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Found 10 results

  1. It doesn’t work, no AF-improvement, it doesn’t focus between each shot in CL or CH, no faster AF in low light! This is some of the negative feedback we could read in the comments on FR and at the Fuji-X-Forum here. So what… is Firmware 4 just crap? Well, sometimes (often?) it’s just a matter to find the right settings. Patrick has made up an extended list of tipps: Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot in CL or CH tracking, if ES only (electronic shutter) or MS+ES is enabled. Shooting fast-moving subjects with the ES doesn’t really make sense (rolling shutter effect). Turn Off Face Detection! If you have Face Detection put to ON, the camera will focus only with CDAF. The faster Phase Detection AF (PDAF) works only if Face Detection is disabled. High Performance Mode ON: many don’t even know that this features exists, like Calipedro here. It’s definitely worth to sacrifice a bit of battery life. Fuji should put this feature ON as standard. Keep you subject in the center: Phase detection pixels are located in the center of the sensor. Keep your subject in the center and PDAF will give you a faster AF. Use all Phase Detection Pixels with Zone AF 5×3: To take advantage of all the phase detection pixels, set you Zone AF box to 5×3 and place it in the center of the frame. Within this 5×3 box tracking will be very smooth… at least that’s my experience with my crazy dog. Increase the size of the AF-box: If you use Single Point AF, increase the size of the AF-box as much as possible. PRE-AF: The camera will continuously adjust focus, even if the shutter is not pressed (of half pressed). This can help to get the first shot in focus quicker. Downside: more battery drain. LENS FIRMWARE: make sure that your Fujinon lens is updated to the latest firmware version. Different Lens, Different results: According to the lens you use, the AF-improvement will be more or less (or not) visible. For example, I was very happy with the improvement of my 55-200, but I can’t really say if the 18-55 or 14 has become faster. The learning curve: Practice and get used to the new features. See what works best in which situation Let Rico study for you. Rumors has it, that Rico will update his X-T1 book and tell us how to make the best out of our new Fuji X-T1 FW 4. Once it’s out, all we have to do is to read his updated book. So, do you have more tips? Then share them below!
  2. From the album: TPiorkowski

    Southport Harbor Southport, Connecticut May 2017 Fuji X-T1, 10-24MM
  3. Please could someone - preferably a wedding photographer give me their step by step workflow for processing Raws from Xt-1 ? - I didn't fully realise that they aren't best converted in LR so the thought of taking them via another converter seems like alot of extra work! - I have swapped from Canon for the advantages fuji offer in noise at higher iso so quality and sharpness is my primary concern. If I have to use another converter then ok but which one? And do I still use LR for tweaking exposure /colour etc - there are a lot of conflicting opinions out there! Also another prob is I have a windows 10 laptop and also an imac running yosemite so I do need some consistency between the two. Thankyou
  4. Hi, I've just bought the Fuji XF 100-400mm lens to go on my Fuji X-T1. Yesterday I tried it out for the first time, and straight away I have a problem, the image that I see in the EVF is great but when I take a photo and view it, the photo is very dark even though I'm shooting in daylight. I have already updated the firmware for the lens and my X-T1 has the latest firmware as well. The exposure dial is set to '0' so it's not that. Has anyone got a suggestion as to what could be causing this? I have the ISO set to 'A', shutter set to 1000. The lens is set to auto aperture, I've also tried manual aperture but got the same result. I'm fairly new to Fuji so it's probably some simple fix that I'm missing. Kind regards Mark
  5. I just switched from Nikon to Fuji about two months ago! I sold my Nikon D750, D5200 and lenses and bought the X-T1, X-E1 (backup body) and the X-100 as a travel camera. I also got the 56mm 1.2 R, the 23mm 1.4 and the Rokinon 10mm 2.8. I've done one wedding so far and several real estate jobs and I am in love with Fuji! Their lens selection is superb and their primes are to drool over. Knowing what I could get from their lenses was the deciding factor in my decision to switch. I'm in love with the X-T1. It has spoiled me for DSLR's. I never want to go back. There is something about shooting with Fuji's that inspires and is enjoyable. Fuji camera's also have some much class and style. In my opinion, the graphite silver X-T1 is the best looking digital camera on the market, followed very closely by the X100 series. I love photography and Fuji's enhance that love. They inspire creativity. I'm so happy to have the Fuji community to be able to connect with! Attached is a shot I got of my wife in a hotel room several weeks back. Taken with the X-100.
