milandro

To be clear I don’t have a camera with extended spectrum and I am just thinking with you to help. I don’t think this is a problem of which lens you are using! Your Fuji autofocus lens should be working like any other or actually better. The flashing light indicates some type of malfunction but I don’t know which. It is possible, I gather from what you are saying, that the camera is now, for some reason, unable to focus automatically and that you need to use the camera only in manual focus? Maybe you cannot use automatic exposure? Set the camera on Manual focus and see how that works. If that is not working try also setting the exposure to manual. Page 33 of the manual should give you some directions towards how to choose Manual exposure, AE(P0 , AE(S), AE(A). There is a X-T1 IR (different camera) made for extended spectrum ( infra red) maybe that manual gives more and better ideas on how to deal with things like this.

Everything needs learning, cameras don’t take pictures on their own, especially professional cameras don’t! Maybe I don’t find this difficult because I’ve been doing this for 35 years. On a 35mm I used routinely a 15mm so a 14m (or the 10-24 I’ve used and the 12 mm that I do use now) doesn’t make me think it is any difficult to use. This is a 10mm

Spent 3 weeks in hot and humid Cuba, had no problems, so, I think that, provided that you have temperature and humidity not wildly exceeding the norms (as in the very rainy forest in the rainy season) you are all right, however if you have absolutely no chance to reload them in case you need to, because you will have no electricity socket, a back up solar charger might be a good idea. For normal trips other than deep in the rain forest , don’t worry, you’ll be ok.

are you using the camera with the lens it was calibrated with?

It might not be the solution to your problem but it is a start. If you are still having problems due to a camera malfunction, and the company which made the modification appears to be unresponsive and unhelpful telling you that you are on your own, I am afraid that the situation will be rather more complex because maybe Fuji won’t “ repair” a camera that has been modified outside their control. They have made a version of the X-T1 with expended spectrum capabilities. The A setting of the lens makes the aperture depend on the shutter speed, the A setting of the shutter speed makes that depend on the aperture. If the camera is in both A then it is in Program mode.

there is nothing intrinsically more difficult about the 14mm, perhaps many realize that they can buy a 12 mm for a lot less and that they don’t need the autofocus after all.

It is certainly wise to have a portrait lens which takes your subject a little further away, whether that has to be the 56 or something else is debatable. I am very happy with a number of adapted lenses and the 60mm macro too. I don’t know that you can conclude that the 35 will have no longer any use because in my opinion it is a different lens from the 56-60 and it is a different lens from the 23mm too. So I would actually keep the 35, add the 23 ( because the space between 12 and 35 is too big and uncovered) keep the 35 and look for a medium tele. Have you considered a 60? They are cheap second hand because they are unduly branded as “ slow” while they are plenty fast for portraits. Try an adapted lens, very cheap too!

you have three possibilities "EVF Only," "LCD Only" and "EVF Only + Eye Sensor." in the third one you shoot with EVF and look on LCD for anything else. I don’t understand what’s different from what OP appears to want to do... http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-e2s/menu_setup/evf_lcd/index.html EVF/LCD SETTING Choose a display. EYE SENSOR Automatic display selection using eye sensor LCD LCD monitor only EVF Viewfinder only EVF ONLY + Viewfinder only; eye sensor turns display on or offThe eye sensor turns the viewfinder on when you put your eye to the viewfinder and turns it off when you take your eye away (note that the eye sensor may respond to objects other than your eye or to light shining directly on the sensor). If automatic display selection is enabled, the LCD monitor will turn on when the viewfinder turns off.

I don’t understand the problem. You have several settings one toggles between EVF and LCD according whether the camera is in close proximity of your face, it will show things in the EVF or otherwise in the LCD. In all my cameras this is set this way and both the picture or the menus come in the EVF if the camera is to my eye and on the LCD if not.

