jchabalk

Did you see the note greybeard mentioned too, about Long Exposure Noise Exposure? That could definitely be the thing that's causing your delay as well. And if it does address your problem try to make a few frames the next time you're out - both with it on or off and then you can decide if it's worth the added exposure time. The only other thing that i'm aware of that would do something similar, but for nowhere near 20 seconds, would be having "clarity" turned on in the IQ settings. But that would add 1-2 seconds tops to each frame. If you don't do this already, freshly format both of your cards in your camera. With these few things i think you should be in good shape.

+1 to this. Something else to consider regarding write volumes - although i think it'd be minor: Shooting RAW + JPG and backing up across cards you're writing ~100mb to each card (~200mb total) for each exposure. Each raw is about 80mg and each "Fine" is around 20mb. You could try the RAW to Slot1 and JPG to Slot2 and see if you notice a difference at all. That would reduce your write volume to a max of ~80mb to slot one, and 20mb to slot 2, per exposure - a 20% reduction to the largest although I doubt it would make a noticeable difference. FWIW i do this with mine. I have 2 identical V60 cards in each slot. The buffer fills after 22 frames and then starts writing out. It doesn't take more than about 2-3 second to empty the buffer to the SD cards. I don't shoot that many frames but i was trying to figure out what the limits were and it happened at 22 frames the 2 times i tried it. The write out was much slower on an older SD card (1066x)

I've been looking at the recipes on the FujiXWeekly.com site and they're organized by processor (and then again sometimes by groups of cameras that have the same processor). I have seen some configuration options called out as being introduced with certain cameras but i guess i haven't yet been able to find a breakdown of each camera (or processor) and whatever control points they all have. Looking through a bunch of recipes the other day i was seeing (mostly) configuration options that were available in both my X-Pro2 (X-Trans III) and X-T5 (X-Trans V) i assume they both render a bit differently but have yet to compare the 2 with the same config. These "recipes" are a bit confusing in that they tend to be published as a bullet list and then either entered in manually via the camera directly, or via the app, or manually put into an XML file and loaded into the app. It's all a bit... loose - which probably is what's causing confusion for me. I'll just treat any of them as starting points i guess and go from there. I'd been shooting raw only and post-processing and using recipes for in-camera processing is interesting and something i hadn't really taken any time with until now.

I've been using Fuji cameras for long time but just recently started using X Raw Studio and i'm trying to understand a couple of things: Recipe Compatibility: I see a number of posts (and recipes) that specify which x-trans processor a certain recipe is compatible with. I've been looking at the recipes and the resulting .FP1 files that are created. The .FP1 files seem to have the same configuration options across the various x-trans processors. What i'm wondering is what this "compatibility" actually means as i can program any of these on my X-Pro2 or X-T5. Is it that each x-trans processor renders the resulting image slightly differently so the output of a recipe developed on an x-trans IV processor will render differently on an x-trans v equipped camera? *i might be missing something with regard to the configuration options but i've gone through a several recipes and FP1 files now. Organizing Recipes: The app is a bit convoluted and the docs are minimal but I figured out that the "user profiles" in the X Raw Studio app are a place to store recipes that aren't on the camera (great). I've been playing around with recipes and downloading a bunch. It looks like you can't use nested directories to try to organize which recipes are visible to the app (without some mess of symlinks which may actually be a good option). I'm wondering how others organize a library of recipes? Do you just have a long list and handle it manually or do you muck with the recipe naming to force a sort order? Organizing things on the filesystem is much easier than using the app but i'm looking for suggestions from others. cheers and thanks in advance for any feedback here!

Check out the 23mm 1.4. It's a great all around lens and could be the perfect fit for a wedding. There's a newer Weather Resistant version that's out. I've had the older one for about 8 years now and use it a lot.

https://www.uniquephoto.com/lens-caps/fujifilm-flcp-43-front-lens-cap-for-xf-35mm-f-2-r-wr-lens-16489258/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid_search&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&scid=scplp9022550&sc_intid=FJDX0761&gclid=CNbn34rjr84CFUaBfgodPJQLnQ

If you could dig up the links and share that'd be great. i can't imagine why someone would think they "wouldn't work,", they certainly do. Here are few examples: Fuji X + Lee Big Stopper Fuji X + Neutral Density

The 35 f2 uses a 43mm front filter Here's a link to the Seven5 43mm ring ($25USD) EDIT: I have and use this combination. I tend to use the wide-angle lenses more with NDs but there are not problems at all using this lens

