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I have no idea which lens I should buy to cover my ultra wide needs. I am interested in landscape/architectural indoor and outdoor shooting. The 18mm I feel is just not wide enough. I was wondering if anyone experienced in shooting indoor/outdoor architectural photography could give me their recommendation which lens to buy. Should I go as wide as possible ? (I don't want fisheye distortion)

What is the sweet spot for indoor photography?

 

My biggest questions:

Xf 14mm

- is f2.8 fast enough for indoor shooting?

- wide enough Compared to 12mm

 

Xf 16mm

- wide enough for buildings and indoor work?

- not much difference with 18mm?

 

Samyang 12mm

- how is the build quality

- maybe too wide? (Distortion)

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Only you can answer your own question since lens choice depends on how you shoot. I'd say either find a local or online rental place and try the 14, 16 and even the 10-24 for a few days or week or go to a real camera store that'll let you try each lens. If you're really into architectural photography you should look at the Kipon Tilt Shift Adapter and third party lenses. Tom Grill wrote an article a while back on it. http://aboutphotography-tomgrill.blogspot.de/2014/01/tilt-shift-adapter-on-fuji-x-e2-x-pro1.html

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Maybe you should have the 10-24 zoom lens on your list?

 

It's f/4 but has OIS, so probably OK for handholding with non-moving architectural subjects.

You get the versatility at the cost of size and weight.

 

I second the recommendation for reviews at lenstip, and add a suggestion for similar reviews at http://www.photozone.de/fuji_x

 

Mark

I wanted the zoom when it was announced, but because of my shooting style I prefer a prime. It forces me think about the shot a little more. The extra speed and weight/ size is also an important factor. But thanks for the tip!

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Only you can answer your own question since lens choice depends on how you shoot. I'd say either find a local or online rental place and try the 14, 16 and even the 10-24 for a few days or week or go to a real camera store that'll let you try each lens. If you're really into architectural photography you should look at the Kipon Tilt Shift Adapter and third party lenses. Tom Grill wrote an article a while back on it. http://aboutphotography-tomgrill.blogspot.de/2014/01/tilt-shift-adapter-on-fuji-x-e2-x-pro1.html

Where I live there aren't any places which rent out fujinon lenses. I know ultimately the decision is mine. But I would really like to hear more opinions from x-shooters who own or shot with all these lenses. If had the funds I'd buy them all! I prefer to correct distortion in post, since I'm not interested in using a tilt/shift adapter or lens. Too much hassle in my opinion. And it seems to me you need to use a tripod for that. I prefer shooting handheld.

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I've got the 10-24mm and the Samyang 12mm. The zoom is sharp and will give you flexibility, the 12mm is cheap and really great quality. Honestly, at the price of the 12mm (the Rokinon is cheaper, same lens) it's a no brainer. Get the 12mm

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Yes, the Sam/Rok 12mm is the value king. It's not quite as incredible as the 14mm (which may be one of the best 90deg lenses out there - according to my Leica buddies), but it's considerably wider and and a stop faster - and that's an amazing achievement. If you need wider than 14 and you're on a budget, it's an obvious choice. Even if you had the zoom, you may want to have a FAST ultra wide available.

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I've got the 10-24mm and the Samyang 12mm. The zoom is sharp and will give you flexibility, the 12mm is cheap and really great quality. Honestly, at the price of the 12mm (the Rokinon is cheaper, same lens) it's a no brainer. Get the 12mm

Thanks for the wonderful advice. I am getting the Samyang.
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Yes, the Sam/Rok 12mm is the value king. It's not quite as incredible as the 14mm (which may be one of the best 90deg lenses out there - according to my Leica buddies), but it's considerably wider and and a stop faster - and that's an amazing achievement. If you need wider than 14 and you're on a budget, it's an obvious choice. Even if you had the zoom, you may want to have a FAST ultra wide available.

 

Thanks for the advice! I've decided to get the 12mm. I can always get the 14mm in the future if I need something narrower and have some extra cash laying around.

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I have both the 14 and 16 and both are great, but now I use the 16 most. This lens is just great (maybe it because its new?) and it have been fixed on the body since I got it.  What I like most is the close focus and 1.4 it give a new view on tiny items :-) Sorry to say, I am in love again ;-)

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Also depends on what sort of effect you're looking for. If you want that stylised, ultra-wide angle look, go for the 12mm. Whereas if you want a more naturalistic, journalistic, wide-angle where the lens effect is less intrusive, go for the 16mm

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Also depends on what sort of effect you're looking for. If you want that stylised, ultra-wide angle look, go for the 12mm. Whereas if you want a more naturalistic, journalistic, wide-angle where the lens effect is less intrusive, go for the 16mm

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

never shot ultrawide before... So I'll probably need to figure that out for myself.
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Don't forget the Zeiss 12 mm, great lens and now available with a solid rebate.

I considered the touit. But seeing how cheap the Samyang/Rokinon is, the reviews, the fact that they're the same focal length and the cheaper one a full stop faster it's a no brainer between these 2.

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After almost buying the Samyang/rokinon i suddenly changed my mind. I own the 8mm fisheye for when I want to fool around, but didn't like the build that much. If I'm gonna invest in a new lens I have to be 100% sure I won't regret it. Now I'm torn between the fujinon xf14 and xf16. When I get the chance I'll definitely try them side by side. But if you guys could only choose 1 ultra wide... Which would it be?

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I have the 10-24 and the 16

 

The 10-24 with OIS will let you shoot handheld in many situations that the 14 will not. The 14 is only 1 stop faster (2.8 vs 4) and the OIS does much better than that. Well braced, I've obtained sharp results at 1/2 second handheld. Between the OIS and zoom range, the 10-24 is so flexible. 

 

Then for moving subjects where OIS is not helpful, the 16 at 1.4 is 2 stops faster than the 14 and also lets you focus really close. 

 

For me, the 14 is the odd one out... 

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Have you considered the Voigtlander Heliar 15mm? Ive been looking at the LTM but don't know how well it performs on the Fuji's. Maybe someone else can give there feedback from experience.

 

 

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Have you considered the Voigtlander Heliar 15mm? Ive been looking at the LTM but don't know how well it performs on the Fuji's. Maybe someone else can give there feedback from experience.

 

Just a thought of mine:

 

Why paying 740 € for a manual focus f/4.5 slow lens when you can have a very similiar lens (according to focal length) with super fast f/1.4 and kinda portrait and macro (15cm min. focus distance) capability for a few bucks more? PLUS: you get WR, AF, LMO...

If your answer is weight and compactness... then mine is XF14!!! Even 12 gramms lighter and more than 1 stop faster than the 15/4.5 lens. Even 77 gramms lighter if you also sum the adapter!!

 

So the Voigtländer 15/4.5 seems not to be a big deal for Fuji users except you want a nice and vintage looking lens. Then go for the 15/4.5 ;)

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Have you considered the Voigtlander Heliar 15mm? Ive been looking at the LTM but don't know how well it performs on the Fuji's. Maybe someone else can give there feedback from experience.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

The old LTM version is horrible on digital, and it makes no sense using 4.5/15 on apsc. Not when there is a 2/12 for less, or 2.8/12 and 2.8/14 with AF for a little more.

They released the v3 to fix the performance on digital, basically for the FF A7's specifically, in like no time at all. That's how horrible it was, they just had to fix it immediately!

 

The old LTM is fantasic on film with the Bessa L though, that's what it was made for (!!)

It doesn't have the color fringing problems on film, and the extreme vignetting is part of the deal and actually useful for film negatives.

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