pete1959

It should function in auto ISO by "floating the ISO" as you dial in compensation. You will see the exposure ISO change (on half press) as well as changes in the image itself in the viewfinder. Keep in mind once you hit the extremes of the ISO settings it will cease adding compensation...ie; you can't go below ISO 200 no matter how far you turn the exposure compensation dial. Under some lighting conditions it can make it appear not to be working....you dial and dial and nothing happens. That just means you have hit the limits of the ISO range available (200-12,800) When you are NOT IN auto ISO, and setting manual shutter and aperture, the exposure compensation dial does not work.

I don't put up with the cameras "limitations" and more than I did with Canon.... In Canon's case it was the size and weight... No system is perfect.

If the improvement in focusing speed on the 50 is anything compared to the new 23 f2 and 35 f2 than there is no choice for street. I have the 56 1.2 and it is a DOG at night . It's has really poor AF performance (on the X-T2) I'm looking forward to the increase in AF speed and the reduction in size/weight.

Your camera (properly) raised the exposure for the background resulting in overexposed highlights. Metering (what the camera does) and the exposure is what the photographer sets. The camera meters. The photographer sets the exposure. I would expect to dial the exposure down 2 stops in such a scene and that is perfectly normal. Blown highlights are not very recoverable in LR. Shadows are very easy to recover.

Is that the nature of lithium ion batteries? Do all lithium ion units discharge on their own?

I'd shoot a call into Fuji tech support....that's odd it would do that. The lack of any info on the internet kind of indicates it's very uncommon. You might have a firmware issue with your printer? I know not helpful advice but the lack of responses and or similar postings on the net means it might be a long wait to get it resolved via the forums.... I'd call Fuji or return the unit....

I float the ISO via the exp. compensation because of what I shoot...which is "night time street" where auto exposure is often fooled by lights. There are many ways to use the tool, what works for me may not be an issue for you. That's one of the reasons cameras have exp. compensation dials. So: The OP is concerned about 1/3'rd of a stop. The OP doesn't say "it's erratic". He's within 1/3rd of a stop. That's pretty darn "in the ballpark"! In real world non studio photography in uncontrolled challenging conditions it is abnormal not to need some exposure compensation. Maybe someone can learn from the thread about the realities of metering etc. and have honest expectations. Oh: I'm not a "chump". That's insulting. Knock it off. You disrespect this forum.

...so when DOESN'T it print correctly?

(Heatboy...I never used the phrase "afraid" of the dial, that was Tom's reply ; "Yes, this basically. Don't be scared of the dials.") Just a reminder to folks the dial is there to be used (a lot if necessary). Lots of folks are terrified of using that dial. So long as the exposure compensation dial is not utilized you are shooting on "auto". Manually setting an F stop and shutter speed, even if you take the camera off of Auto ISO, does not give you control of the exposure. So long as the camera operator insists on leaving the exposure compensation dial alone the camera is on "auto" and the exposure decision is being made by a computer and not you the photographer. I know lots of photographers, people who have owned their cameras for many years, who NEVER EVER dial in exposure compensation, who constantly blame their camera, and whose photography sucks. Don't take this personally...I'm not saying that any poster here is wrong about anything. I'm concerned it makes newbies get the wrong lesson. Maybe the camera exposes slightly differently than "XYZ"? Why in the real world does that mean anything at all??? I'm trying to underscore the point to new users with a professional tool that discussions about 1/3rd of a stop is pointless and very misleading and makes newbies think; "It's not me it's the camera". That's not a good lesson to teach or learn. I don't photograph the world as 18% gray anymore than I would bet on number 18 on the roulette wheel because it is in the middle of 36. 18 on the roulette wheel the perfect and accurate starting point for "average of all numbers", and in fact would be mathematically perfect (excluding zero double zero etc.), but the odds of you hitting on 18 is neither smaller than nor greater than any other number. Stop betting on number 18. The world, the world the dictates your exposure, isn't a mathematical average. Cheers. Peter ps: is everyone running sRGB as it is a known issue that Adobe RGB results in mismatched jpegs vs. viewfinder view.

