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gordonrussell76

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Everything posted by gordonrussell76

  1. Shame, you should seriously look at Capture One as a) you don't have to pay for it, the Fuji version is free to users of Fuji. b) Capture one really does not have a big learning curve at all, people make out it does, and it put me off for a long while, and then I did it and it was great. It has a tool to import and covert your existing LR catalogue (whilst preserving the LR catalogue) c) There are options to configure the view and workflow to ape LR as closely as is possible to help you settle in. Google for a tutorial. G
  2. As well as any other camera. Its fine till you go below the auto focus low light threshold which I believe is -5, in practice I have not found it to be a blocker for flash photography outside or in studio, which is where I use them, YMMV
  3. Regarding better eyecup, the eye cup for the X-T1 is still available and fits the X-H1, which is what I personally use as its a flatter profile and works well with my glasses. Also the Eye Cup for the GFX 50S fits as well and some people have had great success with that cup. Both are available to order, or visit your FUji dealer first and ask to try them out before purchase.
  4. Two of the photo's have essentially identical levels of noise , the minor differences are most likely to be due to slight changes in ambient light and also crop levels. I suspect that the first photo without noise which is using one of Fuji's own auto modes is applying more Noise Reduction (baked in via auto mode) and that's why there is less noise, also correspondingly less detail in my opinion. Try this test shoot full manual again at the same settings Aperture f3.6, shutter 1/125 and ISO 200 but this time go into menu and set NR to +2/3 and see if the picture then matches the auto shot. G
  5. Old thread I know but something I have found with the 35mm F1.4 is more than any other Fuji lens it really rewards the mash the shutter button technique, (remember to set to focus priority in sub menu), if you half press it hunts and then by the time you have hit the shutter things have moved, If you just mash shutter in S_AF soon as it acquires focus it fires and I have found accuracy is actually better with this method. Interestingly as well on the X-H1 you get even more keepers with this method as the feather shutter introduces less of the jaring inherent in this technique and also has IBIS to further steady the ship. Oh and the 35mm is faster on the X-h1 anyway thanks to new AF algo's (coming to all the 3rd gen bodies in May. Its good times to be a Fuji user, especially when my first ever lens I bought in the system after the kit (5 Years ago), is still getting better thanks to firmware updates in the bodies.
  6. I suspect the reason they have included the 16-55mm as a lens kit is for the following reasons. 1) Many people have held off buying the 16-55 because it was not stabilized and because it was a big lens, the X-H1 solves both those problem by having IBIS and having a bigger grip so a lot of people may now take the plunge. 2) Currently the 18-55mm has been sold on so many cameras and then switched that you can pick it up on Ebay used for around £200-£250 on any given day, giving away more of them is only going to drive the price down further and anyone who wants one with there X-H1 will just buy one s/h plus body only package much cheaper than in any potential bundle. 3) The 16-55mm is seen as being the PRO zoom and the X-H1 is being marketed as the PRO camera in the line up. 4) Many buyers of the X-H1 will probably already own a 18-55mm, buying the bundle with 16-55mm is appealing as they can compare lenses and probably sell 16-55 for no loss, but,,,,, they might keep it, sensible marketing. Or they sell the 18-55 further reducing the overal cost of the X-H1 kit. Conclusion I suspect that the 16-55 and 18-55 price is going to drop a bit over the coming months along with the X-T2 price
  7. Update I sent the camera in to be checked as warranty was nearly up, they have replaced the powerboard? Whatever that might be, I have not had time to test it yet, but weirdy just using the camera for about 30 mintues while i installed new firmware on a couple of lenses and did the setup on teh camera (apparelty new powerboard wipes all your settings, a*se) and the base and left had side of the camera and screen were all getting very hot just through normal usage. I hope that its not going to be one of those issues that just never get resolved, or that like Meleman they eventually just give me a new camera. I have read somewhere taht all new X-T2 and X-Pro2 get hot on first few days of usage, I wander whether this is either the board 'burning in' or whether its capacitors charging up and once they have it will be back to normal service. It has also occured to me that previously my overheating of the sensor issue might have been caused by the heat sink not working properly and now that its doing its job the camera is getting hot as heatsinks oftern connect to body to dissapate heat externally. I am going to use it for a few days see if the heat goes away, and also stress test it with 4k consecutive shooting. I have to say Fuji did very quick turnaround I dropped it into my local shop last friday and picked it up today, 7 days. I am also going to buy the grip once I have this resolved to my satisfaction as shooting with 2 batteries in grip and none in body for extended 4k shooting shoudl resolve issue and also I wander if you keep using it without grip that is what cause my problem in the first place by stressing components. I will keep this thread updated with my progress. Oh and another thing they updated the camera to the new firmware for me as well which was very nice of them
