Jürgen Heger

Have a look at the Leica lens line up. They have multiple lenses with the same focal length but different speed. The Pro 1 was and the Pro 2 will targeting Leica fans who cannot affort the original. So the 35/2 will be a perfect fit.

@Phil If you need iSO 12800 RAW just set ISO to 6400, underexpose by one stop and push accordingly in the processing. This is exactly what the ISO setting would make, with the exception that withiut ISO setting the EVF will be one stop too low. The Fuji sensor is ISOless. So there is no amplification or so to increase the number of electrons per light when you increase the ISO setting. Rico and others have explained that. I believe Canon do have sensors with true ISO settings. But as amplification also increases noise the overall performance seems to be not better at the same sensor size and time of development.

@MacModus I really like picture 1

Same size probably would be ok for me, however, more likely I will wait for an E-3

After a few text contributions from me in other threads now an image. I mean this is what it is all about. It is the first time ever that I publish a picture. Pelicans in the Zoo of Hanover, Germany. X-T1, 55-200/3.5-4,8 R LM OIS at 55mm, 1/90s, f3.5, ISO 200, SOOC

So we have a new item for our wish list for future firmware updates: Disable OIS when shutter speed is faster than xxxx

Now we know that it is operanut1972 and not technical problems why Fuji has delayed the Pro2.☺

Nice comparison by JamesBernard. However, it only shows that Lensbaby Inc have not promissed too much. The look of a 1920s portait lens. That is what they claim on their web site and demonstrate in their gallary.

Since no one from the experts has answered the original question I made a very unscientific test in my living room. I could not see a significant difference. I was using X-T1 with FW 4.0 XF18-55/2.8-4.0 with FW 3.12, always at 18 mm XF 18/2.0 with FW 3.10 Focus distance approximately 1 to 6 m Aperture, shutter and ISO was set to Auto. AF to S, priority to focus, center AF field AF modus single Face detection off High performance ON At ISO 3200, open aperture, shutter speed was about 1/4 (2.8) and 1/8 (2.0) It took about 1 sec until the focus was locked. The zoom has a much quiter focus mechanism. The prime felt much more mechanical. However, to my surprise most of the time the distance shown in the view finder was wrong! Actuel distance about 5m, locked distance anything from below 2 m up to 10 m. No difference between the lenses. Only in a few cases no focus was found. In some cases there was focus hunting. My feeling is that in these cases the locked focus was quite accurate. As I mentioned inthe beginning my test is not very sientific, so I did not really count. Multiple times focussing at the same point was not much faster and the lens was moved back and forth. This would be typical for contrast AF or hybrid AF. I am not sure if my observations are of some help.

To me it looks like Ken Rockwell mostly makes positive reviews. Within the review for product A he compares a detail with product B. Typically this details is much better on product A. The reader may understand that A in total is better than B even if this was never said anywhere. Typically when you are searching the internet for a specific review you are valready interested in the product. If the reviewer can convince you that the product is good there is a chance that you are using one of the links on his site to buy it and the reviewer gets his commision. My feeling is that this is more or less true for all reviews in the internet. But what do I know.

I forgot: - fix for the AF at low light issue with the 55-200 that some have reported.(If it really exsists. I have not noticed it, but I have used my 55-200 only at day light so far.)

- Distance and depth of field displayed in MF mode - Maybe more than 30 seconds in T mode - Faster AF down to -3 EV

It seems the common understanding is that high end DSLRs have a faster AF than the Fuji X-T1. However, this seems not to be longer true, when the DSLR is in live view mode. See:http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Canon_EOS_5D_Mark_III I found this when I was looking for a review of the Nikon D750 which has even a tiltable screen. But when you shoot holding the camera ever your head and looking at the tilted screen then you will get a much slower AF than with the X-T1. The D5 III does not even have a tiltable screen. Of course, this is a very special use case and may not be relevant for you. I think, at the moment what ever we choose is a compromise in one or the other way.

I have never published a single picture so far. So I feel a bit unfair when I criticise your pictures. Neverthelaess I want to share my thoughts. You present a strange mixture of pictures. Some of them I like very much. The Peugeot, the pig, the horse, the 'shouting' donkey,the peacock they have a good idea, a good composition and/or a good timing. The lake with the young lady is completely against the book. The fountain grows from the head of the lady. Normally I am not sensible with this rule but in this case even I would prefer if you had moved a little bit to the side. But beside this I really like the picture. It shows a real world idyll. Not perfect, not staged but still a nice place to be. The picture with the boy on the donkey I would have taken if I knew the boy but I would not have published it. I have taken pictures myself with a much worse composition but I would not show case them. They are nice as a personal souvenir but not more. From some pictures I do not get the idea why they were taken and even less why you published them. Pictures like the Bikini I would not have published (now). The art works on the car is interesting. To me the photographer did not add anything. So it is mainly a souvenir for the photographer. Maybe in a couple of years this becomes a historical document. There are other images in this forum where I feel the same. What I do like is that you shared your experiments with motion (blur). Again I do not really get the idea.. hm, after looking a third or fourth time on DSCF6338 I see that it has a nice effect and it is interesting to look at it. But most of all I welcome your courage to share and discuss your experiments. I think all less experienced members like myself can learn a lot from your failures and your successes.

