Tikcus

Once you get the hang of the controls being fully manual with the aperture on the lens, the iso and shutter speed on dials, you'll not be lost for long (that and you can set up your Fuji before you switch it on)

Exposure compensation does nothing when you are in Full manual exposure mode What you are seeing on screen is the light meter which shows how many stops you are over or under exposed by. In full manual mode if you need to adjust exposure change the Aperture, Shutterspeed, or ISO

The sony pancake power zoom 16-50 kit lens is 30mm (selp1650) the xf18-55 is 70.4mm (at 18mm) the xc16-50 is 65.2mm (at 16mm) so being 10-20mm shorter shouldn't be a problem for Fuji, as it is an XC lens it will probably be an F/3.5 - 5.6 like the current XC16-50 at least in the uk Fujifilm currently has 3 options on the XT20 and XE3 (only the XT is shipped with the XC as an option) Body only (£849.00) (both cameras) XT20 With XF18-55 (£1149.00) XE3 With XF18-55 (£1249.00) Then things change the XT20 is also offered with the XC16-50 (£949.00) The XE3 is offered with XF23mm F/2 (£1149.00) Not sure why the XF18-55 is £100 more on an XE3, as body price is the same, only reason I can think of is the XF18-55 list price is significantly higher than the XF23 f/2. but still sees to make the XT a better purchase if you wanted the XF18-55

You can't just make stuff for the majority. If you don't make Professional quality gear that only the minority will take advantage of, those users go elsewhere. You can't always frame perfectly in camera, be that because you're using a prime lens and can't zoom with your feet a higher MP count allows for more cropping. I was shooting on 5"x4" film earlier this year, the film was badly scratched in the drying cabinet, leaving only 1/3 of the image usable. I was still able to produce a 20"x12" print cropping 2/3 of the film. I know this is an extreme situation (and digital doesn't get scratched) but I doubt I could produce a visually acceptable print using 1/3 of a 16MP Crop sensor printed to 20"x12" Having said that on a crop sensor camera once you get past xMP you will have other problems where the gains of more MP are offset by negatives (processing power, pixel pitch to name 2)

shoot outside or somewhere you can use 1/250 or faster shutter should remove camera shake if using the 35mm Shoot at F/8 with focus object a few meters away to give you a large DOF. would still like to see an example also make sure shooting without lens is switched on in the menus. probably just needs practice. but is a lot harder to nail manual focus when shooting with a shallow dof (f/1.7) than at F/8 etc goodluck

please can you post examples of the photographs and settings used Can you rule out, motion blur?, camera shake? or DOF issues? if you focus using the screen like on he XA instead of the EVF do you still have the problem? Do you have any Fuji lenses to test camera with in auto focus?

without reading through, i often set my bodies to use the dpad to select focus point without re-assigning function buttons in the menu just goto button/dial settings then change "selector button" setting from Fn to Focus area

When I shot on sony e-mount, I loved the pancake power zoom kit lens (16-50), it was really convenient. This is a lens that could interest me for street, currently I use the 18mm F/2 at ~F/8 the 52mm thread fits nicely with filters i already have for the 18 f/2 and 35 f/1.4. However it would need to be cheap, but I expect it will mostly become the new cheaper kit lens on the XT20/XE3 bodies and the default on the XA bodies, which means lots of cheap lenses may appear on ebay I feel that Fuji moved in the right direction with slightly cheaper F/2 Primes, I's still like to see the introduction of even cheaper XC Primes, for those of us that need something for occasional shooting that doesn't require the build quality of the XF line, but focal lengths the XC or kit XF zooms can not currently provide e.g. XC 12mm F/2.8 or F/4 XC 8mm (fish eye?) XC 23mm/35mm/50mm F/2.8 (although I doubt these 3 would be made as too much overlap with the new F/2 range)

it depends on what i am posting photograph for on my website photos that are for sale (normally from events) are watermarked, portfolio shots or photos to flickr/Instagram are not normally watermarked

Fuji released the X-A10, which as far as i can tell is very similar to the X-A1/2 - using up old sensors in a new model at a lower price point? If the X-T100 is an interchangeable lens camera, it is possible they are doing the same thing with Xtrans2 sensors to create a cheaper entry level point with a revamped X-T10

3 day rental in the uk is £59. (£144.00 for 14 days) Lens costs £1449 if you plan on doing the trip multiple times may be worth buying

Can you rent the lens?

