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BobJ

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Everything posted by BobJ

  1. BobJ
    Probably you have the touch screen on. I have mine disabled for this reason. Frankly touch screens are of limited use anyway.
  2. BobJ
    Try making sure that you are in zone or wide mode. Also try turning off eye detect (although I think it should work with that on). By the way, it is possible to set the joystick so that when you press it and rotate the rear dial it will go through all the focus area options. menu > AF Mode > all. If you manage to get the tracking back don't forget that there are various tracking options for different scenarios. Otherwise I don't know what is wrong.
  3. BobJ
    I don't see why you want to trade in the 16-80, unless you want a very shallow depth of field, in which case go for the 56mm. The 16-80 is perfectly OK for portraits and works well at f4.
  4. BobJ
    In my opinion raw is the way to go with any camera. It gives you a much wider range of options in post and takes advantage of the cameras full dynamic range. Then you can forget about wondering what film simulation to use and do it all afterwards. That's just me though. I understand that there are other opinions.
  5. BobJ
    The sensor is behind several layers of glass. There is an anti static cover glass, an infra red reject filter and the micro lenses for the sensels. Then there are the colour filters for the photodiodes. So you are not actually cleaning the sensor, only the cover glass. It is coated though, so you definitely can't use your shirt sleeve It does have an anti reflection coating but is actually quite tough. The main thing is to make sure that you blow off any loose dust before you use the swab, only use the fluid supplied with the kit and don't press hard. I have been cleaning sensors for years with no problems. Don't use those sticky pad things, they are dodgy. Most dust can be blown off with a rubber "rocket" blower. Never, never, use canned air. If the propellant gets on the glass you will never get it off, plus they are too powerful and can damage the shutter.
  6. BobJ
    To give a definitive answer is impossible, even if I had experience with all those cameras - who would? I know that real camera stores are thin on the ground these days, but the most important consideration is how the camera feels in your hand. You should try them out. For instance, the X-S10 is small and light and is a great camera but may be too small if you have big hands. The X-T4 has very different ergonomics, with dials and buttons. IBIS is nice to have for some photography but not nearly so important as some think. For instance, when in the city, subject movement is more likely to be a problem than camera movement. Also, as you say, many lenses have stabilisation. Another consideration is are the lenses you think you might need available within your budget and are there plenty of secondhand lenses available for the mount. There are no really bad cameras out there, just different ones.
  7. BobJ
    Additionally, the lightroom library module is designed for previewing and choosing. It is brilliant for that. There are lots of YouTube videos. Try Julianne Kost.
  8. BobJ
    Why is this an issue? It is the same for all cameras as far as I know including all film and digital slrs. You can only focus accurately with the lens at its widest aperture simply because that has the shallowest dof. Then if you want to get some indication of the dof you half press the shutter button, which is way more convenient than pressing the dof button on an slr and getting a view so dim you can't really see anything. For dof do not rely on focus peaking. It wil only give you a rough idea. Use the magnified view for that. You have to have some understanding of dof, (which varies according to how big the final image is displayed), where to focus and what aperture to use. I assume you are talking about landscape. It's not easy but It will come with experience. Take lots of photos and analyse the failures. .
  9. BobJ
    No, it doesn't work if you have pulled the ring to manual. The 14mm is a sharp lens by the way. You won't be disappointed.
  10. BobJ
    Don't worry about the shutter count. If it's working OK just use it. It's very unlikely that the shutter is worn out. I believe that 150000 actuations has been quoted for the X-T3, but that from memory. It's going to be at least 100000 though.
  11. BobJ
    I forgot to mention. To see the images correctly on the camera you can check some settings. Make sure that evf and lcd color are set to 0. Likewise lcd color adjustment (you can tweak these later if necessary). More importantly make sure 'natural live view' is off. These are located in the 'spanner' section under 'screen setting'.
  12. BobJ
    Can you describe the difference for us? What software are you using to view them on your computer? Do they look, the same on another computer and monitor or on a tablet or phone? Is your monitor calibrated? Most monitors that are not specifically made for photography are too blue and too bright out of the box. If you don't have a colorimeter, and your Images look OK on other devices, you can try adjusting the monitor using its controls.
  13. BobJ
    There is no such thing as wrong white balance, just one which you prefer. It's subjective. Every person sees colour differently. Not only tht but auto white balance can be fooled with scenes containing a dominant colour.
  14. BobJ
    18-300 is hardly the same as 70-300 . Because of the much greater range of the 18-300 I doubt very much that it would compare with the excellent image quality of the Fuji lens but surely the first decision is whether or not you need the 18-70 component .
  15. BobJ
    Buy a secondhand 55-200. It5 an amazingly good lens.
  16. BobJ
    When focus bracketing it is unlikely that you will be dealing with fast moving subjects or flickering lights. If you set the interval to 0 you run the risk of shutter shock taking the edge off the sharpness. So electronic shutter is the way to go in most circumstances.
  17. BobJ
    I know exactly how much bit depth my camera has. If you actually read my last reply you will see that I quoted 14 bits for raw. When processing raw you can take full advantage of this input. The formats you are talking about are output formats that are produced either in the camera or by post processing software from the 12, or usually now, 14 bits from the A to D converter. As things stand at the moment jpeg xl seems to me to be the best bet for stills, although I could be wrong. We will have to wait and see. As I said, video may be a different matter.
  18. BobJ

    XT-4 overheats

    BobJ replied to Ori Shalhon's topic in Fuji X-T4

    I don't have an X-T4 but this might be a faulty battery. Worth a try.
  19. BobJ
    I find that the viewfinder cup that is supplied with the X-T3 is not suitable for use with glasses as the eye relief is not sufficient. I use the older, smaller 'flat' version which works well and I can see the whole evf using it. I think it is called the EC-XT S.
  20. BobJ
    I can't see a much need for anyone to send 1000 images. Possibly for an image library? The main point of the new format is that is a container. It can hold all sorts of files including, for example, audio and video. It has better compression but I doubt the image file size is smaller than jpeg because of the extra bit depth. It cannot give better detail but it will give better colour accuracy. There is no printer that I know of that can take advantage of more than 8 bits per channel though and although we specialists do have 10 bit monitors, for stills only Photoshop can take advantage so far. Lightroom, for example, is still 8 bit. Additionally there are no cameras at the moment, other than exotica like Phase One, that have more than 14 bits in the d to a convertor. So I think the new formats are of no real interest to a stills photographer at this time. Video may be a different story. JPEG XL may be more likely to become the new standard.
  21. BobJ
    If I want to have the full colour and bit depth that my camera can record I use RAW. If I then want to preserve all of that I work with 16 bit TIFF. What would I want HEIF for?
  22. BobJ
    I think that you are describing the normal noise from this lens and others. It's the gyros for the IOS, which run all the time irrespective of whether IOS is on or off. Also there may be some noise from the linear motors that do the focusing. I am not sure about the latter. The noise is normally very low so either you have sensitive hearing or perhaps there could be sometimes wrong but I doubt it.
  23. BobJ
    Sorry, I have only just returned to look at the forum. I can't give you a video as I threw the cards away a long time ago. It is possible that what you all are experiencing is something different but in my case it was definitely a faulty sd card. Try with two different cards installed. You never know.
  24. BobJ
    I have not experienced this with my new 70-300. In fact the auto focus is very quick and positive indeed. I don't know what the problem is but perhaps the lens is faulty.
  25. BobJ
    In my experience this can be down to a faulty sd card. If you have two cards in, the faulty one will still cause the lock up as the camera cannot write to it. Replace both cards with good quality new ones and try again.
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