Chucktin

Sheet happens, and we all get visited sooner or later.

Are you sure you want to use a tele for landscapes?
 
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That's good to know!
 
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You can run a quick benchmark just to see if your CPU is working as expected. This standalone program http://www.userbenchmark.com/ is really usefull; it compares your computer with other computers with same specifications. A couple of days ago, This program helped me to find issues with my CPU.
 
Also, do you have a SSD drive? Such drive can boost any computer and since Lightroom is writing all single action to its database, a SSD with high write speed will help.
 
But keep in mind that unfortunately, Adobe is sold to Mac.... They don't put that much effort to optimize their Windows applications. Even their iOS apps are generally more complete than Android. But for me.... I willl never buy an Apple product, but that's me!
 
Additionally, you can also download Intel Extreme Tuning Utility to get some stats from your CPU (temperature, frequency, turbo boost, etc.). Again, this helped me to figure out that the turbo boost feature was disabled.

He wants to know how to stop the thumbnails showing Man.
 
The following should do it:
 
Open file Explorer, right click in a blank space. select "view" from the menu then choose what you want, in your case "details". Once details is set click the File tab in File Explorer . Click on "change folder and search options". The folder options window appears. click the View tab then look near the top for "Folder Views". Click on the "Apply to Folders" button. answer the question about whether you want to apply to all files with yes, click Apply and then OK.

Mmm... Very clunky (probably because of all the data transfers over a USB 2 connection); and the file manager in the App interface on the computer does not allow you to access mounted network shares, as far as I can see.
 
This is a deal-breaker, as I import all camera files to a network drive via Lightroom.
It means I have to transfer the files to a location that does appear in the App's file manager, and then work on them. Add to this the clunky data transfers over USB, and it seems more efficient to put the RAFs I want to convert on an SD card, and do the conversions 'in-camera'!

Richdog:
 
Exactly....I couldn't agree more.....the title was born out of frustration and certainly mischaracterizes the true problem (my poor battery management and the differences of DSLR vs. ILMC)...and in fact I would love to change the title of my post to "Proper battery management for long assignments"....but I can't change the title or even delete it. LOL. Yes the rabid fans, I get that. Then the thread showed up showcased on Fuji rumors...LOL. OMG.  
 
Overall the camera is adequate for a PJ tool, AF can be fussy in low light, and batteries must be  managed carefully.
 
Photo quality excellent.
 
I have since bought a second grip and tossed out old batteries. Numbered the batteries and rotated often.
 
There 'ya go.
 
So yea, I invited criticism! Should have titles the thread better....no doubt....so I'll eat the crow feathers.  
 

 
-P

Given the lightweight and compact nature of the camera, the power demands placed upon mirrorless cameras with LCD, ever active sensor and EVF and the state of play with battery technology then Fuji are making the best of things. With all the moaning I know that if a solution was viable it would have been adopted. 
 
If you want a bigger battery use the grip. Battery husbandry applies whatever brand or type of camera. Yes DSLRs are better but they are also larger, heavier and have lower power consumption.
 
The OP struggled and asked for advice. Pouring scorn from behind a keyboard seems to be the way of some folks.
 
Peter

I believe you can and that that has been mentioned here. Try a search?
 
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Perhaps you could try an after market grip? That might re-position your hand enough to learn a better thumb placement.
 
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I have similar objections to using Adobe, but in reality I have never like LR, having tried it several times from v1.  I use Capture One Pro instead, but actually Apple's Photos is starting to come alive now, with the update in High Sierra.
 
Chris

A couple from Leeds.
 

 

Because of the narrower field of view.
There are situations where I'd want to pick out a part of a landscape in front of me to photograph but seldom. Usually I'm looking to capture a larger perspective than a "normal" lens has not less.
 
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Are you sure you want to use a tele for landscapes?
 
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An f/1.5 enlarging lens? I don't think so.
 
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I reported it to Fuji Japan last week. No reaction so far, which seems a little strange as they were very good about firmware issues in the past.

Perhaps Fuji never intended the camera to work that way.
I have an XPRO2 as well and have been hoping to read how to set up an external monitor also.
 
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Hello,
  I just got a FEELWORLD 7" IPS 4K HDMI Full HD 1920x1200 On-Camera Monitor FW760 to use with my Fuji X-Pro2   After trying to make it work and also try to find some info online for more than 2 hours, I’m now starting to become really frustrated by this thing so I do believe it is wiser and the right time to ask online.   The external monitor is connected to my camera by a HDMI cable (Normal from the screen to micro on the Fuji X-Pro2 port). When I use the play back function to see my images recorded on the SD card, they are showing on the big external monitor and all controls from the camera seems to work well (zoom in and out, moving to next image,…) but the trouble is when I want to use the external monitor on Live View… Then, blue screen with the HDMI mention on the top right and a permanent “No Signal” message centred on the screen.   I’m not interested in making videos but as I was trying to make this screen working, I tried a video and same thing… Showing up on the external screen when playing back but not while recording on live view.   As it works very well (awesome colours and very sharp view) on play back mode, I guess the cable connection is good and I must miss some setting(s) to be changed on the camera itself. I checked everything on the camera menus but can’t find what’s wrong.   Any help would be greatly appreciated   Thank you

First, a comparison between X-Transformer's rendering, and straight Lightroom. Settings are exactly the same between the two images.
 
