pete1959

You are in "C" mode. In "C" continuous AF mode Eye AF does not work. Face detection works, but not "eye" Eye detection works only in "S" single.

Correct eye detection does not function in "C" mode, nor in spot metering mode.

Slow writing to card could indicate a card issue, and an inability to write to a card will lock the camera up as well. Try to climate the card(s) as an issue.

Post by original poster in 2017 says he returned it and had Fuji warranty repair and camera functions fine. Stuff happens when you make millions of units...99.999% of us have XT2's functioning as promised etc.

The original poster hasn't posted since Dec 2016....maybe he took the advice and simply returned his camera for an exchange or refund, or it was operator error? Love to hear what the resolution was.

It can all get very confusing very fast: :-) here's an explanation...sorry if we get off track... https://solarisstudios.com/weddings/image-resolution-72-dpi/

Normal. Looks fine to me. At 1:1, if that image you provided were displayed, at that size, it would be huge. I can literally see the fingerprints on the handle. There isn't anything wrong with your camera. The sensor you have is identical to what we all have....if the sensor had problems the industry would know about it. Not certain what grain/noise expectations you may have... How do your pictures look when viewed at normal size? That's all that counts. Enjoy the camera!

Similar issue: Fully charged batteries suddenly reading depleted or low. Solved by removing/inserting battery grip. Before I was aware of this issue I was removing the "dead" battery and replacing with fresh one, causing me to burn through batteries very fast.

Ahh... though I must admit the 56 1.2 makes fantastic images. My two bodies are pretty much mated with a 23 f 1.4 or f2 (for travel) and the 56 1.2 ....The 56 mm (85mm) is a tough focal length to go without. It's all a compromise.

Honest opinion. Refreshing. Valid on many points. Button placement isn't perfect for everyone, it's easy to accidently change a setting, battery life mediocre. All cameras are a tradeoff. Size and cost are the biggest. All things combined it's either good, very good, of great, depending on how you use it and what you use it for.

You will find the 56 1.2 still a little, or very, frustrating in low light, as well as the 35 1.4 or 23 1.4, can be finicky in low light. In all other venues, such as travel and landscape, it's fantastic system. Low light image quality excellent.

As an update: I shot yesterday from 4 pm until 9:45 pm, or just under 5 hours. Two X-T2's, both with battery grips, with all original Fuji batteries freshly and fully charged. Boost mode on. No chimping. Turning off camera when not in use (about 60% or more of that time period?). Camera 1: 516 shots and one battery remaining at 33% Camera 2: 389 shots and one battery remaining at 66% Total frames for those six batteries was 905 frames, with 33% and 66% remaining respectively. Average number of shots per battery: 192 If I had run the remaining batteries down to zero my frame count would have been 580 and 517, or 1,097 total for the two bodies. Battery drain between the two cameras seemed pretty consistent. I had an additional six batteries available on this shoot, leaving me with an additional four to five hours of "working time" if I needed it. Again, this wasn't non stop use. This was utilizing on again off again power saving efforts. My 12 batteries can be relied upon for only 7-10 hours of work for roughly 2,200 frames with no chimping and turning off the camera as often as possible. Oh, BTW, it takes a long time to recharge 12 batteries! My results yesterday were very consistent with my original post... So there 'ya go. IMHO: I don't believe someone working extended assignments in the field with limited time/availability to constantly recharge batteries should switch from a DSLR to a mirrorless camera. This system is simply not up to the task of 12-15 hour days in the field. Don't shoot the messenger.

If you are using two cards, and you have set it to write jpegs to one and .RAF to the other, you should see jpegs on one card and .RAF on the other. Are you using two cards or one, and have you checked both?

When viewing on LCD cycling thru display modes (disp back). One option, screen displays blinkies, and one doesn't. Caused me some wonderment at first too. If blinkies don't appear on the LCD use "disp back" to cycle to screen that does. Having blinkies OFF is nice for chimping purposes.

Yup it works great in all view modes. Fantastic addition....!

That feature, blinkies, seems to function only through the EVF not the LCD.

