pete1959

LR handles my X trans files just fine. All my friends have no issues with Adobe and X trans, nor is there any indication that the OP's issues are reappearing anywhere else. I have never seen anything like the OP has experienced....and it's more than just a purple tinge....those images have serious issues...they look very odd in all regards. Even my "flattest" images don't look like that. I couldn't disagree more that it's a bug in the conversion of X Trans files. That's simply absurd. One guys camera is suffering the problem. One camera, which is faulty. How that single example of one user serious problem becomes an Adobe issue is beyond me. I don't know why the OP doesn't return it for repair.

OK...I took Instax film through checked baggage last week....domestic USA round trip...no issues with the film....printed images look fine. Peter

That is NOT normal to the extreme! There is no reason you should have to jump through hoops color balancing etc. This should be a WYSIWYG camera (What you see is what you get) You have a defective camera. Period. My 2 cents is stop aggravating yourself and send the camera in for repair.

You may be right...thanks for correcting. -P

DSCF "2" references slot #2, 030 is frame number You can set the camera to file name continuously or reset Assuming that it was set to name continuously DSCF2030 is frame #030 on card #2.

Were you at F2? Full sun @ f2 is tough, so to speak, on the ability of the camera to expose. Simply put, that's freaking bright out @f2. Even at 2.8 If you are wide open or close to it: The camera/metering system is floating the ISO to it's lowest allowance in RAF, ISO 200. I'm guessing wide open at F2 on a bright sunny day has got you well into electronic shutter... A bright sunny day @ ISO 200 at F2 is a shutter speed of 1/12,800 which is beyond the mechanical shutter of 1/8000th (using the old bright sunny day rule of 1 ASA at f16) You are on the outer limits of what the camera wants to do so it starts floating the ISO starting at ISO 200 and then 400.....in your case only one stop....which is wholly accountable and likely due to variances in what you are exposing on, as the previous poster indicated. Regardless the one stop float is not that much, it's just that you are already at the extremes wide open on a bright sunny day. ISO 200 is full blown as low as she goes :-) So the camera is trying to do what it decides to do, rather than changing your shutter speed it's floating the ISO off of the base of 200. That's my 2 cents on what the camera is doing.

Menu>Setup>Button/Dial Settings>Focus Lever Settings>On Me thinks if you have set it to "off" at lever itself the option of turning it back on directly from the focus lever is nulled out (as it is off). Pleased let us know how/if it is resolved.

Bad troll! Back to your cave.

Opps...Re: When shooting in "EVF Only" the playback of image should be on the LCD, not playback on the EVF (who reviews images in the EVF, regardless of shooting mode?!)...that should have referenced the pressing of "Menu"....which should bring up "Menu" on the LCD....image playback from EVF only does in fact play on the LCD. 2) When shooting in "EVF Only" the playback of image should be on the LCD, not playback on the EVF (who reviews images in the EVF, regardless of shooting mode?!) 2) When shooting in "EVF Only" the playback of image should be on the LCD, not playback on the EVF (who reviews images in the EVF, regardless of shooting mode?!)

1) When converting an image from RAF to JPEG in camera: Place the converted jpeg in the sequence/order shot, not last in line. That makes it possible to directly compare the unconverted (pre-conversion) jpeg to the in camera converted jpeg. 2) When shooting in "EVF Only" the playback of image should be on the LCD, not playback on the EVF (who reviews images in the EVF, regardless of shooting mode?!)

*RAW histogram *Rear Command Wheel-Customize-Push to Initiate AF (Back button AF too small a button) *ISO-Shutter Speed Lens Dependent *Blinkies Full Frame in Review (Or live view if possible) *Highlight overexposure prevention option. *All buttons more customizable *More items in "Q" menu

oh...and moderators please add an "edit post" button so I can change my; that brings to "mine" to "that brings to mind".

Side notes: If you complain about something not working please have the courtesy to post the solution if and when you discover it, or what you did to get it resolved. If it was operator error, please post it as such, admit you mistake, and stop blaming Fuji. Please don't tell us you have white bars, squiggly lines, autofocus failure, error code XXX, that has been going on since the day you bought your new "Fuji X". Enlighten us and tell us the resolution, and for gosh sakes if it's under warranty and you really believe the camera is broken the return it for repairs. That brings to mine the poster who insisted her camera was broken, refused to try a different lens to determine if it was the camera or then lens, and then chastised me for asking if it was resolved, and in the end never did give the forums the resolution (again indicating operator error). Lastly to all you bleeping trolls, this is a Fuji X Forum, not a "Pentax/Sony/Nikon does it better forum".

They do....the entire X serious are pretty serious cameras....The work around is to capture the image on a real camera and then print it via Instax....

Good point....I'm guessing dye sub....if it's similar to Polaroids I would note that I have dark stored polaroid's thirty years old...and they are still pretty good...and I have scanned those to inkjet....regardless the Instax is still longer lasting that a 72 dpi jpeg on a smart phone.

