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About akphoto

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  1. I bought a Godox V1 for my X-H1 and X-T2 camera's. I have 2 problems with both camera's: 1 - Autozoom does not work (I am sure I have set this up correct) 2 - The distance scale on the Godox is not correct. For example: in TTL at ISO 400 with 1/125 sec and f 4,0 the Godox shows 9 meter flash distance. My Fuji ef-x500 flash is showing 16 meter distance which is strange because the Godox should have more power then the Fuji. Anyone else with the same problems with Godox V1?
  2. Thank you Alan7140 for your great in-depth story! I myself have done some experiments with X-transformer and Capture One. I will share my settings here (RAF files from the X-T2). X-Transformer: RAW Process: Smoother Sharpening: Medium Everything else on Default I think when RAW Process is set at More Detailed the files from the X-T2 are a little bit over-sharped. The same for the Sharpening settings: I think the Default setting is in between the Medium and the High settings. The Default and the High settings are also a little bit over-sharped for my taste. So I choose the Medium setting here. Capture One (10.1): After I import the DNG files created by the X-Transformer I change the Sharpening settings a little bit: the Amount is 140 by default which is to much for my taste and I change it in something between 50 and 100. That's all I do when I edit a DNG/X-Transformer file in Capture One (regarding sharpening of course). But... I also looked if I can achieve the same look with the original RAF files in Capture One (let them look the same as the DNG/X-Transformer files). I discovered that with the following settings I almost get the exact same result as with the DNG/X-Transformer files: - Structure at 10 - Sharpening Amount around 250 With just these 2 settings applied the RAF files shows pretty much the same amount of details (and of course no watercolor effects) as the DNG files that came out of the X-Transformer. But this is of course just a preliminary conclusion. I can image that some kind of pictures look better when using the X-Transformer so I have to test a lot more. What I am going to do in the next weeks: I will import all Fuji files twice in Capture One: one RAF and one DNG(X-Transformer) file and then compare them and learn about the differences. I will use the above settings for both of them as a starting point. When I have more news about my experiment I will let you guys now!
  3. I don't consider myself a pixel peeper at all... I am a professional photographer, working with Canon 5D camera's, and also using a Fuji X-T2 recently. I have used Fuji camera's before, but only for my vacations and free work projects. For that purpose I was happy with the results I get out of LR. But now I want to use Fuji also for some professional work, and then I am going to look more critical at the raw processing and the results. Now last week I have sent some images to a client of mine, taken with the T2 and edited in LR. Pictures from a building in a green park (so with a lot of foliage surrounding the building). And then my client complained about the strange way the foliage looked to him... And I can only say that his complaint was right! The way LR renders the RAF files is just not good enough for professional use. So this is not about pixel peeping but about making money with photography and keeping clients happy, take them seriously by providing them with pictures with the highest possible IQ!
  4. Latest version of LR and latest version of C!. On Windows 10.
  5. I just bought an X-T2 after using an X-E2 for some years. When editing my RAF files from my X-e2 I used Capture One because in Lightroom I always see the "watercolor" effect when an image contains foliage. Now I hoped that the new sensor from the X-T2 was a better combination with Lightroom and foliage. But after importing one RAF file (with foliage in the picture) from my X-T2 in Lightroom and in Capture One I know this is not the case. See my screenshot comparing Lightroom (left) versus capture One (right): https://www.dropbox.com/s/xalkqcwdh669z92/lr-c1.jpg?dl=0 I really don't understand how people can choose Lightroom to edit their RAF files. This watercolor effect is not only in foliage but it can be visible in other structures too. It can't be that this is only happening on my computer, in my Lightroom, with files from my camera... right?!
  6. Well... I did some test shots with DR100 and DR200 with JPEG and RAF files. I did an interior shot with a window in the image. I imported the 2 JPEG and 2 RAF files in Capture One and I can clearly see the difference in the JPEG files (of course) but also in the RAF files! The image with DR200 show more detail in the window and far less highlight clipping. This counts for the JPEG and for the RAF, but the effect is most strong in the JPEG. The RAF file with DR200 seems to be automatically "corrected" by Capture One. I mean that Capture One seems to do "something" good with the DR information that is in the file. The DR200 RAF file is slightly darker in the shadows then the DR100 RAF file, but this is just so little that just setting the shadows slider in Capture One at 15% solves this. I don't need to adjust the exposure slider. So to me it's clear that the DR settings are certainly useful when using RAF files in Capture One! I will do one more test and then also use DR400. I will let you know!
  7. Oke, so what you saying is that using DR settings for RAF files is useless, right?
  8. I am always using the RAF file, not the JPEG. Does it make any sense to use the DR settings when only using the RAF?
  9. Two things: when I look through the EVF I can see the histogram but at that moment my attention is mostly with the composition of the image. Second, I still can't see the overexposure warnings in the EVF and I like to check both histogram and highlights warning. I will follow your advice to make the EVF more representative of the final raw file. I am already playing with the JPEG settings to create a setup where the histogram of the raw file (in Capture One) comes as close as possible by the preview in the camera. Setting the highlights at -2 already seems to helped a lot so far. I ques I also have to get used to use the histogram in the EVF more, I am so used to the optical finder from my Canon... But I really like the IQ of the X-T2, especially when I use the 14.2.8 for my interior work, what a great lens is that!
