Trenton Talbot

It totally depends on what kind of photography you're going to do with that 56mm. Horses for courses. If you need a general use fast tele lens – go for the non-APD version. If you mostly shoot portraits – definitely go for the APD.

I think i's a side effect of the widespread use of shills by some parties (not necessarily by manufacturers themselves). As a result in many cases it's not about system A versus system B, it's about the job security. And these are some very insecure people…

I could kill for the the 10-24 in f/2.8 version. …Oh, 300/2.8 and/or 200/1.4 are on top of my list, too

Good one, except for the part that I quoted. I'd advise against storing your gear in airtight containers (unless you live in a rainforest). Just use your regular camera bag, but throw in a decent pack of silica gel to keep things dry. Oh, and don't use q-tips, unless you want to deal with lint too. Good ole Pec Pads do the trick so much better!…

From the official press release: "The built-in phase detection pixels have the detection range of 0.5EV, an improvement from the previous 2.5EV, delivering phase detection AF performance that enables fast focusing in low-light conditions and on low-contrast subjects."

Sure. I used to photograph receptions with 1D* series Canons and D3* series Nikons (never played with D4). Compared to them, low light AF on the X-T1 works terrific. It's way better. But only if you compare them without using AF illuminator. Main "pro" of DSLRs: you have a luxury of AF illuminator. You can run if from flash, command module, whatever… It's dark red (no, it's not IR)) and not very distracting. However, it gives away your position and intent: "Here's the photographer and he's about to take a shot, let's pretend at once!…" Main "con" of DSLRs: yes, with an aid of AF illuminator you can focus in total darkness… but at certain level of darkness you just can't see what you're shooting or what you're focusing at. Main "pro" of the X-T1: this camera has a night vision. With DSLRs, the viewfinder image are always dimmer than what you see with your eyes… With an X-T1 you can confidently frame the shot way past your own ability to see in the dark. And if you can find a somewhat contrasty spot on what you see, you can focus on it. Always. Main "con" of the X-T1: if you ever decide to use AF illuminator… well, just don't. It's an LED flashlight – nothing more. Nasty one at that. People will be flinching on 100% of your low light shots. So turn it off permanently. PS: The new firmware (4.0) promises to improve already superb low light AF five times in terms of contrast recognition. We'll see.

You think ambassadors are on commission?

The Original vs The Ultimate. Fight!

Just wanted to throw in a little X100s

Oh dear

Here's my short bio. I use mostly X cameras, only 2 photos in my current portfolio are shot with another system.

FAQ this new forum needs, young padawan…

You live in a magical world.

It will have WR, that alone will add some to the price. Plus the usual "early adopter" penalty… I don't think it will be cheaper, at least not at first.

If it really bugs you, just run a Surface Blur filter in PS and apply it to color only.

That might be just the backpack for you then

I have (and use) both EF-20 and EF-X20. On camera, latter is quite useful in adding catchlights (usually at the minimum setting) and providing some fill. But both can be used in full TTL with Canon-compatible off-camera cord, and that's where EF-X20 really shines – I'm loving that big dial and seamless TTL/Manual integration!… EF-20 is more of a backup flash in my arsenal.

You can adjust power of the EF-20 off camera, although it's not as straightforward as with EF-X20.

Did you correct for the hotspot in post, or the 10-24 doesn't have one?

After 45 ft you need to start thinking of serious artificial lighting, not the soft camera case

RF-603 II is the best option, IMO. They work – just use TX, not TRX on the transmitter. Best used with YN560-III flashes (built in RX, 6 groups, all that jazz). Cactus V5 works too (and syncs with X100* at 1/1000, by the way). PS: I use YN560-TX too. Loving it.

Of course. And it seems to be working just fine.

There's a "Little Bridesmaid" already in the "People" subforum…

Most importantly, you should keep your camera facing down when changing lenses. Contrary to popular belief, switching it off is not so critical.

There's an easy way to test if your sensor needs cleaning. Set ISO to 200. Stop down your lens to the maximum (f/16 or f/22 if available). Set shutter speed to auto. Switch to manual focus and rotate focusing ring to the closest distance. Take a handheld shot of some more or less uniform surface in a relatively dimly lit room; exposure should be couple of seconds. Slightly wave and rotate the camera during exposure – there should be nothing in focus (see #4) and nothing steady. Open the shot in camera, zoom in to the max and inspect the result navigating your zoomed in shot with D-pad buttons. All sharp or semi-sharp objects you see are various artifacts on the sensor (dust, lint, maybe even – God forbid – scratches…). You can get rid of most dust specks with the blower. However, some artifacts (such as dried out water drops) require wet cleaning. If you don't know how to do it yourself, you should learn PS: I have an X-T1 since the day it hit retail shelves… and I change lenses at least 100x every day. So far, no need for a wet cleaning.