Jump to content

Does the X-T2 get HOT?


wildcart

Recommended Posts

Check out the new NP-W126S batteries.  Word is they are designed to be used for the 4K video specifically for the purpose of keeping things cool.  It is my understanding they will also work in the Xpro2 so might be worth a try.  You might ask Fuji for clarification on how they will perform with the Xpro2.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My X-Pro 2 gets really hot after a few min of continues use. 

How does the X-T2 handel the heat of the new sensor/cpu?

 

On video? My Pro2 gets only slightly warm but not hot on high speed bursts. Haven't tried video.

 

I used the T2 for about an hour. It ran slightly warm but not as warm as the Pro2. Didn't use video either.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Check out the new NP-W126S batteries.  Word is they are designed to be used for the 4K video specifically for the purpose of keeping things cool.  It is my understanding they will also work in the Xpro2 so might be worth a try.  You might ask Fuji for clarification on how they will perform with the Xpro2.

 

If the price is the same it makes sense otherwise the Pro2 would not benefit from using the new S battery as it will not draw as much current as the T2 during 4k video. Not much benefit on the Pro2 as there isn't a need for heat protected battery.

Link to post
Share on other sites

the new "S" version battery has improved heat dissipation compared to the older version, so a logical improvement. The outfit TheCameraStore" up in Canada did a video on the X-T2 running it through it's paces. They were impressed by the fact it easily did it's 30 minutes of video with no overheating like the Sony A6300 that kept shutting down at 10-15 minutes. I suspect they did a great heat sink job on this camera as they pretty much had to.

Link to post
Share on other sites

from b@h product page:

For using the maximum power of your X-T2 or X-Pro2 mirrorless camera, the Fujifilm NP-W126S Li-Ion Battery Pack has been designed to better manage heat and ensure lightning fast camera performance. This battery is also compatible with older cameras that use the NP-W126 battery pack, but users will not see any performance advantages in those bodies.

Link to post
Share on other sites

In initial testing I to am finding the base of my X-T2 is getting warm after what I call light work. I have also noted high usage of the battery.

 

I was fortunate to get my hands on pre release models of both the Pro 2 and XT2. The Pro 2 got exceptionally warm/hot, which I commented to the guys from Fuji at the time. The XT2 did not suffer this problem. It was one of the reasons I erred towards the XT2.

 

Over the next week I am going to do back to back tests with both my XT2 and XT1 to compare how warm they get and battery life whilst performing identical tasks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm finding my X-T2 to be uncomfortably hot. No video. Just photos.

 

I'm using the included battery but already order another to see if there's any improvement.

 

Anyone else? 

 

Yes I was only going over mine to get familiar with it and it did get warm after about an hour, not hot though just a little warm which I did think was odd. Makes be wonder how it will keep cool in 30c temps.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the XT2 a fair amount at my last weekends wedding and it did not get warm.  This was a causal mix of stills and video as I used it along with my XT1.

 

During the reception I setup the XT2 on a tripod with a boom mic and recorded video of all the speeches.  Longest speech was 13min ... so that was continual video recording.  I did not have the new S battery in the camera (it was already exhausted and I was onto either the old original battery or the Watson aftermarket battery ... I can't recall).  All video was 1080p 30fps.  I had to switch the memory card when that speech was over and noticed the memory card was warm.  But the body felt fine.  

 

I'd expect almost any small compact camera that is shooting video for a period of time to get a bit warm, so this seemed pretty normal to me.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello everyone,

 

I recently got my X-T2 and indeed I noticed it gets warm pretty quickly, just taking stills, no continuous shooting or video. The area that gets warm is near the tripod socket and battery grip contacts.

 

I don't know if that will affect battery life or not, but it's definitely noticeable. It's not uncomfortable, but I hope it won't cause any issue, or need to send it for repair. I love this camera and I'd be annoyed if I had to part from it for a while... ;-)

 

Val

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Hi,

I have an X-T2, and yes it does get warm: at the bottom and elsewhere. If I turn the LCD screen down and touch the back of the camera, then it is hot there too. This happens with the new batteries too. This heat appears after a few minutes if one keeps the LCD and the camera on. To reduce the heat, I switch the LCD off and use the eye sensor to turn the EVF on when I look through it. This works well, but i have not tried it in hot weather.

 

The camrea is warm but not extremely hot.

 

The heat happens when I take still photos. I do not take videos. WIth 4k I guess it will produce more heat.

I tried another X-T2 and it got warm too. One amazon review also mentions the heat problem. I also read it somewhere in a review from a professional person.

When the ambient temperature rises, one will probably have more heat, since the camera cannot dissipate its heat as easily.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On set (I'm a stills photographer) I shoot on average 2,200 shots per 10-hour day, and heat buildup has never been an issue. My X-Pro2 did get warm under the same demands, and the X-T2 is cooler. Neither camera got so hot as to need shutting down. I keep the eye sensor on but rely on the LCD a lot, since we often shoot from low angles or hold the camera over the movie camera's matt box where it would be impossible to look through the viewfinder.

