Jump to content

Dis

Members
  • Posts

    226
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Dis

  1. I expect the problem of getting medium format useful live view comparable with current X-series one could happen to be more challenging. I doubt rangefinder MF camera could compete with DSLR. Thus working mirrorless model is necessary.
  2. Looks nice. Although I'm OK with cheap filter without glass.))
  3. I'd recommend 10-24 for landscapes until you really do lot's of astrophotography shooting and are not afraid of coma of 16mm.
  4. IMO you can print any size. 300dpi is relevant only when viewing from close distance. You won't be viewing 30x40" from 2'.16MP is enough to print 15x10" which is maximum format you want view from close distance. 24MP will provide some space for cropping while you need perfect conditions and best lenses at their optimal settings to resolve such high pixel count.
  5. The gear doesn't really matter. We are talking about the difference which is always the same. Nevertheless 2/3 stop means a lot as soon as you are professional competing with other pros. Even a marginal advantage can make you a job winner. Thus I agree that in some situations even a 2/3 stop advantage means a lot. Nevertheless I am sure that the topic starter doesn't meet these circumstances. Thus I'd consider focal range and WR against price and size.
  6. I do quite a lot of low light shooting. I used to shoot concerts too. 2/3 stop of digital amplification can't turn low noise level into unacceptable. You rather need no noise at all and shoot at base ISO or noise is acceptable and 2/3 stop added noise is not a game changer.
  7. You've meant F2.8. I'm one of those who rarely notice real world difference in less than 1 stop. Factors like broader zoom range, weight, price, WR are much more significant.
  8. 18-135 is only 2/3 stop slower than 18-55 in 18-55mm focal range. It's not a number one really needs to consider with this kind of lenses.
  9. I use cactus V6 flash triggers. They have built in wireless shutter trigger via micro-jack port of the camera. Unfortunately I've not tried this feature. Nevertheless wired micro-jack trigger works great. As a bonus I've made this extremely simple trigger by myself.
  10. As I've said Sigma is not a native lens. It looses digital corrections. You can't be sure if it will work with next generation cameras. When you buy a native lens you pay the price of current and future compatibility. With professional lenses you also pay for durability. Sigma has had problems with this one but the new Art series seems to be OK. Talking about IQ it's fair but hard to do. Comparing on native sensor FF lens will have better resolution due to the sensor size. At APS-C DSLR it will have an advantage at the sides and corners as these are not really the corners of the lens. At mirrorless APS-C it will probably loose due to the fact the sensor was designed for the other working distance. To me the most meaningful comparison is the usability. The problem is it's really a matter of taste. I shoot nothing with single 24/1.4 lens and I don't want to carry 1kg lens with anything else. I would really prefer the new Nikon 24/1.8 if I was shooting Nikon. It's also cheaper than the Sigma. And XF 16/1.4 is perfect for me with Fuji. I would not buy Sigma X-mount version even if it existed. For example for astrophotography Sigma 24/1.4 + Nikon D810(a)/Canon 5DS® could probably be the optimal bundle.
  11. $1550 for canon and $2200 for nikon is not more affordable than $1000 for Fuji. Sigma is not native lens so it's unfair to compare with it. The fair question is why no third party manufacturer produces X-mount 16/1.4 lens. If the sigma 16/1.4 existed it should be cheaper than 24/1.4 FF lens.
  12. This is valid for all lenses). So? Adapting sigma to fuji via speedbooster will be more expensive and looses AF, digital corrections, automatic aperture, EXIF etc. it's also ~1kg beast! Using with DSLR still looses digital corrections. And native DSLR lenses are much more expensive.
  13. Are you sure there is polarized light in your frame? The most common situation is when direct sunlight reflects on dielectric surfaces such as water, glass, trees, grass etc. It's also present in the blue sky perpendicular to the position of the sun. There are other cases but quite rare ones.
  14. 10-24 + 18-135 works for me for landscapes. X100s + 56 works for me for portraits. When things get really serious I add 16, TCL and still saving for 90.
  15. First of all you can switch roles played by command dials between each other. Thus they are called main and sub command dials. Secondly RTFM! It's all there. In short main command dial can operate: -Shutter speed from +2/3 to -2/3 of the set position on shutter dial (SD) in all positions except (A, 180, T, B ) in 1/3 increments. -All shutter range with SD in T in 1/3 increments. (with FW 4.0) -Magnifications when focus assist activated -Eye detection when face detection activated -Size of AF frame. -etc.
  16. Yes. Built-in-adapter aperture blades won't work like an aperture in-the-lens. They will cause severe vignetting. The only way to have normal aperture control is to use lens aperture blades.
  17. The size is great for X-T1. You don't need third party opinion for this. Just go to the local store and try it yourself.
  18. Totally depends on your preferences for lenses sizes and focal lengths. Nobody can decide that for you. Both lenses are great.
  19. I think it's worth to wait x-t2 to compare it with x-pro2 to decide which one you really need. I expect x-t2 could have some advantages over x-pro2 like larger EVF or more manual controls. But that just my thoughts about the future.
  20. This is definitely coma. Central stars are sharp. Edge stars look like comas around the center. That's quite usual uncorrected aberration.
  21. They have to do exceptionally bad to loose Samyang. Native lenses always have a number of advantages.
  22. I bet for fisheye. The lack of fisheye in Fuji lineup was also highly discussed. Thus I can't say it's a huge surprise.
  23. They are really close. I'm totally happy with STD one.
  24. Using body cap takes too much time. I've never seen anybody do that. Just point the camera towards the ground.
  25. Fuji has announced metal square hood for 16mm. Don't know when it will be available.
×
×
  • Create New...