milandro

I am happy that a bit of sanity begins to trickle about this matter. Last time I dared questioning this matter-of-fact attitude towards bigger-is-better I was met with a salvo of bitter comments by nay-sayers. For the most part and for most photographers there is no actual difference in printing capabilities given by a 24Mp compared to a 16Mp, and that is assuming that ayone would actually print the pictures... since we know that the majority of photographers are only viewing their images on screen! The cropping argument also makes me feel very strange uneasy about it. Yes, it is true that even some great photographers have had second thoughts about their images, as shown here by these incredibly famous shots by Arnold Newman who shot with large format cameras (while the final prints are relatively small). But if this was very true and commonplace in the time of large format analog photography, when shooting was a different experience, it became less true in the time of small format slides photography and I believe it is even less true now with digital photography. But yes, if you want to make huge prints out of a small detail from your sensor... ... then you may be probably ever so slightly better off ( with a stress on ever) with a 24Mp than you are with 16Mp. But then why not going all the way and buy a medium format digital camera? But even the Fuji medium format to come would allow you only 50Mp which if you compare it to the kind of cropping done by Newman for the Picasso portrait will still be less than 12Mp. Alternatively, you might want to shoot as most people did when producing 35mm slides. Framing the subject as much as possible with the final image ” cropped in-camera”. I think this article about the book on the Magnum contact sheets might be illuminating http://erickimphotography.com/blog/2012/10/03/10-things-street-photographers-can-learn-from-magnum-contact-sheets/

I don’t understand the nature of your problems. the pictures seem to be of good quality. I can’t understand why the camera would precisely focus on the glasses ( shot at the focal length of 46.3mm) and not on the watch but but maybe you were attempting to focus ( at an odd 52.7mm ) a focal length at a distance closer than the minimum 40cm? I would take a look at the settings of your camera which might explain certain things not to your liking, but if you still don’t like it maybe fuji cameras are not for you.

Thanks for your consideration, but curiously , also having had extensive experience with scanning, I embarked in this journey precisely because I find the use of a scanner way more time consuming than holding a slide in front of a camera. As I write in my first post: “...I am not intersted in scanners, it takes too long..."

after some experiments I have decided to go further with the camera mounted on a copy stand and a lightbox as a light source and with my 60mm macro and a +1 dioptrics lens ( +2 is too much), you still have some cropping ( and cleaning ) to do but the results are better than anything else that I’ve tried. The Macro bellows would have been an option but it all became very complicated at some point and I really am looking for simplicity.

I was just doing some experiments with my X-T1 and using the 60 macro in manual mode. When the camera switches off the lens retracts BUT when you switch it back on it goes to the exact same place where it was before.

no need to post in the gallery best that you can do is post them onto one of the many image hosting sites and then copy the link after clicking on the icon that looks like a polaroid print

if you look at some pictures by Henri Cartier-Bresson, especially the first ones, they are not particularly or at all sharp but they all get to your soul.

well, you can move the focussing around or point the center to the place where you intend to focus and then quickly recompose. Keep trying, well done.

some people can be told “ no” when they ask you to take the camera for a spin. I like pampering things and even myself.

I don’t share any of your opinions about the 10-24. My experience and yours diverge so much that it would be pointless at this point to enter a diatribe about this lens in a thread dedicated to another lens. We shall see if the lens to come will please you.

Thanks, but the “ infamous” effect is the principal reason-why most people buy these lenses, of which other optical characteristics are hardly such to be able to compete with modern lenses.

I don’t see how it could affect the weather resistance since there is nothing (in the manner of a seal) to prevent humidity to penetrate under the hot shoe cover.

and “ if you’ve got it, flaunt it!"

