Jump to content

Lens suggestions


LastLusitanian

Recommended Posts

Hello beautiful peeps,

Was wondering if I could get your advice. I have a wedding coming up for a family member and I wanted to pick up a lens for the event. I’m not the primary photographer at all, just want to have fun and take some stunning images (and make them wish I was the primary photographer with my little X-T5). What would be the best addition for me to add to the lens collection? I already have the XF33mm 1.4, 18-55mm zoom and the Viltrox 13mm 1.4. I’m thinking one of the XF56mm, the XF50mm? Or maybe upgrade my zoom? Or is another filters a better bet? I want something to take gorgeous portraits with yummy bokeh!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the bokeh from the 50f2. The 56 can be even more bokehy but at f1.2 the DOF is very narrow and at a wedding you will likely not have peace and time for careful shots. The 56 is also much bigger, heavier and more expensive. I have the 90f2 and that is a beauty but it needs space for a portrait.

You can use the 50f2 very well for travel, I use it a lot for landscapes etc. 

But you already have the 33 and in confined space that may be better. Maybe even shorter, the 23 f1.4 would be very useful for a wedding. Depends on the venue etc. 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the official photographer a professional. If so then make sure they’ll allow you to make photos while they are. Most pros will not allow it. 
 

I was a commercial photographer and didn’t do weddings or work for the public but I can tell you from 55 years of experience that having other people hovering around especially with a camera or phone camera competing for your subjects attention is a HUGE PROBLEM. There can only be one photographer meaning only one director and one person demanding the subjects attention otherwise you have eyes turned, heads turned and bad photos just because someone wanted to make a few pix. 
 

I shot a huge amount of retail fashion for ads and catalogs and have used many many models from babies to o e foot in the grave. I instructed parents if they were going to be in the studio they had to stay back in the shadows, stay out of sight and no photos and especially no coaching the models. And yes I’ve had to run people out of the studio because the can’t resist “say cheese”, “look here” and “smile”. It’s impossible to get the models attention and get their focus on what you want with distractions going on. 
 

If the primary photographer is a professional be prepared to be told, no pictures and out of the room. 
 

A second reason is this is their profession and how they make their living. They don’t want or need uncle Bob or cousin Betty giving their work away bumping them out of sales. 
 

I only did commercial work and none for the public but have met people who went to their kids soccer or sports games that shot pictures for fun during the game and then took tons of prints to the next game snd gave them away. Some of the teams hired pros to shoot them and one parent destroyed their sales from that game. 
 

Most professionals require a contract and generally say absolutely no photos during their shooting. They work as though the bride and groom belong to them and demand their undecided attention.
 

Don’t be offended if you’re told no photos and consider the person they hired is trying to make a living. 

Edited by XrayArtist
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Hello, it worked!! thanks for your help
    • I don't know whether I've missed something along the way, but here's my view: Firstly, I'm new to the digital world, having used film all the way (still using film as well as plates on occasion). I've always used prime lenses, with zooms being something  of a reluctant inclusion to my armoury. I'm still using the old glass a bit on my X-T5. However, I've found to my surprise that the kit lens, for a start, (the 16-80mm f4) is actually very good. I've also got the 55 - 200mm and the 35mm prime (this being my "nifty fifty". I'm happy with the coverage and happy with the IQ from them all at the middle aperture ranges which I use so much. Time was when I wouldn't have given a zoom much consideration at all, but these lenses aren't letting me down in any way. In fact, I was seriously impressed for once to find a kit lens which was a "keeper" (weather-resistance included!). If someone was starting out, they could get by very easily with that on its own for quite some time, without feeling the need to replace it soon after purchase. I only actually got the kit lens because I had nothing which would speak to the camera, and I wanted the camera to have every chance to show what it could do Given that my most used lenses on my SLRs were the 50mm and 135mm, I had those in effect from the off in one lens. OK, they're not as quick as primes, but that isn't an issue for me. When I bought the X-T5 my intention was to buy a full set of primes over time, but I'm not feeling the need to at the moment. Am I missing something here? Genuine question. Don't be afraid to point fingers and laugh if I am missing something. I'm a big boy and I can take it! But, yes, that is my question and my quandary before I commit any further money in the Fujifil/Fujinon arena. 
    • Tomaz, do you see the flickering indoors with artificial lighting, or also outdoors in natural light ?  When I am at low f numbers e.g. 1.4, 1.8 with a shutter speed e.g. 1/125 and with a scene lit by a fluorescent lamp @50Hz (a simple lamp without an intelligent driver, for example Helvar, that operates at higher frequencies), I see this “flickering” in the EVF like you do. That is caused by the interaction between the frequency of the light source with the EVF refresh rate. You can use Flickerless Shutter Speed Setting to eliminate this effect. 
    • Good morning, people. I'm a recent convert to mirrorless and an even newer convert to Fuji, so please, if my questions appear foolish, make allowances, please!
×
×
  • Create New...