Again, just my 2 cents....I just see zero exposure compensation as a starting point. From the way I operate always having -1/3'rd stop dialed in becomes arbitrary. I will add that I'm photograph police officers at work in black uniforms, so I'm always dialing down my exposures anyhow. At night even more so, as I want black sky to be black, dark tones to remain dark, and highlights free of clipping. I also shoot RAF. Again, I would add that anytime a new camera with a new chip and new algorithm's is going to "see" 18% gray slightly differently. 1/3rd of a stop compared to "XYZ" , who is to say what the "proper exposure" is from a reflected light meter being interpreted by a very complex computer? It's so arbitrary as to be meaningless in RAF (1/3rd of a stop?!), so long as the SOOC jpegs are proper. To have the RAF 1/3'rd of a stop underexposed is both a GREAT thing and perfectly acceptable as the RAF by design should strive to give the user as much data as possible for post without clipping. Hurrah Fuji on that one! I have never viewed my indicated exposure as anything under than a starting point. My exposure compensation dial is more likely than not set somewhere other than zero at the time of exposure.

Are you matched in color gamut? Adobe RGB vs sRGB? I never had much luck exactly matching my SOOC jpegs to my RAFs in LR using the provided LR camera calibration... Keep in mind... The conversion of the jpeg was performed by the computer in your camera. In this case a new computer (X-T1 vs X-T2) The conversion of your RAF was by Adobe on your PC etc. Two different conversions on two different computers/programs gets two different images. IMHO Lightroom's conversions using the "develop calibration" settings have never matched Fuji's SOOC jpegs (sadly). That's why the new "reference tool" in LR is so helpful..... White balance is where this is most pronounced. But you have a RAF, so getting as good or better of an image is there for you. I love FUJI SOOC jpegs, the colors are fantastic.....but hard to duplicate in post processing in LR.

Yes the camera is afraid of highlights. Good point. Wonderful thing!

There is nothing wrong with your camera. The oddities of various metering systems perfectly normal. The number of variables for a proper 18% gray all through the scene, plus algorithms related to camera settings, ensures a variety of "proper exposures". I can not stress this enough to X-T2 shooters: You are in charge. It is up to you to "drive" the camera with exposure compensation. This is a professional tool for people who understand metering, and it's abilities and limitations. It is rare that any photograph I take doesn't have some sort of exposure compensation in it. THAT IS NORMAL. Short of an external hand held incident light meter (vs a reflected light meter) cameras ALWAYS give slight variations. These are not bugs being posted on the forums about exposure errors, it's people who misunderstand what the tool is capable of. It's not the camera folks. Use that exposure compensation dial...a lot....make conscious decisions about exposure. The cameras of today (WYSIWYG) and histograms provide YOU THE USER with information, but the final exposure is yours to make based upon that info. Use the dial. DRIVE YOUR CAMERA. Peter PS: if you don't know what 18% gray (grey) is in regards to photography look it up. It is the key to understanding photography exposure.

Normal. Try center weighted spot or simply go full manual.

Try a new card. Sounds like the camera is gagging on the card(s). The camera hates to turn off until it's done writing to the card (to prevent loss of the image). If the camera is unable to write it won't shut off. Try a new card (fastest) to exclude that as the culprit.

As a frequent reader and poster to many of the "16 or so negative posts", in the end virtually all were operator error. I know of one poster who complained of a problem but claims now it was simply a lens. The few remaining are "wish list" and "improvements" items, not bugs or problems. The two or three actual hardcore problems were all quickly resolved by Fuji service when the poster took folks advice and returned the unit. Their customer service is frequently praised here. I'm not certain of any significant remaining and actually occurring camera issues. The LCD color issue remains a bit of a bug for some, but I think all the other "problems" were user errors or individual units quickly resolved by customer service. Keep in mind virtually no one, we are talking just a few thousand users, even read this forum, much less report an error, and it's almost always user error/misunderstanding (me included). You would have to read every thread here. If you follow them all but one or two were fixed. This place isn't "the gospel". It's just a place on the internet... Take it all with a grain of salt. People come here to vent, solve problems, learn, and try to influence Fuji. In that regard it is very helpful. The sky did not fall. :-) It's a very, very, very, solid camera system capable of amazing photographs. Jump in. Try it out. It you don't like it (very doubtful) return it. Peter

Switching to 91 points completely solved the issue of the focus point continuing to move after releasing the joystick. Cool!