moreover... de gustibus non est disputandum

in May this year we were told that this lens might come but in any case nowhere soon. So give up your hopes to see it at the photokina. http://www.fujirumors.com/?s=8-16 I don’t know why your 10-24 drives you insane, I had a very pleasant experience with it. Whatever drives you insane with it, I suspect, won’t improve by buying an even shorter zoom lens. In my opinion, having had a 10-24mm for more than a year, I am not so quite sure of what would a 8-16 really add to that experience and I can only think that that option would come at some detriment of the 10-24 ( which is by the way an outstanding lens) sales. Fuji is duplicating many lenses now, often with the rationale of offering smaller lenses to be used on the optical viewfinder line ( the X pro) or adding the weather resistance which few really ever test by photographing in pouring rain. The more you segment the market the more you compete with yourself. I sold my 10-24 because I was mostly using it only on the wide end ( and because i got a 18-55 which I didn’t have in the beginning) and made enough money to buy a 8mm fish eye and a 12mm non fish eye by Samyang, both outstanding lenses which can hold their own, anytime, against Fuji lenses. Of course the fisheye is not the same thing as a non fisheye wideangle and the 12mm is a little bit less wide than a 10mm, but at this end of the lens spectrum we are talking of minute differences between focal lenses. Besides I’ve yet to find the need to have an autofocus lens when it comes to a lens that offer total sharpness at f8. Achieving any degree of focus separation by selective focussing of extremely close up subject is of no interest to me and if I were ever to want to do that I wouldn’t use a wideangle although that is perfectly possible and even desirable in some very limited case.

I suppose there is a mix of being decorative and functional. A leather halfcase, while probably offering some extra eye candy, provides protection to the camera and its rubber coating which, others, have complained about.

there is nothing wrong with the X pro 1 If there is (or was) nothing wrong for so many people... ( you draw your conclusions). http://www.littlebigtravelingcamera.com/?p=6259 http://www.markboltonphotography.co.uk/fuji-x-pro1-camera-test/ http://macleancomms.blogspot.nl/2014/01/review-three-months-with-fujifilm-x-pro1.html http://www.fujifilm.com.au/blogs/digital-photography/bid/183953/Testing-the-Fujifilm-X-Pro-1-in-the-Studio-Guest-Post-by-Jack-Salzke

yes, and to some extent it is (what a pun) immaterial whether it is leather or not. The fuji halfcase is also sold as genuine leather case ( I had one for my X-E1) but that leather is certainly very thin and possibly also coupled to some base material for strength. The inside of the case is certainly some synthetic cloth. Personally, I prefer thicker and softer leather compared to the Fuji original halfcases. It would be nice to marry an halfcase to a set of L plates because I use the camera on a stand and I truly loathe to remove the halfcase and then mount a L plate (small plates are in the way of the battery if you need to change it and you know Murphy’s law!)

nor would I complain and leather is not very expensive either, it is labour that makes up most of the cost.

coupled leather has leather and has a pu base read the link that I gave above.

looks very nice, if I didn’t use a grip with a arca mount I would have certainly considered that.

Leather smell can be added and texture embossed, believe me, most people will never recognize it. This particular example looks like Bicast PU Leather, it is a technique much used these days. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicast_leather This is PU Don’t delude yourself, it is almost impossible to detect. http://www.shoe-materials.com/shoe-leather/53-pu-shoe-leather.html PU-Bonded-Leather-Abpbf0012-04-Dry-Emboss-.jpg

I wonder if there is a perfect lens for anyone who is going to Morocco! I suppose that there will be many lenses chosen from different people all with good intentions, which, as we know, for some pave the road to hell. Moroccan people, by the way, do not dislike being photographed but unfortunately SOME are, like in many countries, used to tourists pay for taking pictures, and might be pushy towads that end... but there are countless of examples of Moroccan shots where people aren’t sniped but just shot as you would in many other places in the world. Just Look at this! http://www.scoop.it/t/fujifilm-x-pro1-x-e1-x100s?q=morocco incidentally, these will give you an idea of what to carry with you. If it were me I would carry a 16-55 and a 55-230 ( and rarely use it) , but that’s me.

Still, I don’t seem to have the same problem. MY X-T1 stays focussed on the same place until I depress the shutter button and then stays there until I point it somewhere lese and depress the shutter button again, in the meantime stays exactly where it was before. My camera doesn’t refocus between shots. Of that, I am absolutely certain. I am doing this as I type ( well just before).

