Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

 

I have a problem with the new firmware. With the 50-140 on, the IS never stops running. I have set it for "Shooting only", but it still runs all the time, as long as the camera is on.

Tips?

I'm pretty certain that this is normal behaviour for this lens.
Link to post
Share on other sites

I used all the right setting - AF-C, HP mode, Ch, 3x3 zone. The problem was at that distance as shown in my samples the 3x3 zone is simply too large and imprecise, it switched focus from the skater onto the background and back.

 

I have tried only a few shots with the 50-230 at 230mm  they were all well focussed. Different strokes for different people! Good luck!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyway samples below shows what I mean, images from a burst sequence - 

 

…And why did you need a tracking AF for this sequence, exactly?

 

 

Seriously? That's your solution?

 

 

Ever heard of viewfinder blackout?

Link to post
Share on other sites

…And why did you need a tracking AF for this sequence

Wow I'm amazed at this board with so many fanboys and their condescending replies.

 

I posted a legitimate concern with sample photos and these are the replies I get? Great....

 

Where do I begin.....as I've said in the previous post the actions were flying left and right, there was actually 4 female skaters in the ring and there was no way that I could keep switching af-s to af-c/single to zone.

 

You are absolutely right about not needing tracking af in the particular sequence I posted, but the problem lies with zone mode algorithms.

 

First answer this question - Is the camera supposed to lock on the CLOSEST SUBJECT within the zone (either 3x3 or 5x3 in Ch) when using zone AF mode and continues to track if camera is put on af-c?

 

If the answer is yes, fact that it locks onto the subject in the first few frames (note the four samples I posted wasn't every single shot in the sequence), lost the subject in the next couple (focused on background) and back onto the skater again means the zone af isn't that great after all.

 

The skater was spinning at the same spot which means the camera to subject distance remained constant, which means in zone AF mode it SHOULD lock and continues to focus on the subject without jumping off.

 

This alone shows the Fuji's zone implementation is flawed.

 

Ever heard of viewfinder blackout?

Irrelevant to my problem, but thanks for pointing out another X-T1 shortcoming.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

Thanks to all involved for tips and trials on FW4

So far so good for me

 

However I have a question concerning the interlocking of spot metering and the zone tracking.

 

On which point in the zone does the spot meter take its reading: the one in the middle of the zone? The one used to focus on pressing the shutter? Or...?

 

I have looked at many of the posts (but not all) and have not seen this addressed (and it does not appear to be addressed in the xt1 additive to the manual either).

 

Thanks and have a nice evening

Jeremy

Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for the reminder re MS+ES mode disabling PDAF!  But I don't really understand why this needs to be a user intervention - couldn't the camera use PDAF when the camera is using the mechanical shutter and keep doing so until the aperture and light combo pushes the shutter into ES mode and THEN have it auto disable PDAF at that point?  Now I have to keep switching ES on when shooting wider aperture with the F1.2 in sun.  I guess though that the rule is if shooting any moving subject then keep the shutter to MS mode only which I agree does make sense.  Nice photo by the way!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yesterday I had some time to test firmware 4 on some dancers. Its an improvement over firmware 3 but its nowhere near the AF speed of an DSLR. And maybe I would have had more keepers with AF-S then AF-C. Maybe its also because the light in the room was not that great. Hopefully in the next 3 to 4 years the mirrorless cameras catchup with the DSLR performance so I can leave those big cameras / lenses at home.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Chaps

 

One thing I noticed with Fireware 4 is in the AF sub menus the Release/Focus priority settings are both default set to release priority (ie for Single Point and for Continuous)

 

This means the camera is prioritising release over focus accuracy.

 

Might be worth checking this setting if you have not already as that might help with accuracy of focus.

 

+1 as well to using CL mode. I used to always use that on my X-E2 as on the X-E2 in CH mode it would not re-focus between frames, so even in C mode on the front dial when in CH it would focus for the firts shot and then lock at that focus for remaining shots.

