maidenfan84

If anybody uses Gorilla glue remember that you need to dampen the surfaces with a very small amount of water first to activate the glue. For this purpose a small artist's brush might be best.
 

Welcome to the forum!
I've been thinking about this exact question lately. I did a LOT of amateur photography in about 1978-1985, including my own darkroom with some simple color processes. Much of my attention was on how to do the wet chemistry and using the enlarger. Polycontrast paper, which involved purple and yellow filters on the enlarger, was new, and I tried a lot with that, including burning and dodging with different filters to do local increase or decrease of the contrast. For a while I was on a sepia toning kick. On the camera side of things, I liked macrophotography including a bellows and special bellows lenses, and I worked pretty hard to make depth of field work. Generally I tried to practice better focusing technique, and had about 4 or 5 different focusing screens. I tried to practice better holding technique, too, using tips from archery to control my breath and get less blurry pictures when struggling with long shutter times.
I got into Fuji X cameras within the last couple years. This was my introduction to digital cameras with interchangeable lenses. What evolved the most was that all the wet chemistry went away, including a lot of work that had nothing to do with controlling the images I made. Do I need to improve my temperature control? How fresh are all my batches of chemicals and how fresh do they need to be? Do I need to add a fan because the fumes are bothering me? Can I make a homemade vacuum easel to keep the paper from curling under the enlarger? Can I load some more cartridges today or is it so hot I will sweat inside the changing bag and ruin them all? ALL of that stuff just went away.
Lots more evolved. Autofocus mostly made focusing technique go away, or reduced it to thinking about what part of the image I wanted sharp. Rather than having to decide whether to accept the grain of Tri-X or the speed of Pan-X or compromise on Plus-X, and having to stick with that for the whole session, I get sensitivity that is somewhere between better and way way better. Handheld shots can be so much slower now without shake. And the lenses are faster -- I used to have one lens that went to f/1.4, and now I have several that can do that, and one that incredibly goes to f/1.0. Not only that, I can do focus stacking now, and get what used to be flat out impossible shots.
Long story short, mostly, the hard stuff went away, or at least got several stops better.
I guess the downside is that now I struggle sometimes with software, installations that don't go right, needing to track updates, and camera instructions that are 10 or 100 times more complex. Before automatic exposure and other microprocessor driven stuff came along, there just weren't that many details. My favorite camera, the Canon F-1, did have a battery for the light meter, but other than the meter not functioning it was the same user experience if I left the battery out. Sunny 16 and I was good to go.

Welcome Louis!
You are aware that it's the same management as in the Leica Forum?
Andreas

Xpro 3 w/ XF 23mm f2
iso 3200 f2 1/20s

The 27mm f/2.8 MkII seems to qualify for me.

For the price and versatility, the 23mm f2 R WR can’t go wrong. Focuses up close, a nice middle between standard and wide angle view, etc. 

The camera was returned with a new top plate. Almost immediately the issue of multiple activations with one press started again. It was getting quite irritating so that I diddn't want to use the camera. Contacted Fuji and they asked me to sed it back to them. All free postage by the way. 
They had it for a week but couldn't recreate the issue so nothing was done to it. It was returned and the issue seems to have gone. Let's keep our fingers crossed that it remains so. 

Hello everyone.
 
I’m proud owner of an X–H2 and I’ve been having a lot of fun with it.
 
I do have a question though: when I take a picture in filter mode, I noticed that there’s a slight lag after taking the picture and I’m wondering if it has to do with the write speed of the sandisk UHS-I that I’m using. I’m sure there’s many advantages to having a UHS-II , but I’m just wondering if this is one of them.
 
Thank you very much everyone,
Pete 

Hello! I'm Edoardo, 25, Italian.
I used to shoot with my Canon 200D but now I'm into buying a new camera and I think Fujifilm will be the next one. I'm a hobbyist so I do not make profit with the camera.
I'm deciding between x-t30 ii vs x-t3. Where I live their price in the second hand market is comparable, there isn't too much difference. x-t3 it's a superior camera obviously but I'm afraid of loosing the classic neg. film recipe and the portability of the x-t30 ii. I'm not particularly interested in the video features. Can someone help me choosing between these two cameras? 
Thanks!