Pardon my ignorance but doesn’t this full spectrum modification imply that the camera has to be used with filters to selectively shoot some part of the visible and invisible spectrum? What I see from the sites of the modifiers is that cameras with this spectrum modification are separated from a filter which covers the sensor but they can only retain autofocus with an (expensive) filter on the lens. There are different filters for different wavelengths. From what you write you aren’t using any filter hence the inability of the camera to focus or expose. On top of this some sites specifically recommend to disable the sensor cleaning ( because that happens with the part that has been removed). “.....While modified cameras can be and are used for everyday photography using either external color correction filters or a custom white balance, please be aware that these modifications fundamentally alter an important part of your camera's optical chain. By replacing both the IR filter and the front filter used for the dust cleaner function with a filter of the proper thickness, the optical viewfinder calibration and autofocus with normal lenses is retained. External or clip-in filters are used to customize the camera's response for the use at hand...astronomical, normal photography, or IR imaging. Be sure that you understand that the Full Spectrum modification requires that external or clip-in filters are required to tailor your camera to a particular application. These filters are NOT supplied as part of the modification. .."

incidentally the sensors are obviously the same and they produce the same size of raw and the same quality image. The Jpeg are different in size because of different compression. Read this. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/228-x-t10-jpeg-size-150-larger/

A little knowledge is dangerous ( Alexander Pope) , The dpi that you see in the image size has nothing to do with anything other than printing and it is there to be changed for that purpose but nothing else. As often happens this has been discussed before here and elsewhere but relax... it’s a red herring. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/1768-how-do-you-change-the-x-10-file-sizes-from-72dpi/ This is the comment made by Larry Bloch in that thread...

I’ve never had a problem with my X-T1 but the best answer to your problem is the one I gave above, extract that card using the method described, change card.

Because of problems cause by two carpal tunnel syndrome my fingers have lost some dexterity and I drop a lot of small objects. Using the original caps is a real pain in the neck, all third party caps (although I’ve never lost any I have changed my lens hoods and changed the cap accordingly) are better or equally good than Fuji’s.

well, it is , after all, a famous proverb: “You can please some of the people all of the time, you can please all of the people some of the time, but you can’t please all of the people all of the time”.” So it is not unlikely that “ satisfying everyone” is an hyperbole but not something that can be possibly done on a global scale. So some people will be satisfied by Fuji and some won’t. Some will buy the Fuji to come and some won’t. Nothing new under the sun.

As jfoxshoots says above you can certainly have dust or any other particles ( water, oil) on your sensor. The presence or absence of a mirror is immaterial when it comes to dust. In any case you wouldn’t solve the problem of sensor dust or particles by cleaning the mirror... how did you get this idea? Dust on the mirror does nothing to the picture! You would need to clean the sensor in any of the two camera systems ( Dslr or mirrorless) to get rid of the dust on the sensor and in that respect not having a mirror is an advantage because you don’t have to lift it. Despite the fact that some think that the mirror actually acts as a barrier, it drives in dust by moving up and down so it might actually be more a problem than it is a protection. You are right, dust on pictures can also be at the back of the lens, this is not as rare as one may think! If you use extreme wideangles and very closed apertures you will actually see the shadow cast by a spec of dust or a hair on the real lens element , both things have happened to me when using the 10-24 and the 12mm Samyang. But that is easy to clean. So every digital camera with interchangeable lenses has the potential to drive in dust or droplets of condensation every time you change lens. Weather Resisting cameras and lenses might offer some protection but ultimately when you change lenses you might always get dust on the sensor. Zooms are also dust cannons, when you move the lens elements inside you are displacing air and with air comes... dust! So it is not if you get dust but when. This is why every digital camera has a more or less efficient way to “ clean” the sensor by vibrating it at ultra fast speed. The theory is that you do pretty much what a dog does when coming out from water, he vibrates its skin and shakes off the water. But although sensors are very smooth and would certainly be good at shaking off dry dust if dust is wet or there is both dust and moisture in the air then the opposite will happen, because the sensor is very smooth wet particles will adhere very tenaciously. However better safe than sorry. You can have it active or non active and if active it can be set to vibrate before and or after switching the camera or both ( I have it on both). Despite this at some stage you will need to clean your sensor. Cleaning the sensor starts, as jfoxshoots mentions, with blowing the dust off but if dust has had the benefit of condensation it will be very much more difficult to get rid of once the specs have adhered to the shiny surface of the sensor. Then you need some more intrusive method. As usual on fora, you are not the first person to experience that. If you were to use the search engine with words like “ dust sensor” or “ sensor cleaning” you get a number of hits. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/index.php?s=9fea0e2262d15eed04d1680d748f106a&app=googlecse#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=dust%20sensor http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/index.php?s=9fea0e2262d15eed04d1680d748f106a&app=googlecse#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=sensor%20cleaning or read an article written here http://www.fujirumors.com/how-to-clean-the-x-trans-sensor/ watch some videos and learn that there are gel cleaners ( CAREFUL, some are suitable for Fuji sensors some aren’t! Make sure you know which is which!) and wet cleaners. )

