milandro

what happened to the original charger? I have had some OEM battery, one swell up, the others worked until I sold them with a camera. I now have two original batteries and one charger I‘ve never run out of juice. I shoot as if it was film and don’t go on the rampage shooting thousands of shots all almost the same. I have going through thousands of shots to pick on picture. I guess that shooting large format ( 4” x 5” and 8” x 10”) sheet film taught me to get an image with 4 shots available, tops.

this Meyer Goertz 50mm f1.8 costed peanuts and takes as good as an image as any 56 might produce. I don’t believe in autofocus for portraits index.php

I used both in manual focus and my first picture with the X-E1 was a portrait in ambient light shot in manual focus with the 35mm f1.4. The enhanced and superior performance of the EVF of the X-T1 are way above the possibilities than the X-E2 too and I actually decided to buy the X-T1 because I took a peek down the EVF and from then on I was sold ( b.t.w. recently I’ve looked again in some older reflex cameras and the EVF has still to go a long way to get you a picture as crisp & light ( in good light). Where the EVF excels is the fact that it actually amplifies light were almost no light is, and then you can do things that a reflex would struggle to do. I had bought a X-E2 from a photographer whom had used it only for one assignment and then never used it again. Bought it in a deal with the 23mm and then I’ve sold the 23 so the camera care to a very low cost. When I then sold the camera I even made a few bobs on it. I am keeping that money for the next purchase whatever it might be.

I have owned X-E1, X-M1, X-E2 & still own an X-T1. there was surely an improvement between the X-E1 to the X-E2 but the EVF was not incredibly superior, just better. I would buy a X-E2 if you really like the improved software and characteristics. Both the X-T10 and the X-T1 handling is vastly improved by a L plate with a front grip. They cost a pittance and they are very useful both for balance or mounting the camera on a tripod.

the question is whether the 50 f2 will be much better than what?... and more importantly at doing what exactly? I understand that this series of these f2 lenses are target in particular to the public of the X pro 2 which needs a lens with a front profile that won’t impede vision through the OVF.

I wouldn’t recommend that you try to fix any fuji lens unless you are way capable with these things, in which case you wouldn’t have asked but done this straight away, fiddling around with it won’t be easy. You are dealing with a lot of contacts and very small parts, let alone the fact that you may not have the right tools. I assume that you bought this very cheap because it was damaged or not entirely perfect if this is not the case return the lens, paypal gives you a 180 days guarantee on your money.

I suppose that it is, as we’ve often seen, the good old half empty or half full glass. The glass is half full (and I am happy with this quantity) when it comes the 60mm. I don’t need it to be any fuller. I don’t have a problem with the 60mm at all. It is a very versatile lens and I personally don’t understand the complaining about speed or hunting. But it must be because I like the lens as is, not for what it might be and it is not, nor it would ever need to be for me. If it would be any better it would be scarier than it is already, it is THAT good! You know, the good old : “ If my grandpa or grandma had wheels they would be a bike!”. This lens is what it is and as such I like it very much! One of the best macro lenses that I’ve ever had, and I have had many since 1976. I personally think that it is more versatile than a 50mm f2 could ever be and a completely different league as compared to the 56mm. I have a lot of stuff in this focal range if I include all my adaptive lenses too. The all excel at doing something but nothing does everything so I need a lot of lenses. However my first lenses were the 10-24 and the 60mm ( when I bought it I did consider buying the 56mm but didn’t buy it because of the €400 difference which I couldn’t justify. I’ve employed that kind of money to buy a soft focus lens such as the Petzval 85mm and a focal reducer for example, so I am not cheap, I try to think rationally according to my needs...) . I no longer have the 10-24, but I still have and use the 60mm.

some interesting but inexplicable variation, my camera is 3 years old used quite a bit an only now shows minor traces of wear and only by the thumbrest at the right and side of the camera where the thumb is always . No other place ( I use a L plate with front grip ... still) shows any wear and absolutely NO tear whatsoever. I am not doubting your words but I cannot believe that we are talking of the same camera! I hope this isn’t going to jinx my camera but that is what I have found to be the situation. Incidentally I have another friend who bought the same camera one year and a half later at the same shop and he has no wear whatsoever too, perhaps even less than mine!

when you zoom in you also reduce the amount of light (or increase it if you zoom out) because the f value is the ratio between pupil size and focal length, by changing the focal length you change the amount of light (also because you increase or decrease distance )

