waggles

I'd buy and then sell it when you get home. I bought a used 100-400 when I shot Canon and sold it after the safari for what I paid for it. Probably not a lot of used fuji's yet, but it would probably be cheaper than renting for 3 weeks. You would also have more time to play with it. I have the Fuji 100-400 now and don't feel the need for the grip to hold it with my Xt-2 though the higher frame rate might be nice.

Anyone know what the dimensions (in pixels) the panoramic files will be in the X-T2?

Thanks Sluw. Maybe I'll keep one battery for astrophotography and once it's drained I will end my astrophotography for the trek.

Thanks to you both for the advice. I will be at high altitude, so the weather will be cold -5 to 20 C. I will keep spare battery next to my body. I was worried because I used up a battery for one hockey game, but the camera was on and auto focusing for about 20 minutes out of the hour. In Peru it will be mainly scenery, so the camera will be on much more intermittently. I may take some astro photos, so I can see that consuming more power. As long as I have 2 batteries left for the last day, I will be happy.

I am going on a 4 day trek in Peru next month. I have 6 batteries for my x-t1. I would like to know the best ways to conserve power. What comes to mind is switch off high performance, change OIS mode, evf brightness, use evf instead of lcd, manual focus instead of auto focus. Does anyone have ideas on how impact these choices would make? If negligible, I may leave things the way they are and hope for the best. Thanks

I find that with the X-T1, I can change the battery while leaving my Black Rapid strap attached in the tripod socket. I wasn't able to do this with my X-E1. I don't know if it is possible with the X-T10, but looking at some of the few photos of the bottom plate, the battery chamber appears to be closer than on the X-T1. Of course the SD socket is on the side with the X-T1 so is accessible when the tripod socket is being used, whereas the X-T10 has the memory card in the battery chamber.

Sorry I got the weights wrong for the primes. The canon 85 f1.8 is 425g, the canon 100mm F2 is 460g and the fujifilm 90mm f2 is 540g. About a 100g more than canon equivalent.

The Sony zeiss equivalent is 308g. Don't know how much WR should add in weight. When I changed from canon 70-200 f4 L without WR to canon 70-200 f4 L IS with WR the weight went from 705g to 760g. I expect some of the increase was due to the addition of IS. Fuji lenses seem to be heavy. The 90 f2 is 460 g. The canon 85 f 1.8 is 325 g and the canon 100 f2 is 350g. ( I think I have these numbers correct)

I would also be interested in a WR, OIS approximately 16-70 or so. Good quality equal to the 18-55 2.8-4. 500 g would be too heavy for me. Less than 400g.

For a constant f4 zoom that goes to 400mm, it would be better to buy the Canon or Nikon and add a dslr body to the package. The extra cost and weight of the dslr body would be very small compared to using a fujifilm body and the performance would be superior.

Antony, Thanks so much for spending the time to give me all those helpful hints. I will try out the camera with new settings tonight. Bruce

Focus problems were due to a stupid mistake on my part. Somehow the camera was set to macro mode. I discovered that while fooling around with the camera today. Funny thing was that it didn't seem to affect focus with the 18-55 lens. Also, it sometimes acquired focus on distant scenes, so I don't really understand what macro mode does. The manual just says to use this mode for close distances. Thanks for the suggestions on burst mode. Problem is that I want high speed bursts. I want to follow the play through the viewfinder and fire off a burst when things look good. After the first burst, the viewfinder isn't available for a few seconds. This is probably old news to many of you, but I found it frustrating.

I tried my new x-t1 yesterday for shooting roller blade hockey. I used the 55-200 lens. Exposure setting was ISO 6400, 1/250, f5.6. Not bright, but not bad for indoors. I set the camera focussing to Continuous and the drive to CH. I was shooting through plexiglass. It was almost impossible to get the camera to focus. I tried changing the size of the focus area from medium to large and it made no difference. Is there something else that I should adjust? Is this lens responsible? When I did occasionally achieve focus and shot a burst, I could not follow the action afterwards because the camera was displaying the captured images in the EVF. Is there a way to stop this, maybe have the captures shown on the LCD instead? I have not had any trouble with the Canon 7d or 5dii in the same situation. Can I optimize the x-t1 for this type of shooting or do I need to keep my DSLRs until mirroless evolves? Thanks for any advice.

"Real lens": 100-400 assuming the autofocus evolves to be competitive with Canon 7d for sports and wildlife. " Hypothetical lens": 16-70 f4, WR, OIS similar weight and equal image quality to the 18-55 f2.8-4 OIS

Yes I think both sites are valuable. Still think another name could have been chosen. If rumours doesn't encompass the content maybe "Fujifilm X Forum". To me it was like starting a new forum withe the name " DP-REVIEW".