  6. For location / studio work requiring off-camera flash /or strobes, I currently successfully use a Canon EOS 5D Mark III DSLR with a Phottix Odin Wireless TTL Trigger Set & Receivers for Canon. These power a combination of Phottix Indra 500 TTL Studio Lights and a couple of Canon 600EX RT Speedlites. That said; I want to use my Fuji XT-1 on many occasions, given it's professional image quality and compactness. My questions are: Can I use my Phottix Odin Wireless TTL Trigger on the Fuji XT-1 hotshoe? If not, can I plug it into the 'remote release' port on the XT-1? I assume it will not be TTL, but will require me to set the flashed manually? Is the sync speed limited to 1/180, (as/per the Fuji XT-1 specs), or will the high-speed sync still operate on my Phottix Indra 500 TTL Studio Lights? Any help appreciated. With thanks in advance.
  7. Hello out there, my name is René van der Voorden, and I´m a professional concert photographer. I love shooting concert since about 35 years. Last year I sold my 20.000 € Nikon equipment with Nikon D3s and a lot of expensive glasses. It was not an easy step, but at least I´ve done it. From last year on the Fujifilm X-T1 is my new tool for this work. The High-ISO performance on the D3S is still a little bit better, but there are more advantages for me with the X-T1. The most important advantages for me: 1. Mirrorless. I see the result before I shoot. I can see everything through the amazing Viewfinder. Not necessary to take your eye from the Viewfinder to playback taken photos. 2. Noiseless. Some concerts are very quit (Classic, Musical, Jazz). I hate my Nikon D3S gun in this belongings and love my new quit tool. Sometimes it was not possible to shoot with Nikon because of the shutter-mirror-noise. 3. High ISO performance. Is good, but could be 2-3 stops better. On most concerts the light situation is very very bad. That could be improved. Because of my style of developing my photos with hard contrasts and pushing the shadows (and sometimes blacks), high ISO performance is even more important. 4. Tilting LCD is very handy for shoots from the FOH with audience in front. With my Nikon I was not able to compose a over-me-head shoot. A shame, that the X-Pro2 doesn´t have this handy feature, 5. Understatement. You´ll not be noticed as a professional photographer. I like that. 6. Size. No more words necessary. 7. Weight. My Nikon stuff was much to heavy to carry over long distances. 8. Feel. The X-T1 feels perfect. I love to have those manual dials to have quick access on the most important settings. 9. Viewfinder. The High-Res and magnification and the very small lag time is perfect for my work. 10. AF is quick enough. The accuracy is better than on my Nikon D3S. 11. Less rejects because of above mentioned. I can now concentrate on finding the perfect situation for my shoots. My work; Portfolio: http://www.van-der-voorden.com/portfolio/ Facebook: www.facebook.com/van.der.Voorden.Photography @Fujifilm: I would be very interested in testing (and giving feedback) the upcoming X-T2 for concert photography purposes. Please do not hesitate to contact me :-) Many greetings René van der Voorden
  8. Some pictures from a holiday trip to Madeira. Samyang 12 mm f/2.0 NCS CS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
  9. Here are a few pictures from last weeks Bergenfest in Norway. I am very happy with my first festival using only Fuji cameras. Check out the rest at AllDylan.com
  10. I got rid of all my canon gear except for the EFS 10-18mm lens for which I bought the fotodiox adapter on amazon. For some reason, the lens does focus to infinity at 10mm. It only focuses if I get very close to an object (at 10mm). At 18mm however, it focuses to infinity just fine. Any ideas why this is? Camera setting: Manual Mode Canon lens is also on manual focus I input the focal length of 10mm in the menu under lens mount adapter setting
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