I have the Lee Seven5 system and can confirm that there is no vignetting using the Fuji 14mm - which supports what i'd read prior to ordering it as well. I ran through a few quick tests once i got it (f2.8 and f22, near and far focus) and there was no vignetting at all using 1 and 2 lee filters at the same time. In practice i've found the same to be true I read a thread where someone experienced reflections from the printing on the front of the lens during long exposures with the 14mm.I cut out a ring of flocking material and covered the print with it - i've had 0 issues with it in practice. The other reviews that i read stated: The Seven5 system starts to vignette around 12mm using the fuji 10-22 It shows no vignetting using the Rokinon/Samyang 12mm. I don't have either of those lenses so i can't confirm or deny. I've used the Lee 100 system with medium and large format cameras in the past and really like it but the size of the 100mm setup was too much for me to deal with with the fuji. I use a smaller bag and carry less gear. Along with the Seven5 filters, holder, and rings i bought the Vu Filter system case. It costs 1/2 what the Lee case does, and will hold the entire Seven5 system (and more filters than i'll ever have). The whole thing slides perfectly into one of the side pockets of my Domke bag. The cost of the 75mm filters and adapter rings is significantly less than the 100 system as well. Speccing out the costs between the 2 it was cheaper to buy the 3 Seven5 filters i wanted, the holder, 3 rings, and the case than it was to buy 2 100mm filters and 3 rings. So now I have a good 100mm setup for b&w MF/LF photography (which is all i ever shoot with those cameras anyway) and a good setup for my APSc digital photography (NDs/Grads).

This is a problem for me too, shooting landscapes i tend to focus the scene with autofocus, compose and lock down the tripod - then pull the focus ring on the lens back and flip the camera to manual to shoot. When it resets focus it's a real bummer.

Where'd you get the right size o-ring? a plumbing shop? (or is it too small for a place like that)

I think i know what you're talking about here. Is this the same thing you're talking about? I tend to use the camera in single shot af mode (usually EVF and ERF mode) which means i refocus and recompose frequently sometimes. There is a slight lag in the viewfinder sometimes but i've found that when i shoot the image (regardless of the state of the viewfinder) the image is made fine. I just figure it's a product of my effectively cycling the viewfinder off/on repeatedly. It doesn't both me but is something i adjust for. This might be different than what you're talking about though.

I've had my camera for a couple of months and have experiences the turn off/on message twice. It happened twice in about 10 minutes and was the same afternoon i applied the 1.01 firmware update. I haven't had it happen before that or since. I found a few problems while i was messing around with the Camera Remote app (detailed here). Seems like from this thread though that wifi use in general is a little brittle. Battery life isn't great. Here's what i do to fix it: I pretend i'm shooting rolls of 35mm film and i change the battery every 10 rolls or so. It's so much easier and faster than changing rolls of film, and i could never carry 50 rolls of film as easily as i can carry 5 batteries That's it though. I'm really pleased with this camera.

This isn't something i'm planning on using much but i'm on holiday and had some time to put it through its paces. A reliable remote trigger that doesn't require any additional hardware would be nice though.

I was shooting some family pictures yesterday and figured i'd try to use the Camera Remote app (iOS) to trip the shutter. (X-Pro2 v1.01 w/35mm f2 WR) Previously i'd used the app in the house - sitting on a chair with my phone and the camera on the table in front of me - to make sure i knew how it worked. There were no issues using it in the house: video was responsive, quick focus response, and tripping the shutter was quick and reliable. I was pretty impressed with it. It didn't very well in actual use. Connectivity Problem: We were out on a beach and there were 4 other wifi networks visible on my phone (aka: not a lot of possible sources of interference): Standing about 20 feet from the camera the live view video was jerky and intermittent - not a big deal since i had previously framed the picture and was using a tripod. Tripping the shutter remotely via the app was a big problem The camera only took a few frames out of the 30 or so times that i released the shutter in the app. Since there's no feedback within the app that the image was made there's no way to know without checking the camera. So when i went back to review the images there were only 3 or 4 pictures Manual / Auto Focus Problem: I framed the shot Locked down the tripod and focused the camera Changed the camera to manual focus mode to make sure focus would stay set Turned on wifi on the camera and connected the app Image was fully out of focus in the app but sharp on the camera Focus controls in the app were unresponsive The only way to fix it was to leave the camera in autofocus mode (and reconnect the app) I didn't have a chance to try to reproduce this yet but it appears to be related to manual focus mode and using the phone app. Connect / Disconnect - sub-optimal UX: In the camera remote app when you navigate between the different modules (file transfer, camera remote, geotagging etc) the app "disconnects" from the camera The disconnect appears to cause the camera to shutdown (or freeze) - the camera is dead to the touch with nothing on the screen. Turning the camera off/on again and everything's fine but then you've got to navigate through the camera to turn on wireless again, connect etc etc etc, disconnect, off/on, navigate etc etc... Overall that application is pretty cool, if there are issues like this using it over very short distances it's not very usable. The cable release is probably the only thing i'd want to use it for and that was super unreliable at ~20 feet, line of site.

I don't have much to add except that i also am not a huge fan of the diopter control. It's one of those things that even if you need to use it you set it once and forget about it. It's really easy for it to turn just by taking the camera out of your bag. I'm going to put a piece of tape over it this weekend and see if that solves it.