1/4, so they should be used with the 2x3" Graphics or with appropriate roll-film backs on 4x5" Graphics. The focal plane shutters operate as a curtain with different sized openings, and can be set to two speeds with three different openings, producing speeds of 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, and 1/1000. (As for lenses with internal shutters, most will have speeds up to 1/400 or 1/500, while the Graflex-1000 goes to 1/1000 seconds, there are some some older ones only go as high as 1/200.) Be careful to keep track of whether the curtain is open or closed, as mis-use of the focal plane shutter will keep film from being exposed (if you're using a lens shutter), and leaving the curtain open (such as for focusing) will fog film. An advantage of having a focal plane shutter is that you can also use barrel lenses (lenses mounted without shutters). A 15" (380mm) Graflex Optar Telephoto, in a barrel mount is much less expensive (~$90) than the equivalent in a shutter, which seem to go for $250-300. Also, many vintage (1920-30's) soft focus portrait lenses are only available in barrel. Use of a slow speed focal plane shutter should produce noticeable "lean" when you pan to follow moving objects. Are the large focal plane shutters accurate? I checked mine out. 1/1000 sec is dead on. Your average modern SLR it is probably no more accurate...."

well, they did for the X-E2 which was updated (only recently) to system 4 after a very long time of doubts about it and when it was already replaced by the X-E2S. Fuji’s grace works in mysterious ways.

One of the great advantages of gaffer tape (for whichever use, even this less than smart “ camouflage”...) is the fact that you don’t need scissors to cut it both widthwise and lengthwise. It has just canvas and you rip it in the shape that you need.

well, compared to the X-Pro 1, many more cameras received a lot more kaizen ( or a lot less like the X-100 series...). I too don’t think that there will be anything to come other than lens and flash software.

Ok, I am not quite sure whether the X-t1 has been discontinued...or not? Perhaps just not yet, as it appears to have already happened to the X-T10, X100T, X-E2 But we must be very nearly there. http://www.fujirumors.com/fujifilm-x100t-discontinued-fujifilm-x100f-coming/ http://www.fujirumors.com/fujifilm-x-t10-discontinued-well-x-e2/ So, are we going to see anymore upgrades and which are the possible upgrades which we might expect to see since a lot of what it has been offered out there is either hardware determined or it is simply making the camera suitable for a new lens. In other words there will be something to make the X-t1 suitable for using with lenses and flashes that are not yet there but, as it is, it will most probably stay. Or does the team of Patrick & Andreas know any better?

you know... it is not the size, is what you do with it...

“...One of the most significant differences between gaffer tape and duct tape is that only the former can be removed cleanly. This is because gaffer tape does not use a natural rubber adhesive; it rather uses a synthetic adhesive that is petroleum based. Duct tape, on the other hand, does not remove cleanly and as mentioned above, a certain duct tape is especially prepared to be like gaffer tape so that it can be removed cleanly" http://www.differencebetween.net/object/difference-between-gaffer-tape-and-duct-tape/ When I was at photography college ( Istituto Europeo di Design of Milan) we were not allowed to use anything (including paper masking tape) other than proper gaffer tape ( which leaves no mark) because anything else ( they provided us with gaffer to make sure you wouldn’t use “ alternative” an) would have left marks (and even take away paint) from the various surfaces. A gaffer is someone who works in film production and the gaffer tape is specially made to be used on film and photographic equipment.