Dis

It looks like you confuse bokeh with background blur. Bokeh is the rendering of background blur. There can be two lenses with same focal lengths and apertures but totally different bokeh. Also 140@2.8 is about the same as 90/2 in terms of background blur.

Sadly I can't help you with this. You have to wait for smb who does use Capture One.

I think the author meant what settings does the raw converter detect and apply to RAW automatically during import. For example when I shoot RAW+JPEG 1:1 Lightroom imports RAW only files as 1:1. Nevertheless I can still reset the crop to original 3:2 image.

Don't know about Capture One but Lightroom remembers image aspect ratio but don't apply film simulation settings. The last could be probably done in purpose as a default setting is Adobe Standard.

55-200 has an advantage in compression in 135-200 range which is not really a comfortable focal length range in terms of communicating with you model. For head-shoulders portrait @200mm you'll have to be more than 4 meters away. I rarely use anything longer than 90mm for portraits. I also really like the ability not to change lenses with 18-135. When I was buying it I thought I would use it quite rarely. To my surprise I really like the lens and use it very often. Thus if I were you I'd sell 55-200 and 27 and consider getting 90mm which is extraordinary for portraits.

I'd say it about the same as 56mm. I'm OK with it. 23 is worse and 90 is way better. In fact 90 is perfect for me.

You have to remember that you can't control the aperture of an EOS lens as you have no electronic control. Nikons (except the newest E series) has an advantage here as the aperture is controlled mechanically and whats even better with their aperture rings on non-G lenses. Rokinon/samyang 300 reflex is the same as canon as they have fixed aperture.

For a week in the mountains I take single X-T1 + 18-135 and that's it. I want to stay light and don't want to waste time swapping lenses so 18-135 is ideal for such purpose.

I'd wait for Fuji as it's really difficult to shoot at 600mm eqv. with no stabilizer. Otherwise I'd suggest used nikkor AF 80-400/4.5-5.6 which is reasonably priced quite good zoom via adapter or cheap Samyang/Rokinon 300/6.3 reflex lens.

That's great to meet you here. These posts are great and helped me lot. Thank you very much!

But it's faster at shorter end too. I'd like to have f/4 version same weight but WR and internal zoom. That would be great all-around lens.

I was expecting it to have great bokeh as Canikon 70-200/2.8 lenses do. Instead 50-140 bokeh looks like Canikon 70-200/4 lenses. I think Fuji did this on purpose but I can't understand why.

New Nikkor 16-80/2.8-4 for APS-C sensor is 480g and takes 72mm filters. That's definitely not much.

That's exactly what's called neutral bokeh). (I've written bad as I'm used to positive creamy bokeh and neutral is already bad for me).

I shoot RAW because I don't want to worry about too precise exposure, correct WB, film simulation, dynamic range etc while shooting. I can set all these in post. I set as much settings to auto as the shooting conditions allow me and just shoot. I want to think only about the picture I am taking. I know myself: I'll definitely forget to set something what's not set to auto. That's also the reason I love EVF: it makes me sure I've not forgotten to change my exposure settings when I have to shoot in manual or when I've reached the limit of my auto parameter such as 1/4000, maximum aperture, ISO range.

That's an interesting opinion. Unfortunately I don't have an APD. It would be great if one of our forum members that has both STD and APD could prove or disprove your observation. This could be your sample particularity.

Tom, her necklace attracts attention a lot just as it's an ad., but it's not in focus. IMO that's irritating. I'd love to see this picture with enough DOF to cover both her face and her body.

That's precisely one stop. I totally agree with the rest.

Your settings are really common for indoor ambient light. Adding a flash will make it possible to shoot @ f/8. With 56mm that's quite reasonable aperture to get all in focus. I like ambient light more too but that doesn't mean one won't like to shoot with flash and large DOF.

Ken Rockwell always does this. His reviews of a single product are usually positive but as soon as he compares two different products one of them suddenly becomes total crap. As soon as X-T10 review will come out you'll see it's not that bad. He also called not the X-T10 an albatross but X-T10+16-55/2.8 combination which could be really large and heavy especially when compared to 4 times smaller sensor point and shoot. BTW the reason he compared this two was he had these with him. KR would have hard times if he took his favorite 5D3+50/1.2 combination with RX100M4. Thus don't take this little article seriously. Just wait for separate X-T10 and 16-55 reviews. The second problem is his quite unique style of photography. Some things that are important for him can cause a great camera to get a negative recommendations while it can still be the best camera for others. KR's reviews are not standard reviews but the usability of the gear for his special purposes. Once you get this you can get some really useful information from his articles. You just shouldn't take close every single word he writes. Unfortunately as Fuji interchangeable system doesn't meet his requirements his reviews are quite dry. Try to compare it to X100 series articles and you get what I mean.

I'd say it's Leica M3 http://www.wired.com/images_blogs/gadgetlab/2011/03/5494289480_c6136fefc1_b.jpeg

Why not? Fujinon cine lenses are one of the best.

I guess he wants greater DOF. That's quite often situation for events shooting.

One can assign ISO to a command dial. That's great! I didn't know that. But don't you find yourself changing ISO accidentally? I felt X-T10 dials to be quite easy to knock off. In fact I've never changed the drive mode accidentally even while wearing winter gloves.

Manila street portrait. Guillermo Navarro.