flysurfer

You should try Portrait Enhancer in the X-T10, X-A2, X-A1 or X-M1. Now that's real waxing.

Unlikely.

This was a known issue since February 2014. That's why I had my first X-T1 repaired for the light leak and the self-destroying command dials (another known issue) in early 2014. My battery grip is also affected (according to its serial number), but since it still works, I won't have it repaired until it breaks. Of course, this may happen out of warranty, but Fuji Germany will still fix it free of charge, anytime. At least here in Germany, there is no "pro" service, yet. No need to introduce one, though, as everybody gets this stuff fixed under warranty for 2 years and will also get a loaner for the time of repair if he asks. So the situation is pretty relaxed and everybody has a camera for their summer vacation. Known issues (like SAB) are basically fixed free of charge as long as spare parts are available. Of course, a "pro" service might still be useful here, but with a different set of additional services and benefits. The repair and service part is already handled in a pretty professional and customer-friendly way. That doesn't mean that there aren't any issues at all, but if you have a look at service related threads in the German X forums, they are mostly filled with praise. Which is quite uncommon on the Internet.

Why did you buy a used camera with known issues in the first place? If unknown, the previous owner has to take it back. Very strange. Luckily, 2 years warranty here in Germany, anyway, so they fix stuff free of charge. Free shipping, too, in both directions. And a free loaner for the time of repair, if one asks.

Seems to be a very widespread issue.

You can change ISO with any command dial, front or back, or you can also use the up and down selector keys. You can use any of the 7 Fn buttons to pull up the ISO setting in order to change it. You can also use the Quick Menu to pick a new ISO setting. Additionally, you can store different ISO settings in your 7 Custom Settings, so changing ISO by selecting a different custom set is also an option. Obviously, the X-T1 is much more limited "thanks" to its manual ISO dial. Hence no ISO in the custom settings and only one global Auto-ISO choice.

I like it! Keep them coming!

Seems like the emergency battery (or condensator) is weak. That's why never store cameras w/o a battery.

Interesting. The interpolation of the green PDAF pixels seem to show in this stacked example.

It's pretty bad, alright. X-Trans video, that is. Bayer video is fine.

Sure. It's not Sony's DRO, after all. More like Active D-Lighting, but more powerful.

It's a combination of camera and lens. Almost all of my all-time top-viewed images (with more than 40k views each) were taken with the X-T1 and the XF56mm. Simple SOOC JPEG samples, nothing fancy. Currently, almost all of my daily top-view pics were taken with the X-T10.

That's why I'm puzzled by users who change camera systems like underware. Today Fuji, tomorrow Sony, then Olympus. I envy them, because it takes me months to fully understand one (!) system: the sensor, the DR expansion scheme, the autofocus system etc. Those guys must either be geniuses, or they have no clue what they are actually doing. There are so many details that are worth knowing. For example: Fuji has the LMO, and other brands now offer something similar (and yet different), but what exactly is the LMO affecting? Trust me, it's about more than just reducing diffraction, as the LMO influences at least two more factors that Fuji isn't talking about. That's why I'm glad that Fuji isn't introducing 3 new sensors every year, like Sony is doing. I'd have a hard time catching up. Keeping X-Trans II for 3 years helps me, as I find more time taking pictures instead of studying how the new sensor works and behaves when pushed to or over its limits. And where are those limits, anyway? We need to know, but it takes time to find out. Make no mistake: These retro cameras may look "simple", but in reality, they are sophisticated "camera simulators", almost like a flight simulator. With the exception of the zoom ring, not a single button, dial or control is hard-wired, not even the on/off switch or the aperture ring. There's plenty of high-end computer magic happening under the hood, and some of it just isn't trivial. And since Fuji doesn't reveal much useful information about all this, we have to find out for ourselves.