I've always struggled with the weird rendering of detail that I get with my RAF files in Lightroom. I've tried a few different processors to get my fine detail, but they either don't do much to solve the problem (Capture1) or are incredibly cumbersome to use (Photo Ninja) or are not available to me on Windows (Iridient)
 
I recently found X-Transformer (By Iridient) and found that it works more or less perfectly, and lets me keep my Lightroom workflow, so I thought I would share my process for anyone else interested or struggling with the same issues I was.
 
THE METHOD
 
I'm on Windows 10, using Lightroom CC
 
I went and got X-Transformer by Iridient
 
I then set it up to work as a plugin for Lightroom CC
 
Then, in Lightroom, once you find the files you want to work with and get your detail out of, you just choose to edit them in X-Transformer
 
And then put in these settings which strip out the horrible noise reduction and sharpening, and demosaic the data much better than Lightroom.
 
Then, once it's done running through X-Transformer, your image is back in Lightroom as a TIFF that you can treat exactly like your RAF files, except it's got fine detail in it.
 
It's the least cumbersome method I've found so far that gets really really good detail out of your shots, without forcing you to learn a crazy new half-broken editing software. The other program I found that gets this level of detail is Photo Ninja, but it is really difficult to work with, and feels almost like an Alpha for the first version of Lightroom. I don't advise it. 
 
Many photographers won't care about the improvement, and that's fine. Fine detail doesn't make or break a photo if the rest of the content/light/processing is good. But for those that want their full 24 megapixels worth of data, this is a great solution without having to give up Lightroom. 
 
Disclaimer: I haven't used the brand new CaptureOne which supposedly does very well with RAF files.
 
Links to two full res comparison photos

I wish Fujifilm would make an EVF only version of the x-pro2 with OLED instead of TFT and with higher magnification. I know alot of people find the OVF awesome, but I didn't choose my x-pro2 because of it, I chose it because of the x-pro2's form factor. I know the x-e2 comes close, but it is still to far away when it comes to build quality, shutter quality/speed/sound, joystick and display resolution. To me an x-pro2 with an EVF as close to the x-t2's EVF as possible would be a dream camera to me.

No. There's a Darwinian process that winnows out the lesser entities sooner than we'd like. So the more there are the better the survivors _may_ be.
 
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PITA for certain. Please let us know if you find a solution or "the" answer.

Complex and then some!
The rule of thumb that I heard was that the software decision tree started in the upper left corner and when right with sub-decisions as drop-down legs of the tree.
Since there's not enough real estate on an LCD screen (or in a viewfinder) software engineers have modified that to suit (something). And as users we have to hunt for what this new "guy" thinks is the proper location for familiar functions.
Kind of fun as mental exercise. But ay-kayrumba during the learning curve!
 
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Hi All,
 
I thought I'd share a list of useful shortcuts and important considerations for the X-Pro2 I've compiled from personal experience and various resources (recommendations below.) As I'm new to using this forum I hope this isn't redundant and that it will save you all some time and perhaps prevent some aggravation.
 
Shortcuts- in order of importance and frequency of use for me but of course this will be different for each of usPush Trash button for 2 sec, then press rear command dial to bring up card formatting Rear command dial- While in AF or MF press briefly to get the magnified view. Pressing for a full second in MF mode toggles through the focus assist modes (standard, split, focus peaking.) This works whether you are in magnified view or full view. This also works for the Electronic Rangefinder (ERF) Battery life as a percentage by hitting Playback button, then up arrow OR just toggle through the displays using DISP/BACK button Press and hold DISP/BACK button until Fn customizing menu appears and you can make changesOR press and hold any of the individual Fn buttons to change the function for that button. Press the Q key to bring up the Quick menu. Now press the Q button again and hold for 2 seconds: This brings you to the set-up menu to configure your custom camera settings C1 through C7. Press and hold the Q key for 2 seconds while in shooting mode to configure the Quick menu itself. While in this mode you can navigate to any of the 16 positions (use joystick or controller keys) and select any of the 24 functions or NONE for that position (using the MENU/OK button or push in joystick.) If you don't need access to 16 positions/functions you make some of them blank using NONE to clean up your Q menu. Press and hold Menu/OK button for 3 sec to lock all 4 selector/Fn buttons and the Q button. I must admit I never use this one but have included it in case someone out there sees a viable use for it. Important but not obvious:If DR is engaged (that is set to DR200, Auto, or DR400) your minimum Auto ISO won't go below ISO 400 or ISO 800 respectively, even if you've set the minimum for 200. I leave DR off for the most part because I primarily use Raw. If you use DR-AUTO mode, the X-Pro2 will choose between DR100 or DR200 but not DR400. If Face and/or eye detect is on, you can’t lock the AF. You also cannot change metering patterns. This makes no sense at all and I was hoping Fuji would change this when they came out with the 2.0 firmware update but no such luck. Maybe if we all request it, it will happen. One workaround is to assign Face/eye detect to a Fn button so you can quickly change it if you want to us AF-L or switch to spot metering. In addition to figuring some of this out on my own I have used several other resources. A couple of these stand out and I would highly recommend them: 1. Adam Bonn's X-Pro Series Content (not to mention the rest of his blog/site as well as his many poignant posts on this forum) 2. Rico Pfirstinger's X-pert tips- right now you can get 40% off his e-book via the link pinned at the top of this (Fuji X-Pro1/X-Pro2) forum.
 
Cheers,
Joel

And you expect them to do this free $?
 
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