 

I think the "S" battery does makes a difference, but more than that for heavy continuous shooting with the XT2 I suggest using the battery base, especially for video. That also gives you a headphone port. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I got my X-T2 on Sept. 6th. Shot with it all the time since. Took it to Barcelona and put 5,000 shots through it in the first week. I work for my city's tourism board shooting videos on interesting restaurants in the area. I shoot video on it along with my GH4.

 

Not once have I noticed the X-T2 getting warm. I had a guy tell me he returned two because they were warm to the touch but I've never had any of these problems.

 

I run both the NP-W126S battery along with the old NP-W126 battery as well as a number of Wasabi and Patona third-party batteries. Zero problems across the board. Couldn't be happier with it, really.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had both the X-Pro2 and the X-T2. I've never noticed the X-T2 getting hot whereas the X-Pro2 would get warm just going through the menus, shooting stills. I even got a high temp warning on the X-Pro2 after only recording a few minutes of 1080P video. I wouldn't say it ever got "hot" though.

 

I will say the X-T2 certainly gets cold when used out in the winter elements. More so than any other camera I've owned. Feels like carrying a block of ice in your hand.

Link to post
Share on other sites

A lot of bursting will get the X-T1 warm, too, so will using the X8 flash unit that draws power from the internal battery - which I assume is the main culprit in warming up the body, along with the screen.

 

In the X-T2, you have a four times more powerful processor for ACROS noise simulation, 4k downsampling, and blazing fast AF and burst shooting. All this functionality will draw quite a bit of power, which has to be dissipated by the body, as it is ultimately turned into heat. So it's not very surprising and I'm sure the camera is designed for it.

A warmer environment will make it harder for the body to get rid of the heat, so it will reach a higher equilibrium temperature. If you find that to be a problem with stationary use, you can remove heat from the equation by using an external power supply and switching the view mode to viewfinder + eye sensor only. CPU heat can be reduced by not using ACROS, using slower burst modes like 5fps, and turning off boost, which will slower AF speed.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about it unless it is very uncomfortable to you to have warm hands.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My X-Pro 2 gets really hot after a few min of continues use. 

How does the X-T2 handel the heat of the new sensor/cpu?

 

Not clear how you are using it for it to get hot, but shooting still images with XT2-mine does not get hot. You want hot just try the Leica M240. Yikes compared to the XT2.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Last wedding I had the XT2 on a tripod to video the speeches.  Fathers speech was 25min.  Camera was set to 1080p/30fps.  Camera was barely warm after that.  Also shot the other speeches but they were a more reasonable length (5 - 10 min).  When the speeches were done (there were breaks between speeches), I had shot over an hour of video (over a 90 - 120 min period) and camera was fine.  Zero temp concerns.

Edited by Adam Woodhouse
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.
    • Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • I think my Fuji 150-600 F8 is a brilliant wildlife lens in terms of sharpness, portability and value but the small aperture does cause issues at the start and end of the day - even pushing the ISO as far as I dare, I can see shutter speed down to 1/25s - stabilisation isn't an issue but asking a deer to stand still for that is too much! In the same situation, an F4 would give 1/100s so the difference to the success rate would be phenomenal... and that's without the other improvements like shallower depth of field. I also find that the Fuji's subject detect AF gets pretty iffy in low light - I keep updating to the latest firmware but it doesn't seem to get any better. I was originally looking at the Nikon 500mm F4 E but good examples secondhand are still reasonably expensive but like-for-like Sigma lenses are around half the price. Reviews I have read suggest that they are as good optically, AF performance and IS-wise but you gain a few hundred grams of weight (but less than the older Nikon model). For a couple of grand, I can live with that. Does anyone have any experience mounting one on an XH2S? What about with the 1.4 teleconverter? It feels like that is pushing it anyway - hefty lens + TC + Fringer all sounds a bit...wobbly? It is on the Fringer approved list but I am wary about AF speed in particular. I had also considered looking for a used Nikon 400mm F2.8, which would be even faster (and heavier) and could couple with a TC to give 560mm F4 but again, it is that lens+TC+Fringer combination that worries me as being just too many links in the chain. Of course, what I really want is a native Fuji prime but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon - and if you look at what Nikon and Sony are doing, if Fuji do ever bring out a 500mm prime, it will probably be a small, light and cheapish F5.6, which is only 2/3 stop better than my zoom at the same focal length. Any thoughts anyone?
    • The Amazon link is an annoying feature of this forum - its automatic and is applied to every post for advertising purposes. My question was - how do you know the camera wi-fi is on and requires turning off? I would have thought this would just use up the battery for no purpose if you aren't specifically using a function that requires wi-fi.
    • I've made a point to push Angelbird memory products as they are the best performance cards you can get, The sustained write speed is important.
×
×
  • Create New...