Vidalgo

From Fujifilm FAQ: http://faq.fujifilm.com/digitalcamera/faq_detail.html?id=110200595&pnum=1823

And you expect the printer to print to twice the size (wide vs. standard) will be the same as a small SP-1 and you can do the same bag?

I'm not worried about the absence of WR (but nice to have it anyway). I would like to see an improvement at uniformity of center/edges resolution, at least at the some middle apertures. That important for landscapes and other similar tasks. I like pancake lens format and happy with XF27, but don't own XF18 only due to the reason above.

Did you tried Canon Selphy printers?

Even without a zoo, there are animal farms. Be careful

Star movement is like to motion blur, it has nice predictable trace and can be zeroed with help of software later.

Stacking is basic function for every HDR software, Photomatix for example. Photoshop also do stack, for my version CC 2015 it's very simple: Files -> Scripts -> Load files into stack. Another Photoshop way is more tricky: File -> Automate -> Photomerge -> open files to be stacked. In fact, this Photoshop script make panorama from opened files, but because we take files with the same scene, the result will be not panorama but copy of scene with some averaging of stacked pixel luminosity, so it works as denoiser.

Since shot taken with a tripod (I believe), you can make several shots and stack all together at post-processing. Noise will be lowered.

I think, when going to replace one hood to another for any reason, it's a good time to remember why a hood intended for. And how a specific hood optically matched (yes!) to particular lens. Otherwise there are countless reasons for replacing and, while main hood's job is shaded, easy to finish with some aesthetic add-on to the lens who just stops to be the good lens hood. For example: if protection is target, why not attach rubber hood, it best for shock absorbing job. Even it works a bit as a hood.

No, I hate this trick. What can I do with dirty end of this chain, start to apply condoms? And trick just doesn't work in snow, water, or sand dune.

By the way, a short neck strap lets a new feature when used on the neck and at the same time on the left shoulder. Photographer's body became a good steady tripod.

When I got X-T1, I was very disappointed for its stock leather strap and immediately put a simple fabric strap from my old camera (curiously also Fuji). The strap has not fancy soft bumpers, anti-slip etc, just strip of fabric 1 inch wide, so it takes minimum space in bag. I usually wear a shirt instead of T-shirts, and the weight of the camera is relatively small, so the use of the neck strap is not uncomfortable for me. The length of the strap is adjusted to a minimum so that the camera hanging just above the start of the abdomen. In such position the camera very well controlled and protected from something outer while both hands are free (and they can further protect the camera by sabers and pistols ) I am mostly a travel photographer in urban areas where using of neck strap has natural look. When I walk in risky areas, I use strap as a wrist strap just by wrapping it around the wrist hand. It's a bit tricky and adding of a grip to the camera required, but works fine, can keep the camera for hours without discomfort. I could never understand the meaning of wearing the camera floating on a long strap somewhere on the side or rear. If you are not expected to use the camera in next half-hour or so, is anyway better to put it in a bag.

Note there is 14mm f/2.8 prime lens with the same 58mm filter size.

Thanks for info. That remote control function isn't important for me, but I tried it once with my Android tablet, Nexus 7, and got exactly the same poor communication, with unexpected losses. It was very frustrating. Probably in a next days I will check these settings to get stable work.

Good point, thanks.

Nope. For every lens, IQ degrades from center to edges, less or more. Rectangle sensor gets part of the image circle, with best resolution in the center and some soft corners/edges. With square crop of the same sensor we get less pixels, true, but overall picture quality is best due to best optic resolution and uniformity. With bigger square sensor we probably get more pixels, but most of these extra pixels falls to areas with lesser quality goes from lens, so uniformity will drops and we get even lower overall quality.

Just as an option. I have a 1.54x teleconverter from Raynox (and 2.5x model exists as well) which just can be screwed to lens filter thread. So teleconverted longest Fuji's 230mm became 354mm. It works, but adds various distortions from center to edges, and sharpness lowers a little. Color rendering also differs. Vignetting. A bit pricy. Bulky. Despite on all drawbacks, it still an usable instrument when capturing from long distance and IQ less important. Here is a sample taken when I tried figure out what can I do with Fuji 50-230 and Raynox 1.54x. Note the blurry bottom part even after downsizing to 0.5MP.

I'm using screen protectors from protectionfilms24.com for years, for cameras and other gadgets with screens. Cheap, clear, and effective against occasional scratches, leave no residues when removed. I don't ask more.

I'm very interested in 55-200 Mk2, with better AF and WR added.

Perhaps a camera's robber would prefer a standard exterior look but no one of such fancy modded. So, deep exterior customization has some sense.

I'm staying with XF 18-55. For long tele I keep XC 50-230 in my bag, may be I'll replace it for XF 55-200. Hey Fuji, it's good time to make 55-200 Mk2

What to do with X100T and each model below, in the current Fuji list? All with glued lens, so no mount appears. And all within "X Fujifilm" series as an opposite to "FinePix" series.

Perhaps, the manual focusing ring have not any mechanical link to movable lens and acts as encoder. It sends signal of own position to the camera, then processor makes calculations and sends control signal back, to the lens motor. While signal from encoder is unchanged, motor holds movable lens at the same position, and should to do it constantly. If at this moment remove power from motor, released movable lens can be easy shifted to wrong position, because an external forces are exists and applied (gravity, acceleration, shaking, etc.) These external forces are always applied in an complex and unpredictable way, and motor servo system feels them through some sensors and fights for control. So we can hear a product of this fighting. It's not dependent of motor type, it's system dependent. Such system called "focus-by-wire", it's relatively simple, precise, robust, and allows give to us all options: AF, MF, AF+MF. And constantly draws some power from battery. But different motors produces different sounds, of course. Noted above sensors they are also parts of OIS, they are never stops and serves to the OIS system and to the focusing system simultaneously. Sensors (gyro + accelerometer for each axis) they are inaudible.

Beware! There is a "new lens factor". Each new lens, no matter what it is exactly, wants to constantly sit on the camera and shoot shoot shoot shoot shoot shoot ...

You need to keep yours things well controlled and secured on busy Barcelona's streets, so lens swapping may be a bit problematic sometimes. Then versatile 18-55 will be good option for most of time. With 12 and 50-230 in the bag when you are really need it. Probably 12mm will be more frequently used than long lens. I had big problems when visited Sagrada Familia and had only 24mm on wide end.