Jump to content

FUJIFILM will develop an XF 8-16mmF2.8 WR lens


Recommended Posts

Get both ... I did!

 

Got the 10-24 first, then 12 months later I got the 16.

 

I use them at totally different times, so having both is ideal

I use the 10-24 when outside in adequate light or when I want (or need) hand held slow shutter as the IS is quite good.  I can shoot @ 1/4 second easily with that lens and get a nice sharp image.

 

I use the 16 when I go indoors and set the aperture to 1.4 and don't touch it.  That is where that lens shines.   :)

Too much $ to justify both for a simple hobby photographer like me :)

I'm actually thinking of selling the 18-55 so I can purchase either 16 or 10-24 with a good conscience :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

If it were me, and just for hobby, I'd get the 10-24 because I find it to be quite a versatile lens.  Excellent for ultra wide angle landscape and architecture stuff ... great IS ... and zoom to 24mm to get that coveted 35mm full frame equivalent for casual street type photography.  I use and enjoy that lens much more than the 16/1.4.  

 

The 16/1.4 only comes out (for me) when I'm doing paid gigs and I require F1.4.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

If it were me, and just for hobby, I'd get the 10-24 because I find it to be quite a versatile lens.  Excellent for ultra wide angle landscape and architecture stuff ... great IS ... and zoom to 24mm to get that coveted 35mm full frame equivalent for casual street type photography.  I use and enjoy that lens much more than the 16/1.4.  

 

The 16/1.4 only comes out (for me) when I'm doing paid gigs and I require F1.4.

And now I'm also thinking about the rumored 18 f/2 MK II  :o

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Wow....I kinda prefer the uncorrected version. The corrected one just makes me dizzy! :D

I have an X-T2...shooting in RAW....sorry I am not understanding since not technically knowledgable - "Adobe Camera RAW has a profile for it on an X-camera"....are you referring to Lightroom or Photoshop or in-Camera?  

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an X-T2...shooting in RAW....sorry I am not understanding since not technically knowledgable - "Adobe Camera RAW has a profile for it on an X-camera"....are you referring to Lightroom or Photoshop or in-Camera?  

ACR is in both Lightroom and Photoshop.To the best of my knowledge, they function identically. They function as a RAW to bitmap converter with a rich feature set. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

It would definitely be bigger, just compare any F4 to F2.8 lenses that are the same focal length.

But that being said ... if they released a 2.8 version and did not put IS in the lens ... it may not be too much larger than the current which has IS. 

So why a zoom, and why 2.8? Given the sort of shots they're almost always used for, does anybody really use UWs at their long end? And does anybody really need them to be 2.8? In my DSLR days I used the (lovely) Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6. But shot almost everything around 10mm and f/8. And I think most people I know who use UWs do pretty much the same. So, why not develop a nice, compact 10mm f/4?

Link to post
Share on other sites

You are right Qiki. These are the mysteries of human mind.

 

Despite the way real people use real things in real life, they still want anything which they buy to “ go up to 11” ( quote from  “ a spinal tap”) and they want it regardless, even if they never go “ up to 11” themselves.

Link to post
Share on other sites

So why a zoom, and why 2.8? Given the sort of shots they're almost always used for, does anybody really use UWs at their long end? And does anybody really need them to be 2.8? In my DSLR days I used the (lovely) Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6. But shot almost everything around 10mm and f/8. And I think most people I know who use UWs do pretty much the same. So, why not develop a nice, compact 10mm f/4?

 

The needs of the working pro differ from the needs of the enthusiast.

 

Since my photography is almost 100% professional as I have other hobbies I spend my time at .... I can comment that I use the 10-24/F4 a lot when shooting a wedding ceremony to fly between the ultra wide angle for the entire scene and then back to fully zoomed in for the candid shots as I walk around perimeter of the ceremony.  I also use that lens a lot for the first dances at the reception to get the awesome ultra wide angle of the decorations and guests as they have their first dance, then I zoom in all the way to get a waste-up shot of them with a little of the background.

 

When I shot Nikon I had the same lens but it was F2.8.  I noticed the extra stop loss of F4 when I got the Fuji during the darker dance times.  To try to keep the background similar, I had to now go higher ISO or slower shutter speed (would prefer the slower shutter speed) ... it depends on the scenario.  But for the most part, it made no difference for the ceremony's having to go F4.  But that zoom range is very handy to have when doing closer, more intimate photojournalism style of work.

Edited by Adam Woodhouse
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

So why a zoom, and why 2.8? Given the sort of shots they're almost always used for, does anybody really use UWs at their long end? And does anybody really need them to be 2.8? In my DSLR days I used the (lovely) Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6. But shot almost everything around 10mm and f/8. And I think most people I know who use UWs do pretty much the same. So, why not develop a nice, compact 10mm f/4?

 

 

I would disagree as different types of photography often lead to different ways of shooting.  I used focal length of my DSLR UW zooms but I was often shooting in environments where I had little to no control or might need to reframe from one position.  Shooting wide and cropping in can change the "feel" of a shot or slow down a workflow on a tight deadline. 

 

The UW is a foundational to the photojournalists tool kit for shooting environmental portraits, action in tight spaces, the "Hail Mary" postgame handshake, crowds and for remote camera setups.  Landscape shooters may not be able to get closer or further back.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I would love to see a 8 to 16/f2.8 (12 to 24 APS-C)

 

I shoot mainly landscape and the current 10 to 24/f4 (15 to 36) is too wide to be be a true landscape lens even though it is a sharp lens.

 

Is this 8 to 16/f2.8 a rumor or has Fuji committed to this lens?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.
    • Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • I think my Fuji 150-600 F8 is a brilliant wildlife lens in terms of sharpness, portability and value but the small aperture does cause issues at the start and end of the day - even pushing the ISO as far as I dare, I can see shutter speed down to 1/25s - stabilisation isn't an issue but asking a deer to stand still for that is too much! In the same situation, an F4 would give 1/100s so the difference to the success rate would be phenomenal... and that's without the other improvements like shallower depth of field. I also find that the Fuji's subject detect AF gets pretty iffy in low light - I keep updating to the latest firmware but it doesn't seem to get any better. I was originally looking at the Nikon 500mm F4 E but good examples secondhand are still reasonably expensive but like-for-like Sigma lenses are around half the price. Reviews I have read suggest that they are as good optically, AF performance and IS-wise but you gain a few hundred grams of weight (but less than the older Nikon model). For a couple of grand, I can live with that. Does anyone have any experience mounting one on an XH2S? What about with the 1.4 teleconverter? It feels like that is pushing it anyway - hefty lens + TC + Fringer all sounds a bit...wobbly? It is on the Fringer approved list but I am wary about AF speed in particular. I had also considered looking for a used Nikon 400mm F2.8, which would be even faster (and heavier) and could couple with a TC to give 560mm F4 but again, it is that lens+TC+Fringer combination that worries me as being just too many links in the chain. Of course, what I really want is a native Fuji prime but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon - and if you look at what Nikon and Sony are doing, if Fuji do ever bring out a 500mm prime, it will probably be a small, light and cheapish F5.6, which is only 2/3 stop better than my zoom at the same focal length. Any thoughts anyone?
    • The Amazon link is an annoying feature of this forum - its automatic and is applied to every post for advertising purposes. My question was - how do you know the camera wi-fi is on and requires turning off? I would have thought this would just use up the battery for no purpose if you aren't specifically using a function that requires wi-fi.
    • I've made a point to push Angelbird memory products as they are the best performance cards you can get, The sustained write speed is important.
×
×
  • Create New...