milandro

In the EU no brand can set the minimum price, legally, and if all the shops sell at the exact same price can anyone explain how would the “ market forces “ operate? Not 1 cent difference. ( the cashback applies anywhere, it’s not the shop but Fuji directly) https://www.cameranu.nl/nl/search?sort=relevance&q=fuji+60mm http://www.kamera-express.nl/product/12177654/fujifilm-xf-60mm-f-2-4-r-macro-fujinon-eqv-91mm/ http://www.cameraland.nl/objectief/xf-60-2-4-r-macro/

I agree, but I think this ( the majority with the exception of two where the nose is very prominent, those are fisheye ones) would be a 10 or 12mm look rather than the fisheye ( I have 12 and 8) , OP, before you publish copyrighted pictures owned by an agency you may want to check with the copyright owners. The forum might be held responsible for this. You could better just link the picture by giving the link. Like this. post-17461-0-33229600-1480367078.jpg

X-T2 and 1 use same screens there are several threads over the many options http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/3580-x-t2-t1-screen-protector/ http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/3815-x-t2-screen-size-screen-protector-options/ http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/4108-recommendations-xt2-screen-protector/

well, that’s not the precise case in the NL, we don’t have a minimum advertised price and the law specifically prohibits companies throughout the whole of the EU, to all agree on one price and stick to it. I’ve tried to negotiate when buying severa cameras and lenses and every single time stumbled upon this: Years ago when I bought the bulk of my equipment I asked a shop why would I buy from them if there were at least 4 other shops in Amsterdam alone (and the rest of the country) which sold the same lens ant the exact same price. They first answered “ because of our service!” , I objected that all shops gave the same service except the shops on line (which also have the exact same price although their overhead is way lower than a physical shop). Privately, in a conversation, a sales person of a shop in Amsterdam admitted that they couldn’t even sweeten the deal with a free filter or something like that because, and I quote: “ There have been agreements made among all the shops and the Dutch Fuji”. Now this is precisely what the law forbids, the creation of a cartel. If proven (difficult) it would result into a legal action by out anti-cartel control authority: NMa, which would punish this with very serious fines. If this would be proven to be on an European scale then the EU Anti-trust watchdog would intervene in a similar way and so on.

as noted above, prices in Asia are often much better. American are hardly ever charged anything when importing from abroad (unless you are importing as business to business). In EU there is an uncanny uniformity among all local Fuji. For some reason that my mind refuses to not call an agreement with all the shops, prices are , generally, throughout the EU, everywhere the same. They certainly are in the NL and affect all the shop simultaneously. So we don’t have the luxury to chose among shops choosing a different price and importing really comes at a premium. Check the prices in Hong Kong, Singapore, Burma, Thailand, and buy with confidence using the paypal protection ( they get you the money back should you not receive the item)

well, there are several threads about using adapted lenses onto the X system so, yes, many of us have taken that direction albeit not exclusively. As for any forum, look things up with the search engine. This forum offers, way more than others, the possibility to publish pictures which are then stored in its resident archives ( and therefore not susceptable to be disappearing unless the OP won’t do that ) plus most members have a gallery although I personally don’t have much in there. I have tried many lenses with adapters , so several types of Helios 44 58mm, Takumar 50mm and 100mm macro and few more. Several examples here http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2599-new-bokeh-monsters-or-classic-cheap-adapted-glass/ Currently I own a great Meyer-Optik Görerz Orestor 50mm f1.8 a lens that can be both soft when open to the maximum aperture and incredibly sharp when stopped down. It has some shiny specs on the last lens ( glass, metal?) which don’t bother me ( or bother its performance, see the knife picture shot at f8 with a tilt adapter) at all and I’ve bought it for peanuts at a charity shop where I regularly go. Few days ago I have acquired a 85mm Petzval f2.2. Not, strictly speaking, an “ heritage” lens or maybe the most heritage of all (depends how you see it) since it more or less faithfully reproduce a design of the first “ complex lens” (other than a meniscus lens ) invented in 1840. This lens is of a new production and was the fruit of a crowd funding launched by Lomography. I use both these lenses with focal reducers and or with adapters without focal reducing. I also have, for M42 screw in lenses, a tilt adapter ( not shift, just tilt) by Kipon. Adaptive photography requires a bit more of knowledge compared to autofocus-fully automatic-photography but it is no rocket science. Anyone can do it, it can be cheap and a lot of fun but it isn’t everybody’s cup of tea.