The responses bring up good and valid points. Thank you.... As users of the tool we must learn to use it as best we can, despite it's limitations. For instance, I could try to remember that the fastest route to a focus point is not the most direct path, and I will try suggested workarounds. However, like the poster JWCTP said it's counterintuitive, and my experience in such things is that it will be a difficult to plug it into muscle memory. Advice/suggestions always appreciated. No one pissed off.... As far as how much I shoot, and how I shoot, is exactly why it's an issue for some like me and totally not an issue for others. Fuji is proud to say, and I agree, that the camera shouldn't get in the way of capturing an image. The joystick lag time, for how I shoot, gets in the way. RM-Photog: I guess the best way to give you an example, you being a wedding photographer, of where the camera lags for me, would be the "dancing at the wedding". Low light. Fast movement. Unpredictable. Lots of moving the focus point. Shallow depth of field. Not much room for error. Fast fast fast. Everything else about the camera suits my needs, stays "out of my way" as Fuji intended, except for the slow joystick. I shoot a as an editorial photographer and it's how I make my $$$...I have been a photographer since 1977....and have tens of thousands of images with the X-T2 since it came out...I use it every day. I can bend myself and make things work. But it's a bit like blaming the consumer for an oversight by the engineers..... The manufacture is ultimately responsible for the product they put out. My 2 cents: Needed...firmware update to speed up joystick in an otherwise very fast camera.

That's with 325... yes, 91 is faster ( about 2 seconds vs 3). If they could speed up the rate for the 325 closer to the 91 that would be a big help.... Gonna leave it at 91.

I'm diving in here with the original poster with both feet: "Kind of worthless" is dead on accurate. Not because I wish to complain, but in the hope that firmware will correct this. Moving the AF spot from all the way from one side to the other: 3 Seconds. Sometimes faster (2.5), sometimes slower, 3.2, but frequently at 3 seconds. (Variations due to my hitting stop/start inaccurately) If you photograph people 3 seconds is an ETERNITY. For instance, photographing groups of people yesterday I frequently need to go from person to person, far left, far right, center, and so on. Quickly. Not happening ...! Additionally, the AF point "brakes" are WORTHLESS. Lifting your finger off of the joystick does NOT stop the AF point selection movement. It consistently continues to move 2 or 3 boxes over, or worse (frequently) jumps to the opposite side if you tried stopping the AF point near the edge. I attempted to track the diagonal time from say top left to bottom right, but the AF point jumps erratically and I found I couldn't time it. Again I'm being pushed into focus and recompose, and hope that the shallow DOF stays in focus on the eyes. For those folks who want to tell the original poster and I that it works great for you, than I'm going to say it. Here I go... It works great for you....as well or better than your Nikon ### Canon MK ###, and you couldn't disagree more. But this comment isn't directed at you. Carry on my friend. This is for FUJI Corporation. Peter

Aherranz! That's a GREAT spot! A great example of the internet forums being really helpful! We all get reminded now and then how complex our little cameras (computers) really are. The X-T2 throws curves.... Now it's a shame that far too many people will forever have in their minds that the "X-T2 not having an accurate preview..." Maybe the forum hosts can change the title of this thread to "X-T2 Preview Mystery Solved"...? Now I'm going to check my "User Settings" and see what I have set...LOL Peter

It's complicated. As is everything in the FUJI engineers world. LOL. Try this thread: http://www.fujix-forum.com/threads/x-t2-problem-with-ae-l.62007/

Original Poster: Did this suggestion (sRGB/adobe) help/effect anything in your case?

As you discovered, the issue was the venue/costumes and lens, and not the camera. 1/640 f5.6 ISO 12,800 = 1/2000 or better at f2.8 ISO 6400 Well within the capabilities of the camera (not the lens) For sports/action first thought should be shutter speed first. 2.8 or better is ALWAYS required for indoor events and/or darkness. Photographing black things at night will challenge any AF system. Photography is hard sometimes....fast lenses make it easier...but even then some venues/scenes are just difficult.

Agreed...too slow for fast paced work. So slow that I'm back to focus and recompose.