 

I found that Cl was actually quite good for most applications good example my daughter going down a slide and running towards me, in CH mode I would get about 17 shots of which the first 4 or 5 were vaguely acceptable but nothing special. Same thing in CL mode I would only get 6 shots, but 5 of them were very sharpa nd one passable none were as badly focused as the CH mode. I would rather have less shots and them all be useable than lots of not very good shots. YMMV

 

Now the X-T1 does re-focus between shots, I think the shot rate does go down slightly if you have focus priority on, but its not as slow as CL, so I think that CH plus focus priority is probably the sweet spot, but I need to experiment more.

 

Most of the above was done with Single AF, not played with Zone AF and burst shooting yet. I have mainly be focusing on comparing it to X-E2 with a view to which camera I keep.

G

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi. I know I'm late to the party to have comments on the firmware, but one thing you should also keep in mind is how the phase detection works only with vertical lines when the camera is in landscape orientation-- so subject tracking will be heavily improved if you are tracking vertical lines. If the subject has more horizontal lines, you will have to have the camera in portrait orientation to take advantage of phase detect af. Xt2 better have cross type pdaf.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

 

I shot some ice skater yesterday and although I got some in focus shot I also have a lot of oof ones that goes straight to the bin.

 

Problem is 3x3 zone is simply too 'loose'.

 

Sure you can argue that I should use single point, but what I think is Fuji needs to implement something like Canon DSLR with 4/8 AF points expansion explained here - http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/1dx_af_pts_article.shtml (Page 2, 4 & 8 points expansion)

 

Anyway samples below shows what I mean, images from a burst sequence - 

 

 
 
 
 

 

Oh well maybe I'm expecting too much, but I feel there's still plenty of room for improvements if Fuji gives us more flexible AF modes to improve it further.

 

 

That happens to me even when shooting not moving subjects using AF-Single set to one point at minimum square dimension (which I don´t why it´s a square instead of a point) specially with wide focal lengths 18-35mm ... The speed is ok, but the AF is still far from being accurate, and at this point I´m not sure if they can fix it with more firmware updates.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

 So looking at the tips, and the venting over the firmware..  

 

Seems like PDAF might be the biggest pain, because it's not compatible with so many other features of the camera..  (can't use ES, FD, etc).

 

Was getting so wrapped up in these "must do" tips before I thought about it and realized I don't spend my days chasing cyclists down the street... :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

very true, I have shot some cyclists and motorcyclists just for kicks and then returned to what I do more often than not which is sigle shot, no auto-track autofocus if not completely manual focus.

 

This whole business of the improved AF, in reality, only ever improved the performance of the 60mm autofocus for me.

 

But of course it was marketed as the panacea for everything for months and so, when it arrived was rather more anticlimactic than most would have liked.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 So looking at the tips, and the venting over the firmware..  

 

Seems like PDAF might be the biggest pain, because it's not compatible with so many other features of the camera..  (can't use ES, FD, etc).

 

Was getting so wrapped up in these "must do" tips before I thought about it and realized I don't spend my days chasing cyclists down the street... :D

 

PDAF and ES are perfectly compatible.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
  • 6 years later...

Wow, this is good to know. Thinking about buying an X-T1 for someone in my family but.. Maybe I should just get them an X-T3 or something instead, to avoid all this lol. I just figured, just go with the cheapest body, and a camera that has some soul to it, to let them learn the basics first. Hmmmm.

Edited by TOPSHELFJUNIOR
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software  to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
    • How does one make sure that Fuji's image correction is turned on to correct barrel and pin-cushion distortion on a GFX 100 or GFX100S when using the GF20-35? Is it only applied to the jpegs and not to the raw files? (I was surprised to discover the barrel distortion on the GF 35-70mm lens.) I normally shoot in raw with jpeg back-up and use the raw files, which I convert either in Affinity Photo 2 when editing with that program or in Raw File Converter Ex 3.0 by Silkypix if I wish to process the image in Photoshop CS6. (Adobe DNG is also a possibility.) Thank you for the help. Trevor
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...