original lens front and rear and body caps are hugely expensive compared to third party alternatives. Since there is nothing technological to any of this buying one of the many substitutes on line is only common sense.

this is a good read, the search engines are your friends. http://www.fujirumors.com/?s=sensor+cleaning

the first reductions are already there but the secondhand market tells you that you can now spend as little a s 50% of its original price. It’s a buyer’s market. The X-E2 was cheaper immediately before of the introduction of of the X-e2S that it is now... maybe better to buy in the direct aftermath after the X-T2 introduction.

Jamie Oliver slaps thing in the pan ( and burns things too in the oven) in shows too, and has created a generation of people whom are convinced that anything goes. The truth is that he knows better and in some other instances he reveals himself to be a great and rather traditional cook using good and traditional methods that he learned at school. Although one can make the case that a spec of dust or even a scratch makes no difference on the surface of the lens, treating your equipment with respect is a mindset. Be clean and organized and you can still be a great photographer. Cartier-Bresson wasn’t a messy photographer in anything. Here you see him (already an older gentleman, holding the lens cap of his camera... he didn’t just bang camera and lenses in a bag, he had respect for his persona looks and the ones of camera too...) One thing is not necessarily the other. Being messy and not looking after your equipment doesn’t mean you are a “ pro” it means you are a messy person. Some can take pictures too but you don’t need to be messy to do that. Don’t obsess either way. Repeat.

Beside the fact that it is Summer and a lot of people are on holiday and might not drool to answer forum queries while they are enjoying themselves, it’s not so much that it is boring title but that it is unclear. So if you would have written, “ cap replacements suggestions “ maybe you could have enticed even more people than myself. The 35mm has a 43mm filter thread, not easiest but impossible to be found on the market. I don’t have the same lens but I do have a collapsable rubber lenshood with a lenscap in that size, so they are out there. I could sell it to you but I am sure you can buy one cheaper because shipping from China is the cheapest in the world. Often though, it is better to find a lens cap that fits the lens hood rather than the front filter so that you can put it on the hood , just measure the hood that you use and buy one cap accordingly. If you thing that this lens hood comes off easily you probably never had the octagonal rubber lens hood of the 35mm f1.4 that one came off every time I used the lens. Good luck.

No, I don’t own one and won’t buy it either, but I have been using a friend’s camera. I am happy with my other fujis

Your Your link brings to some obscure site which is asking to download files... sorry, but I not going to do that, I don’t think that many would be downloading files from an unknown source, anyway, are you using the pixel mapping of the X Pro 2? http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-pro2/menu_shooting/pixel_mapping/index.html Use this option if you notice bright spots in your pictures. Press MENU/OK in the shooting display and select the IMAGE QUALITY SETTING tab. Highlight PIXEL MAPPING and press MENU/OK to perform pixel mapping. Results are not guaranteed. Be sure the battery is fully charged before beginning pixel mapping. Pixel mapping is not available when the camera temperature is elevated. Processing may take a few seconds.

they explain it here http://fujifilm-x.com/af/en/

cheers, much obliged. In another thread a member just wrote that he bought the X-T2 with the grip because the price of the two was Sooooo enticing that he couldn’t resist, even though he admitted not having a particular reason to do so. So, I am convinced, that almost anyone will buy the camera with the grip and as I wrote, they are now the proud owners the largest small camera in the world. QED.