Jump to content

Recommended Posts

A large number of threads and comments here are from people who have some sort of reliability problems with their camera. I have owned about 30 cameras over the years (including 3 Fujifilm), a mixture of new and recent used, and have never had any problems, even with cameras I have used heavily over a long period of time.

I therefore believe breakdowns and malfunctions are very rare but the fact that people post about them gives a misleading impression. I don't know whether there's a way to create polls (if there is and I can't find it I apologise for my stupidity!) but if not maybe people might just like to comment here if, in their experience, cameras are actually extremely reliable.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The only camera body failure I had was deterioration of the light seals - after about 30 years of use. I rebuilt that camera about 10 years ago, and it is as good today as the day I bought it. A Nikon FE. Digital has it perks, but I really miss film.

Getting into this century though, I had a dumpster load of failure with electronic cameras both film and digital. But this is the key point - every single one of those failures was user error. All my own fault.

I think today's cameras are beyond amazing, probably to a fault. But for quality and reliability, I like the Fujifilms, given today's shutter loads and electronic complexity.

What would I like my next large purchase to be? A bunch of film for my Nikon.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting. I attempted to calculate all the various cameras and bodies owned since 1979 and I think it's about 30 - 35. I have never had a faulty new camera. Lenses yes, many times. Decentering was the most common issue. 

Like all reviews, you always hear about the negative 100 to 1 over the positive.

When you're unhappy, the keyboard warrior in some comes out!

(in my last century IT positions, we had a saying, "It's a PEBCAK error" Problem exists between chair and keyboard)

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've only had one issue with ONE camera (Fujifilm S2 Pro) and that includes owning between 1973 and today:

Minolta SR-T101 (my sister still owns it)

Minolta X-E7 ( I still own it and it still works)

Digital: Fuji 4900z 4.3 megapixel - outstanding camera

Nikon 8700 8mp - never had an issue through sale

Nikon 300 6mp - never had an issue through sale

Nikon D700 12mp - Still use it and still works perfectly with over 200,000 images

RB67 Pro Medium Format

2 ea Mamiya 645 AFD Medium Format

2 ea Yashicamat Twin Lens reflex

Fujifilm S1 Pro - ONE of the BEST early digital cameras with gorgeous colors and a Base ISO of 320, 3.2mp

Fujifilm S2 Pro.  The S2 Pro developed a bad sensor and Fuji in Edison replaced the sensor, and shutter free of charge with a. two day turnaround after I dropped it off.

X-E1 - never had an issue

X-T1 still own it.  Rubber grip started to come loose and I used gorilla glue to fix it

X-T2 Camera took a salt water bath and self-destructed.  Not worth repairing per Fuji's repair estimate, sold for parts

X-H1 - Still shoot with it never had an issue

G50R and 100S. -- Haven't had an issue.  Fingers crossed I don't

 

Edited by jlmphotos
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've owned more cameras than I can remember and have only had three issues and they're all with Fuji cameras. The first was the electronic board on my X-T10 failed and I sent it in and had it repaired by Fuji. The second is the rear control dial on my X-P1 is working erratically and I found that Fuji US is no longer repairing them. The third was the skin and door on my X-T1. The skin came off and the door warped where it would no longer close. Unfortunately it happened outside the replacement Fuji had offered and I paid to have it re skinned and a new door installed.

Link to post
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, itchy shutter finger said:

The only camera body failure I had was deterioration of the light seals - after about 30 years of use. I rebuilt that camera about 10 years ago, and it is as good today as the day I bought it. A Nikon FE. Digital has it perks, but I really miss film.

Getting into this century though, I had a dumpster load of failure with electronic cameras both film and digital. But this is the key point - every single one of those failures was user error. All my own fault.

I think today's cameras are beyond amazing, probably to a fault. But for quality and reliability, I like the Fujifilms, given today's shutter loads and electronic complexity.

What would I like my next large purchase to be? A bunch of film for my Nikon.

Light seals are something you'd expect to need replacing eventually anyway. I used an FM2, close relative of the FE, for over a decade with no problems at all.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

My cameras.

Some point and shoots from the 80's, never a problem.  Film cameras.

A Konica/Minolta - Flawless

Ricoh something or other - Flawless

Pentax - K-x - Flawless (really enjoyed this camera)