  10. Hello Picturer and milandro, what I meant is viewing the histogram during the review of the image, directly after taking the image. So like Picturer already said I already have set the histogram to show when I take the picture (in the EVF), so no problem there. But after taking the image I can only see a full preview of the image on the LCD, without the histogram. Then when I press the play button I can choose the info screen which shows the histogram and a small image with highlight blinking warnings. So I ques what I want is not possible with an Fuji camera, at least not now (maybe possible after a firmware upgrade?). I must say I am a little surprised that nobody else seems to be missing this feature. For example: I am taking a lot of real estate pictures, so a lot of interior photography. With that kind of pictures I always have to deal with the windows in the room which are almost always included in the picture frame. I always search for the correct exposure where the windows are just a little bit overexposed but not to much, so I can still see what's outside the building. To achieve this I take a couple of test shots and then it's just very nice when I can see the test shots directly on the LCD screen with the histogram and with the blinking highlights warning. Now with my X-T2 I have to press the play button once after every single test shot I make to get this information. One other example: when I do wedding pictures I also like to see the overexposure warnings because of the white wedding dress. I want to be sure if the dress is not overexposed, so on my X-T2 I will have to press that play button again after every shot... I don't think that just looking at a preview picture on the LCD without any additional info like an histogram and over exposure warnings is the way to go when you care about correct exposure, at least not for me.
  11. I just bought an X-T2 and now use it for my work next to my Canon 5D mark III bodies. On my Canon I am used to a workflow like this: 1 - take a picture 2 - view the image on the LCD on the back in INFO mode; so I can check the histogram and the blinking highlights (if there are any) This workflow is important to me but unfortunately I am not able to do this with my X-T2. It seems that the only possibility to view the picture on the LCD screen is a full screen image on the LCD without any information like the histogram or highlight blinking warnings. To see this information I have to press the play button after every single image I take (and make sure that the INFO screen is displayed then). So my question: am I missing something? Is there a setting to make it possible to show the picture with all the info on the LCD screen directly after taking a picture (instead of only showing a full screen picture without info)? Thanks!
  12. Hello Flysurfer/Rico, thank you for joining. Let me first say that I always very much appreciate your articles on Fuji Rumours! However, do you really think Lightroom is a good converter for Xtrans, especially when there is a lot of foliage in the picture? I think you have done a good job with both pictures, but I do like mine more. I have edited this example with Capture One and at this moment I am thinking of adding Capture One to my workflow to do all Xtrans editing. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ro8qcib5jklg1sx/fujiforum01.jpg?dl=0 I do have another very interesting example which gives a very clear view on the big differences between LR and C1 with Xtrans and foliage/landscapes. I will post that example tomorrow.
  13. I already applied the Bridgwood presets to these pictures. It doesn't help a bit to avoid the ugly watercolor smearing in the foliage! Please do take a look at my samples, and then tell me if you still disagree with me that it looks very bad...?! I also put the original RAF files online so everyone can download my files and if someone is able to develop these files in Lightroom without this ugly smearing in the foliage (and still produce a sharp picture) I buy a good bottle of wine for him/her! https://www.dropbox.com/s/xiut96n3ygq8o8l/_DSF7376.RAF?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/t59ibldytj7uzhw/_DSF7378.RAF?dl=0 After hours of trying, learning, testing, reading, using presets from Bridgwood and others, I strongly believe it is not possible to edit foliage in Lightroom without a very notable smearing of details.
  14. I just can't image how some people claim that the newest Lightroom version CC 2015 1.1 is doing a better job with Xtrans RAF files then before. I did make some test images today, specifically looking for the "foliage watercolor problem" to see if anything has become better with this latest Lightroom update. Just take a look at this 2 photos and look at the smearing and watercolor in the foliage. It is just looking very bad (in my opinion...) https://www.dropbox.com/s/235o9vagw51o6nz/01.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/vmdt8thlz01m9yu/02.jpg?dl=0 Crops from these 2 pictures with watercolor/smearing: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9gek02xc080w64h/crop01.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/yx4krq52qgsaaht/crop02.jpg?dl=0 I personally can't image anybody being happy with Xtrans RAF files being edited in Lightroom. These same images look a lot better in Capture One, where the smearing and watercoloring is gone! I find the combination Xtrans/LIghtroom totally useless. I wonder if anyone that is using this combination can show me an image with foliage without this terrible smearing/watercolor effect? I believe it is not possible... I really like the Fuji x cameras, I have an X100s, X-E2, 14/2.8, 35/1.4 and 60/2.4. I am a professional wedding photographer and I always work with Canon EOS 5D camera's and I still do today. I use the Fuji set as my lightweight everyday/travel set. But... I am now close to the point of selling my Fuji stuff. Okay, in Capture One this smearing of foliage is gone, but there are other problems instaed. I don't like the way Capture One is rendering the skin tones from RAF files, these are much more red compared to the great skintones in the OOC jpegs and the skintones in Lightroom. I also don't like the UI from Capture One and the fact that I have to buy and learn antoher raw converter because of this Xtrans sensor problems... (althought a lot of people cal it an Adobe problem, but I am not totally convinced about that). Any people here to share my thoughts? Or thinking about selling their Fuji's because of this?
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