I fully agree with ychen and some others that some of the new features are pretty complicated to use. They remind me a little bit to the scene modes that some cameras have. Instead of selecting one of the zillion scene modes becore each shot I always found it easier to set my camera to professional mode (P) and take care of special light situations myself. Probably some of the current restrictions result from hardware limitations of the T1 and Fuji just tried to make the best out of it. I guess we have to wait for the Pro2/T2 or Pro3/T3 or even longer, until Fuji makes a camera where no one will argue any more that it cannot compete with professional DSLRs for sports or wild life photography. Nevertheless I appreciate that the low light performance of the AF seems to have improved and that Fuji in general tries to improve their cameras with firmware update. May be they sometimes take the mouth a little bit too full. I guess this is how marketing works. But most of all I appreciate that FW 4.0 did not break any exsisting feature at least I am not aware of it and that my T1 and E1 are still wonderful cameras with or without updates where I have a lot of fun with.

@Harlem Don't you know that it is forbidden to use the X-Pro1 for sports and action photography? The autofocus is too slow. Everyone knows that. BTW, nice pictures.

For those who don't like variable start aperture on zooms: May be Fuji could just include in the next firmware update lower and may be upper limits for the aperture similar to the limit of the shutter speed in the Auto ISO settings. This should not be too difficult. Then people can decide if they want to benefit from the faster aperture at the wide side or if they want a lens with slower but constant aperture.

Hi Trenton, I like your pictures on your daily photo blog. BTW, making it a blog about Margarete's jumps wouldn't be the worst idea you could have. As I have never published any pictures so far it seems a too difficult task for me start with a daily blog. But I will enjoy to follow your work.

Manual controls and size and cost. After my time with a Nikon film SLR back in the 90s I only had point and shoot digital cameras. I like that I can check the result immediately and don't have to wait a couple of days until I get the developed film. But for a long time I never made the step to a DSLR. On one hand it was clear to me that I would need the best camera with the best image quality on the planet. BTW, I have never published a single picture. On the other hand after all the disappointing experience with the handling of point&shoot cameras I was not sure if my passion for photography would last long enough to justify the expenses for a FF DSLR. So one day I stood at the window of my, since then, favorite camera shop. I knew, today I will spend money. Possible canditates were - Sony RX100 II, just another point&shoot, very good IQ but no view finder and likely the same disspointing shooting experience like my Ixus 980, which also has its good sides. - Nikon D800, at least the resolution was the highest on the planet at that time. Ok, except medium format. - Nikon D610, compromise FF - Fuji X-E1 In the end it was the Fuji with the kit-zoom. Mainly because I remembered that I almost never was unsatisfied with the IQ. It was always that my complains were about composition and timing and that taking pictures with the P&S did not feel right. So I decided for the dials and I was happy that the size and weight were smaller as it would have been with a FF DSLR. And as it was less expensive than the Nikons I had less concerns if it was wise to spend that much money for a passion I was not sure if it will last. And the end of the story? Well the story has not ended yet. A week or so later I bought the 55-200. Then the X-T1, 23/1.4, 56/1.2, and 18/2. So GAS has me in its firm grip. I am reading Fujiroumors every day and wait impatiently for firmware updates and better cameras from Fuji. Sometimes, when I read the discussions in this forum about slow auto focus at low light, poor face and eye detection, poor manual focus control, missing distance and aperture scale on the lenses, no image stabilization in the camera body, and yes, I have all this experienced myself, then I feel I desparately need a FF DSLR, may be a Nikon D750 (auto focus down to -3EV and I still have my Nikon mount lenses from film times), or a Sony Alpha 7 something, or an Olympus OM-D E-5II (5 axis image stabilization), or may be a Leica (It is known to everyone that you can take good pictures only with a Leica and if you have one you will take master pieces automatically. What do you think why all the old masters used a Leica?) So far I have resisted because it is great fun for me to shoot with my Fujis, even with the really slow E-1. And I know that it is not really the camera if I am not that happy with the result. But even this seems to improve, at least a little bit. May be it is of some help, that now I sometimes even go out and take pictures instead of sitting at home and reading about taking pictures and cameras. Hm, this is more text than anyone wants to read. But I have answered the main question in the first line. So it is your own fault if you wasted your time to read to here.

@Robin: Many thanks for explaining. @flysurfer: Most things can be found somewhere in the manual. But who has the manual at hand when he is shooting? There is a full display where Fuji could tell the user how to unlock. In the menu you may find many items that are greyed and you cannot select them. In this case you have to remember which other feature has to switched on or off to make the one that is grey available. This has become worse with FW 4.0. The software should allow me to select the feature and then tell me what other feature I have to disable or enable first. In the same category comes to my opinion that the T1 tells you for about one second after power on that there is no memory card. At this time I typically do not look neither at the EVF nor at the display. So I will notice it only when I try to look at the images that I just shot. BTW my E1 shows the message for about three seconds which makes it much more likely that I see it. I would prefer that I have to acknowledge the warning with OK or what ever to proceed. As much as I love my E1 and T1 but there are quite a few things in the usability that are annoying.