I have a not so smart LG phone ( and I’ve had a cheap tablet too which is now broken) on both devices I could use the app ( the first version was not as good as later upgrades) with both these devices. If it doesn’t work upload the latest version, if the problem persists it is likely to be a device problem rather than a camera or app problem. One extra thought is that any wi-fi device will be performing less than well if there is a cloud of wi-fi interferences. TV sets, tablets, telephones, cameras, sound systems, these days the ether is vibrating with so much stuff that it is getting really crowded and sensitive. Where I am there are over 100 ( I’ve never counted them all) networks that my computer sees and indeed to minimize problems ( which I did have initially when I moved here) I had to switch to a 5G network ( my provider provides two channels on its wi-fi router), the older phones sometimes cannot access this 5G signal and this might be, paradoxically, working better this way!

more of these Legacy lenses this time a Fujinon 55mm

well, I suppose that the D pad won’t be discarded, since it is there for every model that hasn’t got a joystick. Perhaps this person swapped the terms LCD with EVF, after all some folks don’t even know what these acronyms stand for.

with a D pad?

I have had a great 10-24 which wasn’t blurred anywhere index.php

Well, yes, it is one way to put it.

you mean you broke it, right?

If there are complaints it is a minority and the camera is good and if there are no complaints the camera is good. So the camera is good whichever way. It is one way to see it. Anyway, I am not sold on what makes this a “ better” camera, for me, so I am not buying. Don’t need faster autofocus, don’t need video, don’t need larger file, don’t need larger grip. The Joystick would be nice. Tough luck, I will live without.

then you are sold already. I don’t miss anything, so I am not upgrading.

http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/index.php?s=1b9d42f7028849eeaf2ac3e948819247&app=googlecse#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=X-T2%20problems here the problems. Advantages? Larger file, better video, faster autofocus, need for a bulky grip to advanced focus and video, joystick. Do you plan to print any langer than 2 x 3 meter? Are you missing anything from your X-T1? Don’t upgrade fro the mere sake of upgrading.

yes, discontinued, you can still find some floating around and of course plenty of secondhand, the search engine is your best friend, before you start a new thread always check what is already there. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/3949-x-t10-discontinued-roll-on-x-t20/ the major difference is the shape and the fact that the X-T10 has a larger image in the EVF.

Batteries will all, at some point, get damaged by the recharging cycles, also original NP-W126 will ( run a search on line, several reports) albeit possibly later than third parties batteries. My macbook battery swell up too (original part) and nearly destroyed the computer from inside this has nothing to do with parts being original or not. It has to do with the way some batteries respond to aging and repeated loading cycles. Indeed even Fuji batteries are third parties batteries, Fuji doesn’t make them! They buy them under tighter specs than other makers but they are batteries like all others. Duracell is a well known name but there is nothing in that name to suggest they are any better than other makers. They too will get damaged. As soon as you notice bulging discard (dispose in appropriate manner) and replace. As for batteries, quality varies greatly, have you read this? http://www.fujirumors.com/tested-third-party-fuji-batteries-inflated-capacity-values-some-batteries-almost-fraud-and-the-winner-is/

Any thumbrest relying on connection with the hot shoe has potential hazards because the same forces which made your rubber thumbrest come off will have a much higher impact on the hot shoe thumbrest. Any thumbrest which is sufficiently long ( some are too short) will, somehow, improve handling but you have to be aware that they are, at least potentially, dangerous. Glueing back the rubber thumbrest shouldn't be a problem if you use an adhesive that can be applied on rubber. Silicone kit is generally harmless and you can glue rubber. You could also use Sugru and shape a thumbrest as you please. The results are generally a bit industrial but some manage to get better results than others.

yes, no problem, I too am not greatly in love with this particular effect which I use very sparsely, but it is possible to get a better star (I find yours better than mine ) with closing the aperture past f8 but the quality of the picture drops dramatically with the 12mm past f11. So there are lenses with better performance, both in terms of coating and in number of blades making more corners, they tend to be the lenses made in the ’80 or ’90 when coating was very much developed and the cameras were predominately reflex (circular apertures such as Leica are very bad at doing this because they are ... too good... too circular. I had a Tokina 17mm which I seem to remember gave very good results with this or perhaps the Pentax 15mm. I had both at some stage, long ago. these are all examples which strike me for their nice star patterns. McEnaney-starbursts-water.jpg Nikon-24mm-f1.8G-Image-Sample-13-960x641.jpg

If OP wants a starburst with more than 6 points than he needs a different lens than the 12mm. I am happy with it, obviously otherwise I wouldn’t have posted my picture above which, as far as starburst goes is pretty similar to yours. It is possible to use lenses with 9 or more blades but generally those lenses try to achieve a round aperture which is not what you want to create starbursts. You can also do this with software or with filters.

If you want many points, any lens that has an aperture with many blades and makes no attempt to have a circular aperture. Starbusts of the 12mm are great, I agree!