I find myself switching to manual focus quite often.  I did it again today at a visit to the zoo.  The autofocus function focused on the dots on the plexiglass rather than the animal.  It's very quick and easy switch on the X-H2 and X-T5, so no problem.
 
 

I'm considering purchasing an X100v. I wonder how often X100 and X-Pro camera users make use of the optical viewfinder. I've had the X-E1, X-E2 and now X-E3 and have become used to the EVF. So I wonder how useful an optical viewfinder is?

I use it 50/50 on my xpro 3. I like the EVF because it shows me exactly what the photo is going to look like if I’m using a film sim like BW, etc. but if I’m using the OVF, I can still bring up a small preview window that gives me a solid idea of what it’ll look like too. I go back and forth depending on how I feel like shooting that day 

First off, the color of an electronic display is almost never going to be exactly the same as the real world display of the EVF. You are asking the impossible of your camera. Secondly, accurate color on the EVF isn't really all that important. You aren't going to change anything about your photograph based on the nature of the color — that image isn't there to judge accurate exposure and color but rather to let you compose and time your shot.

Sorry but xpro3 deserves only primes ! It’s all about the balance btw lens & body. Let’s use a 50mm f2 and put a 16mm f2.8 in your pocket with a 2nd battery.

The reason that they're often sold out, is because production numbers were very low and retailers ordered very few stock. According a friend who runs a large camera store in Europe, around mid 2020 -after the X-Pro2 replacement wave and after the X-T4 was introduced- sales of the X-Pro3 dropped to only a handful each year. Since end 2022, Fuji stopped producing the X-Pro3 altogether, even though a successor (X-Pro4?) is still at least a few months away. Knowing that Fuji normally keeps the predecessor in production for a year or two after the successor becomes available, that says enough to me...

Sales aside, I've been on this ride since the xp1, so it's a success in my book. 

I held back buying the xp3 because of the screen, but a while back I caved and purchased the 3 in Dura Silver (black was OOS). I couldn't be happier with it. I thought the screen would become a PITA, but now realize I don't chimp as much as I thought I did. No ragrets (not even a vowel). love their updated custom menu screen, stiffer exp comp dial, better AF. The dura silver contrast looks great with the black lenses too. I'm an xpro shooter for life, or until they jump the shark.

For anyone who started photography in the film era before digital, the Xpro 3 would feel right at home. I started my photo journey in the film era with a Minolta X700 and Canon F1. The xpro 3 pretty much takes me back to exactly how it felt before. No ridiculous 1000+ features, of which most I’ll never use, etc. It’s well laid out and designed from a purist standpoint. It just gets out of the way and lets me shoot the photos. I didn’t check the back of my film door to look at the picture I just took with my X700, so I don’t have that expectation on my Xpro 3 either. Now for people who grew up digital and never shot film cameras, it might be the backwards situation for them. They might feel like why do I have less when my other digital has so much more. It’s important to remember that the Xpro is all about the “less is more” experience. It might not be a home run sales hit like a Sony A7, but for who the Xpro line is made for, I’d say it was/is a massive success. Many times they’re completely sold out and you can’t even get one unless you jump on the ball soon as they come up for sale. 

The glass is rather durable.  Unless you gouge it with keys or something else in your bag most likely you'll upgrade your camera before the glass is scratched too much.
As far as cleaning, I clean all my glass with an old, 30 year old cloth diaper that I used on my girls.  I have several of them.  If you don't have any of that, a good quality microfiber cloth, and a drop of eye glass cleaning fluid on a Q-Tip will take care of the viewfinder --- also very good on the rear panel, and lenses bTw
Hope that helps.  

I just wrote to MaxMax about converting a Fuji.
Here's the reply:   "Normally, a Fuji camera is $1,600, but with the IBIS models, the cost is $1,850 because the IBIS assembly has to be taken apart to get the sensor out."
Still less expensive than purchasing a Leica monochrome...
 

Xpro 3 w/ XF 23mm f2
iso 3200 f2 1/20s

Siuslaw Bridge Florence, OR. X-T1, 15-45PZ.
 

Xpro 3 w/ XF 23mm f2
iso 3200 f2 1/20s

Welcome, too!