Real time live view highlight alert (blinkies) in the EVF. How nice!!!! Set Up>Screen Settings> Disp Custom Setting>Live View Highlight Alert

http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/x/xt2/index.html

Go to the first page, bottom right, of the new manual 3.00, and there is a link to a smaller six page PDF manual explaining the new features. http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2_v30/ PDF file also attached here. x-t2_v30_nfg_omw_en_s_f.pdf

Richdog: Exactly....I couldn't agree more.....the title was born out of frustration and certainly mischaracterizes the true problem (my poor battery management and the differences of DSLR vs. ILMC)...and in fact I would love to change the title of my post to "Proper battery management for long assignments"....but I can't change the title or even delete it. LOL. Yes the rabid fans, I get that. Then the thread showed up showcased on Fuji rumors...LOL. OMG. Overall the camera is adequate for a PJ tool, AF can be fussy in low light, and batteries must be managed carefully. Photo quality excellent. I have since bought a second grip and tossed out old batteries. Numbered the batteries and rotated often. There 'ya go. So yea, I invited criticism! Should have titles the thread better....no doubt....so I'll eat the crow feathers. -P

Very good. It meets all my needs except AF can be fussy in low light. Battery management is less of an issue now as I have learned to manage the batteries better.

Good spot. Yes that would be true if the artifact didn't show up all over the place on this shoot....I can see where you would see the coincidence of the two profiles aligning etc....but the entire shoot has lots of weird halos in it....to the point where people looked like cardboard cutouts placed in the picture with an edge artifact...even in natural light. But thank you for your input...I can see where that would jump out as a reason....but in this case it was a coincidence that the artifact showed in that image right where the shoulder overlaps, but it showed up all over the place. Either way I have a pristine new razor sharp 56 1.2 for $266.00 . -P

Agreed. I threw away my non S batteries after this. They were six years old. And had too much use. -P

No, I'm not a troll. LOL. As I stated earlier, I might have "messed up", by battery mismanagement and wrong expectations. I use original Fuji batteries and chargers. I was pretty sure I addressed that. As stated earlier, and echoed by others, is that mirrorless cameras and batteries have to be managed different. Don't expect DSLR performance and management methods to be the same in all cameras. Specifically, the batteries should be freshly charged. Mine, as I admitted earlier, were charged and rotated at random over several weeks. That will work with Canon DSLR's, but not so it seems with this type of battery. Of significance is that on extended outings where the power is not available, and/or given the time to slowly recharge batteries, can make it difficult to manage batteries. I have frequently been forced to wake up every two hours all night long after shooting until bedtime and having a morning shoot the next day to rotate batteries. Having two grips would help...I only have one. That's being resolved. Now, this probably isn't an issue for most shooters. It can be for others, especially those who are considering switching from a DSLR to a Fuji for PJ work (to whom this thread was sort of directed towards) The forums are about sharing/learning form others, and the lessons here are: 1. Keep your batteries freshly charged. Storage over long periods will reduce the charge. Rotate batteries in a reliable manner ( I have numbered all my batteries and rotate). 2. You may wish to evaluate whether you need to have boost mode on all the time. I haven't noticed a difference. In the end I didn't buy a Canon 5dmk4. I couldn't fathom going without live exposure preview and didn't want the size, expense, and weight especially with a two body system! I actually would retitle this thread, if I could, to "Battery Management For Extended PJ Outings". I was shocked to see this thread highlighted at Fujirumors.... In the end I admit user error/false expectations. I should not have taken a practice that worked with one system and applied it to another. Ie; who gives a rats butt about batteries with a DSLR, they last forever. That doesn't apply to mirrorless. So there you have it. Should one use this camera system to run off to a war zone or disaster area with? That's up to the individual user...only they can decide. Peter ps: One could easily have viewed my profile and website to see I'm not a troll. This isn't dpreview please be respectful in the forums.

Update...I turned off boost mode...I haven't seen any drop in performance...and battery life is greatly improved...I also retired four batteries some as old as 2012. I don't believe there is anything "wrong" with the cameras as several folks reasonably suggested...it's just a combination of the randomness of how long the battery has been waiting to get used...as I stated I don't track the batteries that carefully in so far as what battery is oldest charge/freshest charge. They just get tossed in my bag/pockets etc. at random. No doubt if I "fresh charged and topped off" batteries constantly I would get better performance, but I understand that topping off batteries shortens battery life? Thanks to everyone with the polite suggestions and advice...and staying on topic (no trolls yippeeeee) -Peter