Also remember that "open aperture" AF metering is only available in AF-S and MF (Instant-AF) modes. Not in AF-C mode. Instead, AF-C is always using the working aperture of the shot. This is also important for daylight shooting, as stopping down in AF-C will increase your DOF, but it will at the same time decrease the chance that the camera can still use the fast predictive PDAF instead of the slower CDAF to track your subject. So stopping down can actually mean that your action series works less well (= less keepers) than shooting the same scene with a wide open lens and less DOF. That's why it's important to know how your camera actually really works. Since Fuji doesn't explain any of this, I spend countless hours "reverse engineering" such details, then sharing them in forums, blogs, books and workshops that cover such "secrets". It's simple news to use. It's also important to understand the effects that Face Detection can have on AF performance. I have seen many users always keeping it turned on, which is clearly a mistake. Other users have problems determining proper settings for AF-S and AF-C priority: Release or Focus? It depends, but as long as you exactly know what these options are doing, you can improve your keeper rate. Not to mention users that keep their camera at factory settings for parameters such as Power Management and not enabling High Performance Mode. Terrible mistake. And how does/can Pre-AF influence your AF performance? Are there instances where Pre-AF is actually recommended? Well, yes, but certainly not always, so don't turn it on by default. How do Single-Point AF frames actually work in firmware 4? What's the practical difference between CDAF and PDAF, what does each of these two AF methods "like" in a subject? How can we use this information to increase AF speed and accuracy by pointing the camera at patterns and objects that either the CDAF or the PDAF are particularly fond of? In my world, that's useful information, too, so we are practicing this kind of stuff in our workshops. What about AF zones? Yep, they are new, but how do they actually work, and how can we use this information to increase our AF keeper rate? And what's the difference between an AF zone in AF-S and one in AF-C, anyway? Or let's talk about the new WIDE/TRACKING. Pretty much useless in concert with AF-S, but very useful in concert with AF-C. At least in some scenarios, where real "3D tracking" is required. The more features and options we get, the more homework we have to do. For me, it's not about trusting the autofocus. It's about knowing it.

Actually, only shutter speed and aperture. And ISO, but not always. And the DR setting.

The T1 is newer and more popular, so more users are searching for samples taken with this camera. Of course, your T1 shots could simply be more attractive, too.

MILCs can use the maximum aperture of the lens (such as 1.4 or 1.2), while DSLRs autofocus with dedicated sensors that can't make use of anything brighter than f/2.8. So with MILCs like Fuji X, it really depends on the lens you use. Use a bright lens (even if you stop down for the shot) and your low-light AF experience will improve.

I'd appreciate a larger printer, too.

I like the acceleration feature. It's an actual benefit of "by wire" technology. Maybe they can add an option to turn the acceleration on and off? I'm sure if several dozen users write to Fuji wanting such an option, it would be seriously on the table.

They fixed both issues.

No. Yes.

Best use the built-in Fuji RAW converter for this. One major purpose of Lightroom is to equalize the RAWs from countless different camera models from different brands with different sensors from the past 10-15 years to a common denominator, so settings and presets (selfmade and commercial) work with all of them. Lightroom is the big equalizer. Lightroom will never be able to perfectly emulate the Fujifilm look, especially not the smooth highlights from Fuji's DR function. It's lacking the features to do so. Iridient will lead to better results. So will AfterShot Pro, btw (which I recently tested out of curiosity, but that software has other issues).

That depends on the RAW converter that is used. There are more than a dozen converters out there that support X-Trans to some extent, so somebody could make a list that should at least include lens metadata corrections, DR settings and Fuji film simulations. I already did that work to some extent with several popular converters (LR, Iridient, Aperture, Silkypix, PhotoNinja, Capture One) in my book, but there's always more, so feel free to add to the list. Almost all metadata settings and maker notes are stored in the RAW file, as well, but there are a few exceptions. To see the differences, all one has to do is open a RAW and a corresponding SOOC JPEG in ExifTool and compare the EXIF contents.

RAW data is only affected by exposure, so only settings that affect the exposure will affect the contents of the RAW file. Things like aperture, shutter speed, exp. comp, ISO and DR come to mind.

It's a nice start.