kin2son

OP I think you should just go back and shoot film.

Why would you say that? Since when is having more features and options under your disposal for free a bad thing? I own both X-T1 and the X100T, the T being the newer camera should totally get the update. I hardly use af-c on my T as well, not because I don't want to but it totally sucks balls and failed the very few times I try...

Pretty sure it does in tracking mode (meaning AF-C and either Cl or Ch).

Wow I'm amazed at this board with so many fanboys and their condescending replies. I posted a legitimate concern with sample photos and these are the replies I get? Great.... Where do I begin.....as I've said in the previous post the actions were flying left and right, there was actually 4 female skaters in the ring and there was no way that I could keep switching af-s to af-c/single to zone. You are absolutely right about not needing tracking af in the particular sequence I posted, but the problem lies with zone mode algorithms. First answer this question - Is the camera supposed to lock on the CLOSEST SUBJECT within the zone (either 3x3 or 5x3 in Ch) when using zone AF mode and continues to track if camera is put on af-c? If the answer is yes, fact that it locks onto the subject in the first few frames (note the four samples I posted wasn't every single shot in the sequence), lost the subject in the next couple (focused on background) and back onto the skater again means the zone af isn't that great after all. The skater was spinning at the same spot which means the camera to subject distance remained constant, which means in zone AF mode it SHOULD lock and continues to focus on the subject without jumping off. This alone shows the Fuji's zone implementation is flawed. Irrelevant to my problem, but thanks for pointing out another X-T1 shortcoming.

Seriously? That's your solution? Cl would not capture as many frames in such fast paced action. Besides burst speed has nothing to do with it. With fast action like this shooting Ch is a given.

I used all the right setting - AF-C, HP mode, MS only, Ch, 3x3 zone. The problem was at that distance as shown in my samples the 3x3 zone is simply too large and imprecise, it switched focus from the skater onto the background and back. Obviously single point would have been better but I couldn't keep switching the modes when actions were flying thru left and right. I used to be a 5D3 shooter and imo 4/8 points expansion would have been perfect in such situation. It's def something that Fuji can implement and improve further. Overall the update is better than nothing, but it's all of a catch up game and still clearly behind against its main competitors such as A6000, GH4, EM1 etc. by a fair margin.

I shot some ice skater yesterday and although I got some in focus shot I also have a lot of oof ones that goes straight to the bin. Problem is 3x3 zone is simply too 'loose'. Sure you can argue that I should use single point, but what I think is Fuji needs to implement something like Canon DSLR with 4/8 AF points expansion explained here - http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/1dx_af_pts_article.shtml (Page 2, 4 & 8 points expansion) Anyway samples below shows what I mean, images from a burst sequence - Oh well maybe I'm expecting too much, but I feel there's still plenty of room for improvements if Fuji gives us more flexible AF modes to improve it further.

In Australia retailers sell the graphite as the same price as black.... And guess which one I got

Compare the weight and portability of 18 and 27 again, there's negligible difference. I take the aperture ring and 1 stop faster aperture anyday. If focal length is non issue, would you use a 300mm for street if it's in pancake size? Of course you can, but then you're just using the wrong tool for the wrong job. Focal length is a number one pirority when choosing a lens for your intended usage, always has been.

Then you don't really get what is considered a 'street shot'. Taking photos outdoor doesn't make it a steets shot, same as using a telephone lens and taking a tight candid shot of a strangers on the street isn't a street shot neither simply because there's no 'street' when the background is blurred to oblivion. Sure photography is a matter of personal perferences, but there is certain tool that is more suitable for certain type of shot. Truth remains, 40mm is not really a street lens whether you like it or not.

IQ should never ever be your first priority of choosing a lens for your usage, focal length is. I just can't agree with choosing 27mm simply because it's slightly better optically which tbh can only be spotted when pixel peeping. Size and weight is a wash, and I much prefer having the aperture ring on the lens like my other X lens. 28mm is a very very popular focal length for street shots, just look at Ricoh GR and the new Leica Q. 40mm isn't wide nor versatile enough to truly capture the essence of streets imho. I took my GR to Japan last year, and now that I shoot with Fuji the 18mm replaces it. Here are a few examples - The close focusing ability of the 18mm is perfect for food shot as well which the 27mm can only dream of

So are you saying the 27 is that much better than the kit zoom @ 27mm? Same applies to 27mm? That's the whole point isn't it? Street lens is about being small, light and unobtrusive. Most importantly it's about the focal length. Kit zoom totally defeats the purpose.

Is the 18mm really that bad as everyone suggested? I have one and I find it sharp enough, I doubt there'll be any diff once both stopped down to f4 or smaller. For streets I'd say 28mm equivalent is way more usable than 40mm, one stop faster doesn't hurt either. In terms of size and weight they are both incredibly compact and light no one will find either intrusive. I pick 18 over 27 for streets any day....

Bulb mode?

Problem is the face detection option is universal. What happens if one has to switch between AF-S and AF-C constantly? For example I mainly shoot portrait and therefore naturally prefer to use face detection in AF-S for static, posed shot. And when I switch to AF-C and Cl I have to remember to switch face detection off orelse only CDAF is used. And after that I'll have to switch it on again when going back to AF-S and so forth.... To make the matter worse switching face detection on and off is a two steps process (hit right arrow and ok to confirm) unlike my X100T. What a pain!!

One question - in Ch mode one can't bring up the face detection menu whereas in Cl you still can? So does that mean it's disabled by default in Ch?

If only Fuji has ibis....this lens would be perfect for nighttime handheld shot....

^^ not sure if this helps, but I personally use the front custom button to change focus mode...