Patrick FR wrote..... 1) Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot in CL or CH tracking, if ES only (electronic shutter) or MS+ES is enabled. Shooting fast-moving subjects with the ES doesn’t really make sense (rolling shutter effect). 2) Turn Off Face Detection! If you have Face Detection put to ON, the camera will focus only with CDAF. The faster Phase Detection AF (PDAF) works only if Face Detection is disabled. 3) High Performance Mode ON: many don’t even know that this features exists, like Calipedro here. It’s definitely worth to sacrifice a bit of battery life. Fuji should put this feature ON as standard. 4) Keep you subject in the center: Phase detection pixels are located in the center of the sensor. Keep your subject in the center and PDAF will give you a faster AF. 5) Use all Phase Detection Pixels with Zone AF 5×3: To take advantage of all the phase detection pixels, set you Zone AF box to 5×3 and place it in the center of the frame. Within this 5×3 box tracking will be very smooth… at least that’s my experience with my crazy dog. 6) Increase the size of the AF-box: If you use Single Point AF, increase the size of the AF-box as much as possible. 7) PRE-AF: The camera will continuously adjust focus, even if the shutter is not pressed (of half pressed). This can help to get the first shot in focus quicker. Downside: more battery drain. 8) LENS FIRMWARE: make absolutely sure that the lens is updated to the latest firmware version. 9) Different Lens, Different results: According to the lens you use, the AF-improvement will be more or less (or not) visible. For example, I was very happy with the improvement of my 55-200, but I can’t really say if the 18-55 or 14 has become faster. 10) The learning curve: Practice and get used to the new features. See what works best in which situation 11) Let Rico study for you. Rumors has it, that Rico will update his X-T1 book and tell us how to make the best out of our new Fuji X-T1 FW 4. Once it’s out, all we have to do is to read his updated book. So, do you have more tips? Then share them in the comments. And don’t stop to share your findings on Fujirumors and at the Hot Firmware threads of the Fuji-X-Forum. enjoy your day… and FW 4.0 , Fuji X Forum, Facebook, Google+, RSS-feed and Twitter Gil Barib wrote.... Here is a copy/paste of my X-T1 settings for sports from a previous post: High Performance Mode is On, Pre AF is On, AF-Mode mostly on Zone, 5x3 grid or 3x3, and only the central PDAF points are used, I'll use Single Point if the subject is a busy pack of athletes to keep the AF from jumping from one to the other, it really depends on de type of sport. I dont use Wide, since it uses the slower CDAF points Release/Focus Priority is set to Focus (both for Af-S and Af-C) Face detection = Off Eye detection = Off Shutter on MS only. AF is on Continuous and the Drive Mode is on CH (8fps), My EVF is set to Normal, not Full LMO is On (even if I'm shooting RAW only) OIS at Off most of the time since I'm shooting with SS usually above 1/500 of a second, OIS at On (mode 1) would give me a stabilized view in the EVF, but I find it induce a little lag when trying to quickly center the subject in the af zone (that little white cross in the middle of your Zone or the Single point square) I'm shooting RAW only with a 300mb/sec 64gb SD UHS II, no problems with the buffer. I always aim and follow the subject, half-pressing the shutter while tracking it, keeping the white cross in the middle of the Zone on target, I'll then fire a short burst when the subject is close to the optimum distance/spot/framing. The hard part is aiming during the black out, practice and anticipation is the key! Here is a important trick to get the best possible results: dont let the lens "wonder around"[ I got PRE-AF at on, so the X-T1 and XF50-140 are always trying to focus, if I take my eyes off the EVF and let the camera point to the ground it is going to focus there. When I'll lift it to my eyes to quickly take a shot it is going to have to focus from somewhere like one or two meters to 10 meters (where my subject is), same goes with far-away backgrounds, dont let it go there! Make sure it's always around the right focus distance, aim at something close to your optimum spot or the place were you'll start your burst, the ground, something on the side of the tracks. By doing this, acquisition time will be faster and in my experience once the X-T1 gets tracking on a subject it won't let go too easily. So for race type sports like MTB or Skiing I always aim at where the subject is going to come into the frame, a curve / bump/ feature by the path the subject should follow. For more random sports like soccer or football it is better to follow the action in the EVS while half-pressing the shutter. The AF system on the Fuji likes to have a subject with good contrast too, I've shot enough speed skaters to notice a slight difference of performance depending on the patterns and color of the bodysuit (all black suits being the worst). With the Single Point AF make sure the AF box size is: as big as possible but cover only the subject. One last thing I kind of feel that the XF50-140 is a big part of the equation too...makes a difference, I did not try it but the XF90mm with it's quad Linear Motors seems good from the result I've seen. The Flickr Fuji-X Sport and Action Group: https://flic.kr/g/quLzW My Album of AFC Tracking examples on Flickr: https://flic.kr/s/aHsjVwSDVD Good luck (and good light ! ) too you Gilles