Dis

It's unlikely that neural interface will help. There will always be moaners. That's not about this problem because I am no way a sports photographer neither a paparazzi. Otherwise I definitely won't be using mirrorless.

Why for goodness sake would anyone need this? It will be a pain if a camera stops shooing in the middle of a series. How can one know how much frames he will need?

Just use RAW and don't use ACR LOL! No worries about NR and LMO. Lens has nothing to do with NR. Most lenses have enough sharpness to resolve 5um pixels. At least in the center of the frame.

+1 to built-in RAW converter)))

Unfortunately x-pro2 with 1/250 won't be a game changer. In order to have really high sync speed Fuji has to introduce leaf shutter lenses. I really hope these will come some day.

The best way to sync at fast speed with profoto air is getting x100t + conversion lenses. I use this and totally happy. It's highly possible that there is no way to get HSS with X-T1, but I can't say for sure.

It looks like base ISO is still 200.

X-Pro2 might have ISO dial.

I've seen X-E3 in my sleep today. It looked exactly like X-E2 silver. It seems like I'll have to wait quite long to check my dream foreseeing even if Fuji won't drop X-Ex line in favor of X-Tx0 line.

Just open aperture one step from minimum.

That's quite usual situation. A manufacturer makes a camera. Than they wipe out all the bugs and add features users miss via the second generation. The third gen is usually just minor upgrade to up-to-date technologies. That's just statistics. Lot's of examples of different brands.

No thanks, if it takes five years more. I expect less difference between 2 and 3 generations than between 1 and 2.

Faster sync speed, HVF I guess, faster mechanical speed, dual SD, sealing. Quite great update over X-Pro1, real update over X-T1. The hard choice will be between X-Pro2 and X-T2.

Just keep everything on a shelf

Unfortunately these are not Canikons that are almost the same as previous model and renew every two years. We expect X-Pro2 to be huge improvement over X-pro1 and the time difference is five years.

I've never used adapted or third party wide angle lenses so my experience with tele lenses can be really different.

milandroI'm sorry, I wasn't clear enough. I haven't said 10-24 has superior image quality. I've meant that statistically images will be better, because when you need longer focal length, you can zoom rather than crop. You have to have smth longer in addition to 12mm like 18/2 or 23/1.4 to keep the IQ as high as possible. In perspective terms these 2mm which is 17% do matter when you really need to be as wide as possible. You can compensate it if you can go back little bit and adding digital perspective correction. But firstly, IQ degrades at the sides where it's already moderate. Secondly when shooting interiors you are usually already standing next to the wall and these 2mm can make real difference. Thus IMO 10-24 wins in interiors thanks to the wide angle. And it wins for exteriors thanks to zoom versatility. Although tilt-shift lens would be much more useful here than any of the listed lenses. You don't need complete darkness to have problems with the lack of aperture jumper. For example I shoot a lot with off-camera speedlights at f/8. Taking into account X-Mount cameras sync speed and speedlights power, the constant lighting is usually quite moderate. In this light camera has no problems with focusing wide open and EVF refresh rates are high. But as soon as I half press the shutter and aperture closes things get way worse. Noise, low refresh rates etc. With manual aperture lens noise also make it hard to focus. Thus I don't like adapted or third party lenses. Getting back to the subject I see almost no reason to shoot tightly closed aperture here. Thus it might not be a problem in this particular situation.

I use OVF when I need to reframe during continuous shooting. X-T1 has hard times to deal with it. Older cameras is almost impossible to use as EVF freezes during continuous shooting. Can say nothing about X100T and X-T10. Otherwise I don't use it either.

16mm has an advantage over 10-24 in low light because OIS can't offer three stop advantage at such wide range. At least for every single shot. I usually take about ten shots to make one sharp photo at 1/2. Unfortunately 16 at f/1.4 has worse IQ than 10-24 at f/4 and 16mm. Rokinon/samyang 12/2 is OK but you loose AF (if you need it), EXIF (if you need it) and aperture jumper (until you always shoot wide open). It's also the most compact and lightweight solution. For architecture shooting sometimes it's important to be as wide as you can. Thus 10-24 wins here. You also sometimes need zoom versatility for architecture which is also an advantage of 10-24. In the end: Choose 16 if you shoot low light really often. Choose 12/2 for price, size and weight. Choose 10-24 for best performance. My personal pick is 10-24.

In theory the most compact lens is the one with the focal length close to the sensor diagonal. APS-C sensor diagonal is ~29mm. 27/2.8 is the most compact lens in XF lineup. Max profit over DSLR size.

In fact even more). Any caps slow down a lot. You have to remember where you put it. I never use front caps. Modern antistatic filters don't collect dust.

Fuji makes flash system fool-proof. They protect us from using stupid things like Flash+continious drive / flash + electronic shutter etc. The problem is Fuji expect user to RTFM(!!!) and make no hints why the protection is active. Once you know it, the Fuji systems does much more rational things than others. Built in flash is always bad as main source. Thus you have to force it to shoot like that. If you use hot-shoe/ttl-cord flash you won't meet so much trouble. It powers on by itself. It has flash compensation button on the body. On the other hand fill flash works great. Having dedicated commander option is great too.

The handiest solution is a hardware switch. High end cameras usually have these that lock more or less functions. There can also be an option to change the role of the switch. To toggle functions for example. How about face-detection/RAW-JPG/lock/etc switch? Dial lock can also be turned into a switch to please everyone. Use it if you like it. Nevertheless I prefer the lock like X-T1 has.

This lock function sucks. It takes too long to turn it on/off. If you have time to lock/unlock then you have time to check everything. Nikon had much more useful camera lock.

Quite rare cases though. Why all Fuji users should experience overweighted workflow because of several special purpose shooters? If Fuji wants to cover these too, they should release special high res camera like everybody else does.