a lot of offers are just re-fried hot air, however the exchange rate has been creating some havoc in the marketplace. Prices are the lowest on the South East Asian markets but then if I import to Europe I get VAT and handling through customs and the exercise is no longer worth the effort after all of that.

alternatively to reading thoroughly the manual is buy one of the books about your camera or , if you want to do this on the cheap, download this courtesy of our member Kent ( maybe thanking him would be appropriate if you do) Follow the link to download the free PDF's http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/3153-x-t10-guide/ Follow the link to download the free PDF's

you can send the bets to me for safekeeping

well, you are, as often happens, not the first one http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/1990-find-shutter-priority-when-no-switch-on-the-lens/

Pretty nasty! The X-T1 didn’t suffer reflexions on the sensors in this way ( although I recall some people complaining of observing the grid under some video shooting conditions). The X-T1 had for some a certain red dot flare when shooting against the sunlight. I’ve personally never observed this although it might have been also depending on the lens that you have on your camera and the angle of the sun. I don’t think that this is an issue that can be corrected by software as it seems to to concern the lens and the internal reflections on the glass surface of the sensor revealing its grid. This is a X-T1 picture with the 12mm Samyang. Obviously the sensor wasn’t affected as in the examples above.

with respect, that too might be too broad a statement. This is NOT my picture ( it is a Tasmanian Photographer Alan X ....don’t know the surname) and yes, was taken with the 8mm fisheye and it has been corrected with the software (Fisheye Hemi) that I mentioned above but you can use fisheyes and interiors ( with the appropriate caveats, corrections or expert usage)

...Not necessarily so, if you are shooting certain subjects in a certain way holding your camera straight and not including too many straight lines around the edges you will hardly notice the fish eye effect. Both these shots were taken, and left uncorrected, with the 8mm. So you can obviously use this lens for landscapes ( I could have paid a bit better attention in making the second shot and the horizon would have been absolutely flat)

maybe not a screw in but you may find a competent optician (believe it or not some are still out there) who is able to make you a lens and and insert it inside a slide on cap to fit an X-Pro-2 ocular. The lens holder could be a slide one with a O ring or something like this 3D printed ocular made by someone for a X-E camera ( although they are different the principle would stand for an ocular on a X pro 2 too) . Other possibilities are getting inspired by other people whom found solutions for other Fujis, such as X-T10

the only software (that I know of) that does justice to the use of a fisheye is Fisheye Hemi. With anything else you will crop so much that it is hardly worth using an 8mm. https://imadio.com/products/prodpage_hemi.aspx I’ve briefly considered this but in the end the fuss of going through each shot made me buy a fisheye ( for the fisheye look) and a 12mm. Both lenses are relatively cheap new but even cheaper if you find them secondhand. In my neck of the woods (the NL) there are always lots of them on offer because many people unwittingly buy super-wideangles and fisheyes but after some time they discover that the lens receives little use (I don’t care if I don’t use much a lens that I still want o own for that one time that I want to use it) it turns out that they don’t know what to do with these lenses and re sell them at a loss. As for the Fish eye I got yes the 8mm 2.8 but the cheaper version I ( Version II has a larger back element for purposes other than the use on a Aps-C) and I am very happy with it. Both the 8 & the 12 are exceptionally light and small and practically autofocus if you put them on f8. Selective focus on lenses like this, I think, it is, for me, pointless. The 10-24 is a great lens but I used it almost always on 10mm so I decided to sell it ( to a friend) and take a small loss. With the money I’ve bought myself at least 3 other lenses, including my latest toy, the Petzval 85mm (also a very specialistic lens) which might be followed, if I find one cheap, from a Samyang 85mm.