  8. ps it may just been i need to man up and buy the grip, but I really don't need it for any other reason than the over heating. I don't need the additional boost and FPS and other stuff, i don't need the additional 30 mins recording time as most stuff i shoot in short takes, i don't even need the audio jack as I use a separate recorder and sync the audio in post......... So if there is a fault with the camera I would rather get it fixed now rather than throw money at an accessory that a) i don't need and might not actually fix it if its a genuine mechanical problem (like something not working optimally inside)
  9. Meleman What was wrong with your camera, its interesting because I had no problems with over heating and now suddenly I am getting issues, I get that you need the grip for intense stuff, but I am now having over heating in situations where I would not have before. I used to be able to do an hour of straight recording (with breaks every 9 mins or so to respect the max record time etc) but pretty much continous baring that. Recently was shotting some footage for my daughters school and it was getting very hot, I found it seemed to be the battery ( I was initially using the new battery that came with X-T2 but I found if I swapped it out to another battery that woudl get me going again for another 10 mins and then I had to swap again, I ended up juggling between 3 batteries just to keep things moving. I am going to take it into the shop I bought it and have it sent off to Fuji as its still under a 1 year full warranty post a repair they did, just wanted to have all the information at my fingertips so I don't get fobbed off. Something is definitely not right. For reference I am using Sandisk Extreme UHS3 cards with the high WRITE speed, and I have not changed cards, its been teh same cards and they have performed flawlessy before, its also the same batteries, so nothing has changed about the setup. The only difference was I was shooting with the 18-55 as well as 10-24 on this shoot where previously due to space i have used 10-24 exclusively, i lock off on a tripod and don't use OIS so both lens had this turned off so I can't think that is contributing to over heating unless the 18-55mm ois still draws some current even when switched off and the 10-24 does not, I don't find it likely. If you prefer to PM me details than share in the forum then that also would be great if you don't mind.
  10. Experiment with the metering modes, they may have an influence on how ISO and TTL interact when using flash. Also within the menu there is an option to apply ExComp setting specific to flash so if you find that its always to bright for your tastes you can set the Flash ExComp to -1 EV etc semi permanently in the flash menu. Just some ideas to try. G
  11. This old chesnut AGAIN. Just get Capture one and be done with it Works for me, few hints for people worried about tranisitioning to C1 1) This is for Mike Photo's - note you can import your old LR catelogue into C1 and it will do its best to recreate and translate the settings and processing you had performed in LR, its not 100% and its can't do all settings but it gets damn close and is a great place to start from if you are revisiting an old shoot. 2) Use Workspaces, you can customize your workspace to be as you want it, I use this a lot and have a workspace with all my most used tools in one place, hugely powerful. 3) If you are unsure where to start with workspaces, look in the menu and you will find that there are some legacy workspaces, including a Lightroom one, load this and it configures Capture One to be as much like LR as possible to help you transition your workflow. 4) Use the excellent series of C1 videos on their website, I watched them all and was up and running with about 90% of what I wanted to do in a couple of days. G
  12. This is maybe not going to help, but in your position I would have Bought the XT-20 and 18-55 plus another lens. The XT-20 unless you are doing video or sports is going to be more than enough camera, the WR is overstated I had an X-E2 and as long as you are sensible in the rain and own a plastic bag or two you will be fine. A second lens, especially a prime or two is going to make a huge difference to your experience and enjoyment way more than a few extra body features. In addition in a years time the S/H price of the X-T2 will drop and you will probably be able to swap the bodies when you have saved more cash. Bodies are boring, the lenses are where its at. I had a similar choice as you when starting out, I could get the X-E2 plus 18-55/35/55-200 or the X-T1 and 18-55/35mm I went with the X-E2 and 3 lenses a year down the line I got an Amazon warehouse deal on an X-T1 and sold my X-E2 Bodies lose value lenses don't as quickly and you will get more use out of them. I still have the 35mm and 18-55mm both great lenses. Oh and furthermore if I were in your position unless you really really need 4k the X-T1 is still a fantastic camera and dirt cheap at the moment, i just saw one on EBay going for £250 uk that is insane, you could pick up 3 lenses and have an amazing kit with that and grab an X-T2 in a year or so when the price has dropped if you even want to. I still prefer the look of the files out of the X-T1 generation sensors for portrait and street, the X-T2 additional resolution sometimes feels to clinical and the 16mp had something almost filmlike about its rendering of noise that is not quite the same in the X-T2 not saying X-T2 is bad, but I just finished editing a 3 week trip to Canada last year on the X-T1 and was blown away with how great the sensor on that thing is.
