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gordonrussell76 last won the day on April 26 2018

gordonrussell76 had the most liked content!

About gordonrussell76

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  1. Shame, you should seriously look at Capture One as a) you don't have to pay for it, the Fuji version is free to users of Fuji. b) Capture one really does not have a big learning curve at all, people make out it does, and it put me off for a long while, and then I did it and it was great. It has a tool to import and covert your existing LR catalogue (whilst preserving the LR catalogue) c) There are options to configure the view and workflow to ape LR as closely as is possible to help you settle in. Google for a tutorial. G
  2. As well as any other camera. Its fine till you go below the auto focus low light threshold which I believe is -5, in practice I have not found it to be a blocker for flash photography outside or in studio, which is where I use them, YMMV
  3. So after all your requests have been answered favorably by Fuji with the X_t4, have you bought one?
  4. Regarding better eyecup, the eye cup for the X-T1 is still available and fits the X-H1, which is what I personally use as its a flatter profile and works well with my glasses. Also the Eye Cup for the GFX 50S fits as well and some people have had great success with that cup. Both are available to order, or visit your FUji dealer first and ask to try them out before purchase.
  5. Two of the photo's have essentially identical levels of noise , the minor differences are most likely to be due to slight changes in ambient light and also crop levels. I suspect that the first photo without noise which is using one of Fuji's own auto modes is applying more Noise Reduction (baked in via auto mode) and that's why there is less noise, also correspondingly less detail in my opinion. Try this test shoot full manual again at the same settings Aperture f3.6, shutter 1/125 and ISO 200 but this time go into menu and set NR to +2/3 and see if the picture then matches the auto shot. G
  6. Old thread I know but something I have found with the 35mm F1.4 is more than any other Fuji lens it really rewards the mash the shutter button technique, (remember to set to focus priority in sub menu), if you half press it hunts and then by the time you have hit the shutter things have moved, If you just mash shutter in S_AF soon as it acquires focus it fires and I have found accuracy is actually better with this method. Interestingly as well on the X-H1 you get even more keepers with this method as the feather shutter introduces less of the jaring inherent in this technique and also has IBIS to further steady the ship. Oh and the 35mm is faster on the X-h1 anyway thanks to new AF algo's (coming to all the 3rd gen bodies in May. Its good times to be a Fuji user, especially when my first ever lens I bought in the system after the kit (5 Years ago), is still getting better thanks to firmware updates in the bodies.
  7. I suspect the reason they have included the 16-55mm as a lens kit is for the following reasons. 1) Many people have held off buying the 16-55 because it was not stabilized and because it was a big lens, the X-H1 solves both those problem by having IBIS and having a bigger grip so a lot of people may now take the plunge. 2) Currently the 18-55mm has been sold on so many cameras and then switched that you can pick it up on Ebay used for around £200-£250 on any given day, giving away more of them is only going to drive the price down further and anyone who wants one with there X-H1 will just buy one s/h plus body only package much cheaper than in any potential bundle. 3) The 16-55mm is seen as being the PRO zoom and the X-H1 is being marketed as the PRO camera in the line up. 4) Many buyers of the X-H1 will probably already own a 18-55mm, buying the bundle with 16-55mm is appealing as they can compare lenses and probably sell 16-55 for no loss, but,,,,, they might keep it, sensible marketing. Or they sell the 18-55 further reducing the overal cost of the X-H1 kit. Conclusion I suspect that the 16-55 and 18-55 price is going to drop a bit over the coming months along with the X-T2 price
  8. Update I sent the camera in to be checked as warranty was nearly up, they have replaced the powerboard? Whatever that might be, I have not had time to test it yet, but weirdy just using the camera for about 30 mintues while i installed new firmware on a couple of lenses and did the setup on teh camera (apparelty new powerboard wipes all your settings, a*se) and the base and left had side of the camera and screen were all getting very hot just through normal usage. I hope that its not going to be one of those issues that just never get resolved, or that like Meleman they eventually just give me a new camera. I have read somewhere taht all new X-T2 and X-Pro2 get hot on first few days of usage, I wander whether this is either the board 'burning in' or whether its capacitors charging up and once they have it will be back to normal service. It has also occured to me that previously my overheating of the sensor issue might have been caused by the heat sink not working properly and now that its doing its job the camera is getting hot as heatsinks oftern connect to body to dissapate heat externally. I am going to use it for a few days see if the heat goes away, and also stress test it with 4k consecutive shooting. I have to say Fuji did very quick turnaround I dropped it into my local shop last friday and picked it up today, 7 days. I am also going to buy the grip once I have this resolved to my satisfaction as shooting with 2 batteries in grip and none in body for extended 4k shooting shoudl resolve issue and also I wander if you keep using it without grip that is what cause my problem in the first place by stressing components. I will keep this thread updated with my progress. Oh and another thing they updated the camera to the new firmware for me as well which was very nice of them