Sony RX100Mii - the mode dial on one setting started to malfunction

XT20, XH1, XT4, and now XH2S - all FLAWLESS

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have owned quite a few cameras over many years (I am 74 and had my first camera aged 18). Apart from accidents I have had the following problems. The metering in my SRT101 failed. My Minolta xd7 suffered from peeling leatherette, but otherwise was my favourite camera ever. My Mamiya 645 1000d 80mm lens developed sticking aperture leaves. My Mamiya 645 Super shutter failed spectacularly- shutter blinds hanging out! My Minolta Dynax7D battery cover became impossible to latch and I had to tape it up to prevent the battery falling out. My Fuji X-T1 flash sync failed and I had the main board replaced under warranty. My X- T3 developed a faulty exposure compensation dial and I had to pay for that one. Probably not bad for 56 years of photography!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Thank you. I am a pathetic beginner- in way over my head with this camera. Your info is great. I will practice this tonight on cars driving by my street.
    • It seems good you were able to find an answer to your question shortly after posing it. As to your remaining question, can you give some more details? Because what you are describing is very unusual. Which card reader were you using to move the images to your computer? Were you double clicking the card’s disk image to open it and then using the finder to select all of the images you wanted to move, then dragging them over to a folder on your Mac? Did you use the eject command before removing the card from the card reader? There are a couple of things to also try. Take a few new images using a freshly formatted card, put the card in the reader. Open the app Image Capture and use it to move the photos. Use the eject command before removing the card and see it the card is still messed up. If so, try again, but this time before putting the card in the reader, slide the write protect switch on the card to the protect spot. [The write protect switch is a small little tab on the side of the card.] Move the images, which safely eject the card and put it back in the camera. Let us know how things go — uh yeah sometimes it can take a while to get an answer. https://support.apple.com/guide/image-capture/welcome/mac
    • I reply to myself, as - after searching and experimenting this and that during several days - I found today the reason to my problem... Should I tell that, as I haven't got any comments from you, the community? Ok, jokes apart. THE point is that the option Auto update custom settings under Image quality settings needs to be ENABLED! Well, as the manual is so obscure, not specific, with too short explanations and too general, I needed some 1-2 weeks (of course not day and night to find the solution. Anyway, now my X-T50's ISO setting holds, to that I set it. By the way, the camera with the quality of the pictures, is great!!!! I love X-T50 after my reliable Nikon. Well, one more thing, I would like this working: I transfer pictures to my Mac by using the app Photo transfer by wire because it is hazardous to take the memory card from the camera and put it to my MacBookPro because after Mac's reading the X-T50 doesn't recognise it any more!! Nothing but formatting the card *in my Nikon* helps, to get X-T50 to work with the card. So are there for this second issue any solutions??
    • Welcome to the forum. There are some sports oriented photographers that stop by now and then that may give you better tips. You did not mention your photography background, so please forgive me if I say something you already know. Practice. Practice. Practice. Your son might be happy to indulge this 😀. Set the lens to auto focus and for now, concentrate on the three basic parts, shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Set the ISO around 800 to 1600. This may seem too bright for a sunny day, but it will give you room to use the aperture and shutter speed without the scene getting dark. If the lighting is darker, use ISO 1600 to 6400. Set the f-stop on the lens to around 5.6, this should give you enough depth of field (the sharp in focus part) to get his face and most of his bike — this will also depend on how close you are to him — while blurring some of the backgound. As you get used to what this aperture does at the distance you are from him, try other settings, wide open (the smallest f-stop number) can give you very pleasing results as can f16. Remember you are focusing on him, not taking landscape photos, so the background blurring is going to be different. And the last part, shutter speed. Start around 1/400. The higher the shutter speed, the less motion blurring you get and the more the foreground will seem in focus. This is why you need the higher ISO, because higher shutter speeds will make the image go very dark. Try a bunch of the speeds. There is an art to getting the right blurring for the shot, from none at all to massively blurred. Then back to the practice part. After this, those other things on your camera are there to give you options in your approaches. You might set Auto ISO up so you can concentrate on shutter speed without worrying what rapidly changing sky clouds are doing to the images. Or how to use the back lcd as a focus aid, etc. Bring in these new options in a few at a time. Oh yeah, take the lens off auto focus mode and see how you like that, it does work.
    • Hi, A couple of months ago I picked up my first fujifilm camera, the X-E2s. Been using it since then with a manual 25mm focus lens, works perfectly fine. But recently I've bought a fresh, af lens, the 35mm f/1.8 from ttartisans. And I've been having issues with it. Mainly, I've experienced weird problems with aperature control, since the lens has no aperature ring, its controlled electronicly. When setting the aperature control to manual, the aperature blades move randomly when setting a fixed aperature. The lens is often closed on high f value. This problem really ruins the photos when trying to shoot in low light and I'm trying to set aperature to like f/2 but the lens is still stuck at very high aperature (I can see the blades closed) even though I've set it correctly on the camera. Other times, when shooting in medium to bright light, the aperature keeps changing randomly, even when I set it to manual and to a fixed value. It's almost like breathing. Also sometimes when I get it to move, it seems that the aperature blades can't open beyond something like f/4. It reaches the opening of f/4 and stays there even when trying to open it more in camera. Of course the values in camera can change, the problem is with the lens aperature blades. And so my question is, is it normal, it working this way? This is my first experience with lenses without aperature ring, I don't know about any mechanics that would explain the lens acting this way. Would really appreciate some feedback, I'm pretty new in photography and I'm just trying yo wrap my head around on how to use this beautiful camera. 😎
×
×
  • Create New...