  13. Love the joystick use it at 91 focus points, honeslty rarely need the 321 and most of the time I do i just focus manually and the point is near enough to what i want to be in focus that it still shows up in the magnified view so all is good. I get why people would want it to be adjustable, but it does feel a bit like someone moaning about the design of the volume knob on a Ferrari, its like bigger picture here guys
  14. Its an additional EVF/LCD mode, you can change back to the way you are used to. Interestingly as you get to know this new mode its actually quite cool. Basically teh way it works is turn camera on, LCD will be on and show you the live view. Bring camera to eye, remove camera from eye LCD still in live-view. All is good and as before. Put camera back to eye EVF switches on, take a shot, remove from eye, low and behold automatic picture review with option to click OK. However and this is where it get interesting, put camera back to ey and EVF turn on automatically and you can carry on taking pictures until you again remove the camera from you eye and it will automatically show you the last picture on the LCD again in preview mode. Its basically an auto-chimping mode. Basically with this mode you shoot with EVF until you think you have a keeper and when you remove camera from your eye it automatically presses the play button for you, if your keeper turns out not to be sharp, put camera back to eye and carry on shooting, rinse repeat. I like using this mode with preview turned off (0 Secs) as then I get uninterrupted shooting through EVF, but if I want to check I just pull camera away from my face. Its great though because the whole time the camera is at your eye you can shoot seamlessly it will not stop you taking a shot, which is what annoyed me at first because I kept hitting okay before putting it back to my eye because that is what the screen told me to do, but its unnecessary, you only need to hit okay if you want to go back to live view on the LCD.
  15. Er the X-E2 which is the camera the OP states he has, got that feature in FW 4.0 he is correct in his statement that the X-E1 would not have been able to do it. Please see here https://www.dpreview.com/news/3187406995/fujifilm-x-e2-firmware-4-00-brings-classic-chrome-and-other-x-e2s-features and excerpt from release with pertinent line in bold and underlined. So I think the OP either has not updated firmware to the latest, or does not really understand how the EV control in manual works. Substantial firmware updates for the X-E2, delivering a new AF system for better capture of moving subjects among other improvements and function enhancements [ Improvements and function enhancements with this firmware update ] New AF System (1) New AF system with Zone and Wide/Tracking modes for effortless capture of moving subjects (2) Improvement of AF accuracy (3) Eye Detection AF (4) Auto Macro mode (5) AF improvement in the Movie mode Function enhancements (6) High-speed electronic shutter with a maximum speed of 1/32000sec.* (7) White Balance Bracketing (8) Enhanced ISO Auto Setting to AUTO1/AUTO2/AUTO3 (9) Exposure Compensation control in Manual. (10) Natural Live View function is just like the naked eye. (11) Finer lines on the framing grid enhances visibility (12) New Video Frame rates (50P / 25P / 24P) (13) Manual Shooting in Video mode (14) Phase detection AF support for Instant AF (15) Expansion of shutter speed in Program Shift mode Operability improvements
  16. Yup shooting less is good. I came back from a 3 week trip in Canada 8 months ago with 10000 images and I am still whittling it down to a usable 200. The irony is that hte shots I really thought about were all keepers and I knew they were at the time. I could have probably written a list of 30 shots on paper and then just gone and looked for those. However their is an argument that those 30 are so good because I sure put in a lot of practice with the other 9970 shots G
  17. Seriously guys, please don't bite peoples head off about Video. I have an X-T2 and I bought it for stills and I use it 95% of the time for stills, I am very firmly in the stills camp, although I do appreciate and enjoy having 4k available to me. Regardless that is not my point, my point is about this forum, Its always been a friendly place that reflects well on the Fuij user base. I think its very close minded and unfriendly to attack someone for wanting video to be encorporated and improved. The reality is that I want Fuji to be successful so that their lens line up continues to grow and they continue to make great strides in the camera. I have also followed the progress of other cameras closely and in my opinion AF for video has to be of a higher quality than for stills and I have seen that hybrid cameras AF has seen greater strides in improvement that stills focused cameras. I think what I am getting at, is did the addition of 4k make the X-T2 a worse camera, no it is still a phenomenal stills cameras, and in fact many of the additions might not have been possible if they could not have justified a bigger processor by the inclusion of 4k. I think we should be open to video development as it adds marketability and I am in fact convinced it also brings benefits to still shooters with no penalties. G
  18. I have had a few lens that do this, its not a major problem as the electric contacts are pin to flat square, as long as the play is not enough to take the pin off the sides of the square then you will retain electronic contact, as the play does not happen at the moment of the shot (unless you are doing some crazy zooming whilst in a very long exposure, it won't be a problem and even then it would probably not be noticable amongst the effect obtained by that technique, ie deliberately unfocused areas.