  9. ps it may just been i need to man up and buy the grip, but I really don't need it for any other reason than the over heating. I don't need the additional boost and FPS and other stuff, i don't need the additional 30 mins recording time as most stuff i shoot in short takes, i don't even need the audio jack as I use a separate recorder and sync the audio in post......... So if there is a fault with the camera I would rather get it fixed now rather than throw money at an accessory that a) i don't need and might not actually fix it if its a genuine mechanical problem (like something not working optimally inside)
  10. Meleman What was wrong with your camera, its interesting because I had no problems with over heating and now suddenly I am getting issues, I get that you need the grip for intense stuff, but I am now having over heating in situations where I would not have before. I used to be able to do an hour of straight recording (with breaks every 9 mins or so to respect the max record time etc) but pretty much continous baring that. Recently was shotting some footage for my daughters school and it was getting very hot, I found it seemed to be the battery ( I was initially using the new battery that came with X-T2 but I found if I swapped it out to another battery that woudl get me going again for another 10 mins and then I had to swap again, I ended up juggling between 3 batteries just to keep things moving. I am going to take it into the shop I bought it and have it sent off to Fuji as its still under a 1 year full warranty post a repair they did, just wanted to have all the information at my fingertips so I don't get fobbed off. Something is definitely not right. For reference I am using Sandisk Extreme UHS3 cards with the high WRITE speed, and I have not changed cards, its been teh same cards and they have performed flawlessy before, its also the same batteries, so nothing has changed about the setup. The only difference was I was shooting with the 18-55 as well as 10-24 on this shoot where previously due to space i have used 10-24 exclusively, i lock off on a tripod and don't use OIS so both lens had this turned off so I can't think that is contributing to over heating unless the 18-55mm ois still draws some current even when switched off and the 10-24 does not, I don't find it likely. If you prefer to PM me details than share in the forum then that also would be great if you don't mind.
  11. Experiment with the metering modes, they may have an influence on how ISO and TTL interact when using flash. Also within the menu there is an option to apply ExComp setting specific to flash so if you find that its always to bright for your tastes you can set the Flash ExComp to -1 EV etc semi permanently in the flash menu. Just some ideas to try. G
  12. This old chesnut AGAIN. Just get Capture one and be done with it Works for me, few hints for people worried about tranisitioning to C1 1) This is for Mike Photo's - note you can import your old LR catelogue into C1 and it will do its best to recreate and translate the settings and processing you had performed in LR, its not 100% and its can't do all settings but it gets damn close and is a great place to start from if you are revisiting an old shoot. 2) Use Workspaces, you can customize your workspace to be as you want it, I use this a lot and have a workspace with all my most used tools in one place, hugely powerful. 3) If you are unsure where to start with workspaces, look in the menu and you will find that there are some legacy workspaces, including a Lightroom one, load this and it configures Capture One to be as much like LR as possible to help you transition your workflow. 4) Use the excellent series of C1 videos on their website, I watched them all and was up and running with about 90% of what I wanted to do in a couple of days. G
  13. This is maybe not going to help, but in your position I would have Bought the XT-20 and 18-55 plus another lens. The XT-20 unless you are doing video or sports is going to be more than enough camera, the WR is overstated I had an X-E2 and as long as you are sensible in the rain and own a plastic bag or two you will be fine. A second lens, especially a prime or two is going to make a huge difference to your experience and enjoyment way more than a few extra body features. In addition in a years time the S/H price of the X-T2 will drop and you will probably be able to swap the bodies when you have saved more cash. Bodies are boring, the lenses are where its at. I had a similar choice as you when starting out, I could get the X-E2 plus 18-55/35/55-200 or the X-T1 and 18-55/35mm I went with the X-E2 and 3 lenses a year down the line I got an Amazon warehouse deal on an X-T1 and sold my X-E2 Bodies lose value lenses don't as quickly and you will get more use out of them. I still have the 35mm and 18-55mm both great lenses. Oh and furthermore if I were in your position unless you really really need 4k the X-T1 is still a fantastic camera and dirt cheap at the moment, i just saw one on EBay going for £250 uk that is insane, you could pick up 3 lenses and have an amazing kit with that and grab an X-T2 in a year or so when the price has dropped if you even want to. I still prefer the look of the files out of the X-T1 generation sensors for portrait and street, the X-T2 additional resolution sometimes feels to clinical and the 16mp had something almost filmlike about its rendering of noise that is not quite the same in the X-T2 not saying X-T2 is bad, but I just finished editing a 3 week trip to Canada last year on the X-T1 and was blown away with how great the sensor on that thing is.
  14. Love the joystick use it at 91 focus points, honeslty rarely need the 321 and most of the time I do i just focus manually and the point is near enough to what i want to be in focus that it still shows up in the magnified view so all is good. I get why people would want it to be adjustable, but it does feel a bit like someone moaning about the design of the volume knob on a Ferrari, its like bigger picture here guys
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