Jump to content

XF 18-55 OIS blurs my images


petergabriel

Recommended Posts

On some occasions - especially at the 18mm end - it seems like the OIS blurs my images. I can get like 3 in a row that are slightly blurred and then when I switch off the OIS the next images I shoot (same motives from same position) look just fine. Pin sharp. The pictures are taken in bright dayligt with high shutter speed and the motive is people 2-3 meters away from me. I have never seen the issue on the tele end and sometimes OIS seems to work just at the 18mm end as well. OIS is set on my x-pro 1 to continuous.

 

This makes me wonder if I would be better off swithing OIS off during the day and only use it when the shutter speed gets to slow, as it seems to be a little to active for my liking.

Edited by petergabriel
Link to post
Share on other sites

I was under the impression the OIS would need to be turned off if you're using a tripod because the OIS will try to correct the motion blur that is not there.

 

Though, I haven't had any issues turning it on, be it on a tripod or not.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Turn it off under 1/60th used to be the charm for me with the 18-55mm I based that on Fuji little orange yellow vibration alert. You will notice in your view (depending on what display option you have configured) a little wobbly hand icon appears when you go under the FUji recomended SS for the lens you are using. That was when I would usually consider either upping ISO or turning on stabilization depending on the nature of the shot.

 

an 18-55mm does not need to be stablized in good light. Something like the 55-200 or 50-140mm different story.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On some occasions - especially at the 18mm end - it seems like the OIS blurs my images. I can get like 3 in a row that are slightly blurred and then when I switch off the OIS the next images I shoot (same motives from same position) look just fine. Pin sharp. The pictures are taken in bright dayligt with high shutter speed and the motive is people 2-3 meters away from me. I have never seen the issue on the tele end and sometimes OIS seems to work just at the 18mm end as well. OIS is set on my x-pro 1 to continuous.

 

This makes me wonder if I would be better off swithing OIS off during the day and only use it when the shutter speed gets to slow, as it seems to be a little to active for my liking.

 

I was under the assumption (and we know what that means)  that OIS should be OFF if you are using high shutter speeds, or if the camera is on a tripod.  With that having been said, I've been using my 18-55 since February 2013 and I have not experienced this at all (except when I forget to turn OIS off when on a tripod).  Have you run any tests?  Have you made sure your technique is down pat and that it's not slight motion blur?  Have you tried this say by putting the camera on a rock steady surface and shooting a book, or something similar both with OIS on and OIS off?  I'm just wondering as I've never experienced that particular issue.  Hope you find a solution.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Some photos may be helpful here.

 

Without looking at any samples, it does sounds like your lens has issues. May be a good idea to return the lens.

 

I've been dealing with Nikon for a while now regarding the VR issues on one of my lenses. If you need to turn VR off (handheld) at any shutter speed to get sharp images, there's something wrong. Likely, the VR is not functioning correctly. On higher resolution cameras, you may need to let VR settle before taking the shot.

 

Currently both my Nikon body and lens has been sent back to Japan for further diagnostics pertaining to other issues as well. Awaiting results and advice.

Link to post
Share on other sites

One other thing has occured to me, when i had this lens the sharpness issue with OIS improved massively post a Lens firmware upgrade that specifically addressed OIS performance in this lens and the 555-200 and possibly the 18-135mm. It might be worth checking your lens is on the latest version of its firmware. 

 

G

Link to post
Share on other sites

Why would you want to keep a lens that has possible issues with the OIS?

 

Nikon advises that if the VR has issues, turning VR off won't always get you sharp images. As Fujifilm's OIS is a floating device, it'll depend on the physical position of the OIS lens when locked (or OIS off). I translate it to be a bit like Russian Roulette.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Why would you want to keep a lens that has possible issues with the OIS?

 

Nikon advises that if the VR has issues, turning VR off won't always get you sharp images. As Fujifilm's OIS is a floating device, it'll depend on the physical position of the OIS lens when locked (or OIS off). I translate it to be a bit like Russian Roulette.

 

Because I bought it used very cheap, and it works 95% of the time.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.
    • Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • I think my Fuji 150-600 F8 is a brilliant wildlife lens in terms of sharpness, portability and value but the small aperture does cause issues at the start and end of the day - even pushing the ISO as far as I dare, I can see shutter speed down to 1/25s - stabilisation isn't an issue but asking a deer to stand still for that is too much! In the same situation, an F4 would give 1/100s so the difference to the success rate would be phenomenal... and that's without the other improvements like shallower depth of field. I also find that the Fuji's subject detect AF gets pretty iffy in low light - I keep updating to the latest firmware but it doesn't seem to get any better. I was originally looking at the Nikon 500mm F4 E but good examples secondhand are still reasonably expensive but like-for-like Sigma lenses are around half the price. Reviews I have read suggest that they are as good optically, AF performance and IS-wise but you gain a few hundred grams of weight (but less than the older Nikon model). For a couple of grand, I can live with that. Does anyone have any experience mounting one on an XH2S? What about with the 1.4 teleconverter? It feels like that is pushing it anyway - hefty lens + TC + Fringer all sounds a bit...wobbly? It is on the Fringer approved list but I am wary about AF speed in particular. I had also considered looking for a used Nikon 400mm F2.8, which would be even faster (and heavier) and could couple with a TC to give 560mm F4 but again, it is that lens+TC+Fringer combination that worries me as being just too many links in the chain. Of course, what I really want is a native Fuji prime but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon - and if you look at what Nikon and Sony are doing, if Fuji do ever bring out a 500mm prime, it will probably be a small, light and cheapish F5.6, which is only 2/3 stop better than my zoom at the same focal length. Any thoughts anyone?
    • The Amazon link is an annoying feature of this forum - its automatic and is applied to every post for advertising purposes. My question was - how do you know the camera wi-fi is on and requires turning off? I would have thought this would just use up the battery for no purpose if you aren't specifically using a function that requires wi-fi.
    • I've made a point to push Angelbird memory products as they are the best performance cards you can get, The sustained write speed is important.
×
×
  • Create New...