  19. OKay so you wnat to use EV dial to adjust exposure when you have manually set your Aperture or SS, well in Auto ISO mode you can do exactly that, the EV dial will adjust exposure up and down using ISO as the parameter that is adjusted. Assuming that the chosen Aperture and SS leave enough ISO bandwidth (e.g if you chosen settings means your exposure is centred on the meter at ISo 200 and you want to drop exposure by a stop, sorry you have run out of ISO, that is the physics of the camera and if you want to go lower with those settings you will need an ND fllter or you will have to compromise on SS or Aperture. This would be true in all cameras, although some cameras natively have a lower ISO floor, but you get my gist eventually you will hit it and the EV dial has nowhere to go) In full manual mode of course its impossible to adjust because its a closed system. There are only 3 parameters that can be adjusted to affect Exposure, ISO/Aperture and SS, if all are fixed, just what is the EV dial going to adjust? Sure you could set it so that in Full manual the EV still adjusted ISO, but that is a redundancy as its repeating the Auto ISO settings above whilst removing the option of a true full manual mode which is vital to a lot of still photographers (don't want there ISO to creep) and to a lot of videographers who don't want their exposure messed with once its set. So in conclusion the OP does not understand how his camera works, it is working as designed and gives him all the options that are possible without re-writing physics. G
  20. I have some sympathy for Fuji on this given it was the second failure. I am not going to accuse OP of using 3rd party batteries, as there is no evidence. However in the UK the quality of electric wiring in many of our houses is old, our national grid suffers surges, and some people often use questionable amounts of gang 4 plugs etc. There are many reasons why his charger may have failed, and I think Fuji suspected after a second failure in such a short period of time that the root cause was not the charger, but where it was plugged in. Better customer relations would have been to maybe asks some questions and offer advice as to a better way to utilize the charger to prevent this happening again, it woudl no take away the financial sting but it would have a least added a constructive element to the conversation. G
  21. The X_T2 will be superior to you iPhone for video for many other reasons than Bokeh, Higher bitrate video files, bigger sensor, so that F8 will give you a much much shallower depth of field relatively than the F8 on the iPhone. I don't think anyone has ever bothered doing equivalence as its so huge a difference. Oh and the sensor is twice the resolution at 24mp although the Iphone 7 at 12Mp probably has greater pixel density. Oh and the colours will probably be better. Bottom line bokeh does not maketh the shot in video apart of in some very specific applications. Its just another tool in the paint box. I used to think the same bokeh bokeh, I remember when I got my first GH1 and a 25mm F1.4 it was all bokeh here we come. The reality is that the lens hunted a lot and it was very distracting. Over time and real world use I have found that F4-F8 is a very good place to be for a lot of shooting situations. But enjoy experimenting and who knows your bokeh tastic productions may make me eat my words Have fun
  22. From what I have read about TTL cords, most people say that the Fuji hot shoe is most like Canon and recommend buying a Canon TTL lead, you could maybe extrapolate from that that the best option is to get the Canon Moonlight, however I would try before you buy/order from an online store with a good returns policy as that will be the only way to be sure. I am not sure that wireless TTL will work with Fuji, no one has managed it yet, the closest are cactus who say its coming in there next firmware. That is another altenative by the way for the cost of that light you could buy 3x Cactuc RF60's which would give you the same guide number if you mounted them together, and will give you remote wirless TTL triggering in the next update. Plus you woudl also have a smaller 3 light set up as well Just thinking outside the box, obviously if you need 3 monologhts, then 9 Cactus's might be overkill G
  23. I think you can have the focus point stay the same size, under the same menu option that turns on AF point moves with orientation there are two options one is AF point only, the other is ALL AF setting, if you choose all AF settings then it remembers the last AF size you used in that orientation. For example if you were in landscape in Single Point AF with a very small Focus area and then moved to Portrait switched to Zone focus 5x5, when you went back to landscape it woudl switch back to Single point small, and then when you went back to portrait it would be back in zone. I think if you switch to AF point only or whatever the setting is called that is not ALL, then your point will move, but it won't reflect any size or type changes you have made. Hope that helps/works for you. I am still learning the new features myself.
  24. I have SS on the back dial, you still have to press the front dial in to access ISO mode first time. I assume this is to avoid accidental change. SO I suspect, without playing around to much, your best bet is to swap SS to the back dial at least that way each dial will be doing something, even if its not your preferred configuration. G
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