I think that you ought to be commended for not opening yet again, another thread if there is a thread already open on any subject. I own the 8mm Samyang and the 12mm. Before of that I had the 10-24mm. When I had the Fuji wideangle zoom I used it mostly at 10mm, but I decided to sell that lens and buy the 8mm and the 12mm, I also own the 18-55. I don’t need anything in between although I might, one day, replace the 18-55 with a 16-55. Yes, I think that the 16 will be too close to the 12. Now for alternatives. The 10mm Samyang could be a possible candidate. This is a lens made for full frame cameras and its performance is very poor outside the center of the image where it is very good. If you use such a lens on a crop sensor you will cut out the worst part of it. The con is that it is a very large lens compared to the 12mm and it has a stop less (not all that important) also you can’t use, easily, filters on it. The 8mm is a great lens but , very much in a category of its own. You can’t compare the performance of a fish eye to the one of ultra wideangles. Different kettle of fish. In theory you can de-fish this lens , in practice it will be a lot easier to go for the 12 or the 10mm.

Another VERY important hint for using this lens is never to trust your eyes without using the focus assist (or one of the other focus aids). It is just so easy to misjudge the focussing ( never before had so many problems with any adapted lens). Another thing is, despite the fact that you might have a sufficiently short shutter speed, do use a monopod or a tripod, a very small shift between focusing and shooting and you will focus someplace else that you are thinking of and this lens , even stopped down, won’t forgive you that!

By the way, looking on the Lomography site, somewhere in the recesses of the site there is a very good hint on how NOT to drop (& lose) the Waterhouse aperture slides. Bend, slightly, the two “ lips” on the top of the slide. This will hold the slide in place! Lomography site picture. and that’s what the lens looks like on my camera ( shot with my not so smart phone since I no longer have a second camera), you may notice the cork modification to the metal grip. That I made it myself. This is really a great lens, and also, albeit only in the center and at certain apertures, see this shot at ƒ5.6 of the usual lady luck I use for tests. Below also a shot to show resolution (or rather its fall off) at f5.6 at infinity. HOWEVER, remember that ALL these pictures are shot with the aid of a focal reducer. This menans that they will probably be sharper without it and I will some time, buy also a different adapter without a lens element and see how THAT performs.

this has happened a few times but I’ve always noticed that there was something wrong ( the first time, something else connected to the same selector happened, and that was that I put it on continuous shooting but that wasn’t so bad I only had to sieve through a lot of the same pictures). When I put it on advanced filters by mistake, fortunately, not only I noticed (the filter was noticeable) but also the symbol , ADV showed in the viewfinder & Lcd ( white in the viewfinder and red in the LCD). This is, if you have enabled it to be displayed. If so, you might miss it but paying attentions to your screen in a camera as complex as this, helps.

well, yes, the X-T10 is now about to be discontinued though ( it was shortly declared as such and then it went back to “still in production” status) so buying one now might not be the smartes of the moves seen it is about to be replaced by the X-T20 which name has just being registered and will probably include all sorts of improvements over the X-T10. Besides you have mentioned two cameras ( X-A3 and X-70) with the possibility to turn the LCD towards the people in the so called “ selfie” mode ( which I then figured it might have been important to you , since this is probably the reason why the XA-series, beside its price, is so popular on the Asian markets) . If I were you I would buy a now discontinued X-A2 ( even a secondhand one) with the lens of your choice, then later on, once you’ve familiarized yourself with the system, upgrade (you can still resell the X-A2 then) to whatever camera takes your fancy among the several which are soon to be introduced in the system. The X-A2 will be probably the same as the X-A10, which, as I wrote above, appears to be simply a re-packaged X-A2, both the XA-3 and XA-10 are now delayed do to some bugs so there is time to reflect upon things and find a camera on your local market.

I’m sorry to hear that, however it is maybe possible to add a lens made to this purpose, the X pro 1 did offer this possibility.

isn’t that fun?

Nevertheless, overheating is a known issue and Fuji has devised the new batteries and the grip with the specific function of not creating and dissipating heat. https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/58028294 http://www.fujirumors.com/fujifilm-np-w126-will-generate-less-heat/ http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/3818-does-the-x-t2-get-hot/

That’s why the camera comes with new batteries and the huge grip, to prevent overheating thus creating the contradiction in terms of a small camera ( one of the characteristics of mirrorless cameras is size and weight) which needs a huge accessory ( the grip) in oder to do what this camera is supposed to do better. Continuous shooting and Filming.

The X-70 lens is a wideangle lens and also with the extra, expensive, add on lens, it will never qualify for “ all round” photography. Most buyers of this camera bought it because they like the so called “ street photography”. Some use it next to their other x cameras, VERY few own only a X-70.