Oh, and it rips through batteries! Even when trying to manage battery usage, such as turning camera off "between use", it still eats up batteries at an unpleasant rate.

Eighteen months since I switched from Canon 5D MK3. I'm not a Nikon shooter but I'm going to hazard a guess that the D4 is pretty darn good. Although the image quality is excellent the AF performance in low light is sluggish/slow as compared to a high end DSLR. It can be frustrating at times...lots of hunting for focus etc. It is nowhere near as fast or sure footed when compared to a Canon 5D MK3. Although you will love the shots you do get, there are going to be some shots you won't get due to poor AF. I would guess about 20% of the time. I deal with this brutal reality all the time, and have simply accepted it as a fact of life. The tradeoff is a much smaller system that is far less likely to be noticed and/or draw attention to oneself and fantastic image quality. For me the "not drawing attention" and the "size/weight" usually makes me happy I switched, but sometimes when the AF lags I want to scream and throw the camera across the room. In my experience the older lenses (23 f1.4, 35 f1.4, 56 f1.2, 90 f2) are notoriously slow and very frustrating to use and slow to AF in poor light, the newer f2 lenses less so. If you can afford it you may want to hold onto your DSLR and spend some time with the X-T2 (ie; keep both). If I had it to do over, and could afford it, I wish sometimes I had. Peter www.kma438.com

Here's a plug for the Fujifilm Instax printer, graduation gifts, and something your kid will find extraordinary: Prints I can't say enough about this "stupid" little almost "toy" printer and how much EVERYONE loves the "tiny" prints Especially people under 30 who have never held a print. It's sheer wonderment for many young people. Keep in mind that it will print from phones/tablets, the printer is independent of Fuji cameras and such....it will print from any Wi-Fi device using the free Fuji app...which also allows image adjustments and filter effects. Yes the print quality is about a six out of ten...but no one ever complained...lots of people, especially girls, like the "cute factor" in which "tiny and cute" is a plus. Another important benefit is in a generation or even two they will most probably still have the pictures....which can't be said of digital images...(made worse by compression issues upon sharing/saving). Consider buying the cheap little albums....it makes it MUCH more likely the images will stay in their family for a long time. I specifically recommend the Instax printer as a graduation gift because that is a time when young people are just beginning a new stage in life...it's the start of summer...and the printer will get used a lot and immediately...and once again lets young people hold onto physical pictures of friends that they might never see again, at least certainly "not that young"...LOL. College, high school, I wouldn't even hesitate to give even a child entering junior high from grammar school one. It's a decent way to show them they are responsible for an "adult" gift....and it's SIGNIFICANTLY more interactive and less "passive" than video games etc. It will also give a percentage of children the "photography bug"...! Only drawback is them begging you for an X-Pro 2 or such at Christmas...! Peter www.kma438.com

LOL....I'm flying out at the end of the month and I'm planning to give an Instax printer and film as a graduation gift...guess I'm going to find out!

As I understand it the ISO of Instax film is 800....security scanners are reputed to only be a problem with faster (ISO 3200) films....even then only when passed through multiple times. Even if it did effect it, the effect would be "fogging" of the film, which at worst would only render the pure whites slightly less than pure....it's very unlikely you would notice it. Todays scanners supposedly emit very low amounts of radiation as compared to the older x-ray machines one would encounter back in the days of film, and the advice back then was to avoid multiple passes through x-rays with sensitive film (iso 3200), and the problem was worse with older technology machines in third world countries. I very much doubt you will have any issues, but you could always place the film it in your checked luggage if you are checking bags and avoid the X-rays...

Not surprised it doesn't "drag in" image ratings in RAF (raw). Curious....how about in jpeg? Note to Fuji: Hey it's nice you guys allow us to rate images "in camera", but it's value is questionable if it isn't available in post processing software like LR.

Microfiber or lens pen is fine (if clean of course) You will have an easier time if you remove the eyecup which is simple to remove IF you lift up the LCD screen on lift from the bottom... It's almost impossible to remove the eyecup if you leave the LCD down.

In "EVF Only" the image will playback on the LCD when you press the "play" button, however menu settings appear only in the EVF display. I too would like to have it so when in the "EVF only mode" when I hit "Menu" or "Q" the display would switch to the LCD and not the EVF, so as not to have to toggle thru the viewfinder settings. I see no reason why I want to keep my eye to the viewfinder when I need to alter the settings.

Viewfinders rarely if ever show 100% coverage. That's normal and always has been. It's better to get a wee bit more coverage than less, so as not to cut off something important. Here's a link to a good article that explains something that would seem simple but optically and mechanically isn't. https://luminous-landscape.com/understanding-viewfinders/

has you fixed the issue/ did you send it back to Fuji?