Max_Elmar

This is the main thing non-pros don't understand about hard PJ work and batteries. All those nice numbers someone got taking pictures of their cat in the living room go straight to hell when the ambient temps are even modestly hotter or colder - let alone temperature extremes, when all bets are off. Electric car engineers understand this - that's why they build systems to manage the battery temps and keep them in a good range. Love my Fujis, but if I have to shoot a big outdoor event in warm or cold weather I still grab the Nikon... It's not battery capacity, it's temperature management and load. Nearly all mirrorless cameras are still really BAD at these two things.

I guess you're kind of screwed if you need to reprocess and you no longer have access to that camera? Yeah the camera ASIC is fast to render/demosaic, but what else about your camera is actually faster than a fast SSD on your computer? Is that "lightning-fast" Fuji phone app that impressive? Think about it schlepping hundreds of full resolution files photos both ways. UHS-1 SD cards and USB-2 ports don't really have much of a place in a professional workflow.... I'm not saying I can't be done well, but given the sad history of camera makers making software, I wouldn't delete your copy of Iridient Developer just yet.

So, basically you start back at zero, none of the LR adjustments are applied? Or does X-Transformer read and apply those too? Does it stack the resulting DNG file? (The Mac version doesn't seem to work that way - must be a bug. I have contacted the developer, I will report back here when I hear.) (Edit: Ok, I got it working. Questions answered. Installed it wrong. My bad.)

I don't think this works the way you all think it does - when used as an external editor I think LR is just handing off a TIF to Iridient (Developer or X-Trans) and stacking the edited file. You're not getting the advantage of the using Iridient for the de-mosaic. It's not really a plug-in - it's an external editor. The idea behind X-Transformer (when used as a stand alone) is that you de-mosaic and convert the file to DNG so all the luminance/color bits are preserved but Adobe's de-mosaic isn't used - the file is already RGB before it's imported to LR. Or am I missing something?

Junkmanukuk - I think just the one in the menus. No hardware-based "two-button reset" like some older Nikons.

The stock Fuji lens caps are shockingly bad. I toss 'em in a box for emergencies/resale. Love cheap ($3) "Sensei" replacement caps from B&H. I keep the metal hoods on the 18/2 & 35/1.4 use Optech soft caps over the hoods. Still have one of the silly rubber ones left. Toss 'em in the same box as the other other caps. My favorite Fuji tip is that the metal hood from the 35/1.4 works perfectly in place of the giant metal hood provided with the 60/2.4 - that metal hood might be better used as mounting for a ring light. I kind of miss the days when one carried a set of 52mm filters and a few hoods and you were covered from 20mm to 200m.

Does it change when you spin either control wheel? They can be set to override the aperture ring control. Easy to knock out of place.

Better than ever and still the best. Supposed to be a Windows version eventually. Not that I care, but I understand why it is frustrating.

In got used to 36mp in my professional work very quickly. I have never once said to myself "Gee, I'd like to go back to 12mp." 16 feels "adequate" for personal work, family photos, etc. But I won't turn down 24mp when I can make the jump. Of course it's a small market. Medium format has been small market for a long time. But it can really deliver in the right hands.

Thanks, I missed that one. Must be plenty of X-T10 models left - not discounted at all yet.

Um, who said the X-T10 was "discontinued?" I know the X-T1 was, but X-T10? I would expect that next spring or so....

That's great, but I was really hoping for any battery grip at all for X-T10 or X-E2...if they can do it for a little D3100.... They are very handy for small cameras as you can simply remove them if the extra capacity is not needed that day.

Our friends in China need to get busy making aftermarket battery holder grips for the entire Fuji line. Don't even care about the extra controls! Ok, a release would be nice. How about $30 for a battery holder/grip for the lowest Nikons or Canon Rebels....yes, they exist. I shot the PA Ren Faire Saturday and I had to swap batteries 3 times in my X-E2... lost a shot or two because the battery level indictor sucks. I've been shooting my Nikons since then just to get over it.... The worst part is there is almost no warning - one notch down from "full" - a few shots later, dead. It's like Nikon DSLRs were 10 years ago. Batteries are important to serious shooters, Fuji! Get it together! (To be fair, I should point out that the heavy usage was on me a bit as I had "high-performance" mode engaged, 5 min auto off, I was using some fill-flash, some video, and it was super hot that day. Sort of a worst-case scenario. I got about 100 shots per battery. OUCH.)

Yup. Focus memory is both handy and good. It would be very helpful for macro or extreme tele. Nikon builds it into the lenses - only a few, however. But Nikon lenses don't move themselves when set to manual focus! Fuji nearly always* returns the lens to the "safe" position when the camera is turned off or goes to sleep, or just when you review an image. Drives macro/studio people nuts. Lost photos, even! Focus memory would probably fix. *I think the 14 and the 23 keep the focus distance when manual focus mode is engaged ON THE LENS. Hopefully the next macro lens will have a mechanical manual focus mode too.

