Jump to content

Recommended Posts

14-42 f/4 OIS WR.  - Usage hiking / travel / general

Emphasis on relatively low distortion, even sharpness across the frame at infinity focus, low vignetting and flare resistance. Would accept f5.6 constant or slightly shorter on the long end if this would keep the size down and have excellent wide open properties.

 

30-60 f/2 OIS - Usage long end of event / candid portrait

Emphasis on center sharpness and bokeh, wide end covers true normal for body length portraits / small group, up to 90mm for headshots. Gives more  subject isolation than the more general 16-55 and add OIS to help with dim light conditions. Complements longer dedicated portrait lenses. with a more flexible option when mingling. 40-80 could be be an alternative, but the wider start would help with being more general while still being fast and long enough to be a standout portrait lens. WR would be nice but not strictly necessary.

 

These two would probably cover everything I do with the X, and cover different enough things that I would only need one at a time.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive tested and used ALL of Fuji X lenses, and own 13 of them.

 

 

I'm impressed that you've been able to fully form opinions on the entire range, it would take me years and years to do that.

 

It's a little confusing that you'd have 13 lenses though. Surely you can't need that many? What kind of photography requires that?

Link to post
Share on other sites

The kind of photography that seems to live off angry videos with foul language and claims repeated something like 20 times in a single video, spending 70% of a video repeating unrelated bullshit before getting to the actual topic of the video. So, yeah. He certainly got an opinion. Do I care? Not one single bit.

Edited by cug
Link to post
Share on other sites

16mm is Fujis BEST lens, its stunning, next would be their 35mm F2 for being awesome, cheap, and very useful.

 

Sure. If there wasn't the 90mm that is.

 

 

But this thread isn't about what lens is the best (already existing), but what we wish for to come.

 

Personally I think a 18mm f/1.4 would be awesome.

Same goes for something like a sub 100mm 1:1 macro (guess that one is coming sooner than many might expect).

 

a 70mm f/1.4 would be awesome too, but for that one I wouldn't hold my breath. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

TBH I'm pretty happy with my lot now. (will be very happy when I get the XF100-400+TC)

 

Then the only lens I am missing I feel, is a very wide angle lens

 

The lenses I have; the only ones I use regular are the

 

18mm F/2 for street photography (I know it is hated by some but I really like the lens)

35mm F/1.4 which is my go to general purpose lens, low light, shallow DOF some portrait work

60mm F/2.4 product, macro, portrait

 

If I could only have 1 lens it would be the 35, but I'd miss both the others

 

Longer than the 60mm I'd rather use a zoom as I'm likely to be shooting wildlife, where you can not zoom with your feet.

 

Previously I really wanted the 56 F/1.2 but if I got this lens it would be purely GAS

I am not a landscape photographer and when I need to shot one, I can normally make do with the 18mm or drop on the XC16-50, as it only has to be acceptable not perfect (non paid work)

 

If I got into landscape or astro photography in a major way, I'd invest then in the required tool (maybe the samyang F/2, which I here good things about)

Edited by Tikcus
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...