Still using Aperture for volunteer photo work for my son's swim team. Still works surprisingly well, esp. with the NEFs from my D7000. Since the raw support is built into the OS I see no reason one couldn't continue to use it until it is no longer supported by the OS. For Fuji - still loving RAF conversions from Iridient best of all, so...

I like the sharpness and the composition. But I keep thinking I want someone to let that dog off that chain. I think that means it's a successful photo.

I have an older (NLA) Domke F-804 - a rather large canvas messenger bag that gets used as a general purpose briefcase/camera bag/laptop bag for work. Could be anything in there. Usually 1 body, a lens or two, an iPad, and/or a MBP, and 5 lbs. of tools, flashlights, gaffer tape, change of underwear, tie, etc. I just bought a black canvas Domke F-803 as my main Fuji bag. Similar to above, but about 1/2 the size. Not a big bag, but easily holds X-E1+2 bodies, 12/2, 18/2, 35/1.4, 60/2.4 & 50-230, flash, extra batteries, etc. I have been using (and still use) a small Tamrac ballistic nylon bag - which can hold an X-E body/lens and 1 or 2 other small lenses. Great for a small subset of gear. It's nearly 20 years old - my Leica IIIc lived in there for years! I have a Case Logic backpack for my DSLR gear - Nikon D7000 or D800, 17-55/2.8, 80-200/2.8, 300/4, 35/1.8, 50/1.4, SB-600 + misc. stuff - goes to swim meets, big events. All these bags get used on a regular basis - with equipment swapped around as needed..

Judging from the number of people -- er, um -- discussing it in other threads, I think it's across the board. My X-E1 & X-E2 both do this. I have heard X-T1 people complain about it. I would imagine Fuji could add a "focus memory" function, but I understand why they wouldn't want to change the basic behavior. The lens should return to a "safe" position when the camera sleeps or shuts down. Could be a power management thing with image review. Might have something to do with the linear motors in some of the lenses. They would to have to be powered up even to hold focus position. A stabilized lens would need to remain powered up to hold the framing.

Nice work! All quite good, but that last one is fantastic.

When you read about the 60mm, (one of the first 3 Fuji XF lenses) just remember that a lot of those reviews were written using an original X-Pro1 with 1.0 firmware. Many generations of "Kaizen" down the line - the 60mm is not nearly as bad as some of those early reviews suggest. That said, in the Fuji line up the LM lenses are the fastest focusers. Those linear motors are equivalent to AF-S in Nikon speak, or true (ring) USM in Canon parlance. Thus, it's really hard to beat the 18-55 as an all-around snapshot lens....

Yeah, this drives macro guys nuts. Probably not going to change. Pretty sure the only way to avoid this is to keep the camera awake or use manual focus lenses. (Perhaps the Fuji 14 and 23 are exceptions? In manual mode, of course.) I'm pretty comfortable using manual focus lenses on a Fuji - focussing is easier and more accurate than any DSLR I've ever used. The Samyang/Rokinons - the latest ones designed for APS-C are quite amazing and reasonably priced. Lot's of solid macro lenses in the 90-180 range out there. And there are millions of Leica and Leica copies to play wth.

Oh, yeah, I agree, the dirt or fingerprints don't really matter... most of the time. Until you try for that great shot against the light or with the sun in the frame. And then you're screwed. (Hey, maybe you like Instagram flare filters...) It only has to bite you in the butt once or twice and then you get it...

There are several styles in stock at B&H in the 43mm size - pinch-to-remove - even a nice metal screw in type if you want to be super-retro. One of the best looking models says "Canon" on it in big letters. (I have no idea what that means.) If you use the little hood that comes with the 35/2, you may be able to find a push-on type (obviously a little bigger than 43mm) that that would allow you to keep the hood mounted and the lens covered.

Yeah, use with TC is the surprise for me. And OIS makes it way more of a general purpose lens - folks may buy one in place of the 90/2. Fuji will have a hit on their hands. The mid-range is now nicely redone with small, modern, WR lenses. I could probably live with just the 23 and the 50 in tiny bag (w/ spare batteries, cards, polarizers, etc.) Edit: For some trips, I'd have to fit my Rok 12/2 in there too.

The Rokinon 21/1.4 is a bit wider than you requested (about 32mm eq FOV), but it is a native X Mount lens, requires no adapter, and is reputed to be quite good. (Some sample variability aside.) B&H has them in stock for $379. No chip to communicate with camera, but seems like a good value otherwise. Buy new and return it if you don't like it.