Fuji can't break Physics Fast Glass is big, but no I wouldn't carry them unless it was for a specific job. The Package can be small and lightweight, or big and heavy, it depends how you roll and the job required. It is thankfully not a 1 fit for all situation. an X-T 10/20 or XE 2/3 body with a XC 16-50 or XF18-55 is a small and powerful package, but if you want the best performance for wildlife photography, you buy an X-T2 with XF100-400 lens which is a monster to carry around. But since I don't do a lot of the wildlife and hate weight, my ideal kit is 1 body + 35mm F/1.4 and a nissin i40 if required (along with the 18mm in the bag) it's small and light

No teleconvertor only works with 50-140 & 100-400 I can't think of anything other than the 100-400 as even 3rd party lens of that size are big. Pick up a 1" bridge camera that will give you the range?

Guess I just don't have an issue. Caps are only on lens when they are in the bag, once out of the bag the lens cap doesn't go back on until I'm finished shooting or the lens gets changed. Never had a lens cap come off the lens when stored in bag

I'm a prime shooter, and pretty much only use the 35mm F/1.4 and zooming with my feet. (18mm in my pocket maybe or on a 2nd body) But, if I truly don't know what i'm shooting I'd happily take a zoom instead/aswell. I'd never think of changing lenses on a beach etc, but I rarely feel the need to change lenses in the short (sub 60mm region). If you need to change lenses because the situations arises (e.g. can't zoom with feet) if you no longer have the 18-55 is taking a 2nd body an option? (a 2nd hand XE-2 body is cheaper than the 18-55 at least here in UK)

Hi Jim, Welcome to the forums My X-T10 and the XF-35 F/1.4 are my go to kit, I can't recommend that lens high enough. The XF100-400 is a brilliant lens, it is too heavy for me to walk around with, but when setup it produce great results. I find the XC50-230 very good, but you already know this.

I can't speak for the X-T20, but on my X-T10 (where there is no performace improvment apparently) on the NP-W126s I was shooting an event using the XF 35 F/1.4, no flash, manual exposure, I took over 500 phtographs on 1 charge, I'm lucky to get 300 from the original version

I use High quality protection filters and after testing I had no noticeable difference in image quality, but they only reason i use them is it is easier to clean them than the lens itself.

I linked that one review as it was comparing CPU's in the price bracket of OP. AMD UK are normally pretty good at replying and helping with issues, i can't speak for the rest of the world though. Hope you get the issues fixed though

For your Ryzen troubles make sure bios and software is up to date, there were a lot of day 1 fixes For content creation (anything that uses cores) for me rendering, the Ryzen 7 CPUs with 8 cores (16 threads) are a lot more productive than a 4 Core i7 (8 threads), or a 4 core i5 (4 threads) (Ryzen 5 CPUs are either 4 core (8 thread) or 6 core (12 thread) depending on model 1600 is a 6/12) As more and more software can address more and more cores, things will only get better with the more cores you have. Review and comparison at AnandTech - links to rendering but review is a good read regardless http://www.anandtech.com/show/11244/the-amd-ryzen-5-1600x-vs-core-i5-review-twelve-threads-vs-four/6

If I was building a new PC today I'd try to get an AMD Ryzen R7 1700 8 core CPU into the budget, with 16GB RAM (or at least an R5 1600 6 core CPU), both are much better for content creation than any i5 or i7 in the same price bracket. which AMD video card have they priced?

I'm using the Pro -1 52mm on XF-35 F/1.4 lens, the copy i have I could stack filters, although I have not https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hoya-Digital-Protector-Screw-Filter/dp/B0009K50TC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502624735&sr=8-3&keywords=hoya+52mm+pro The Nissin i40 is really good, compact (although it still adds a lot of weight to the camera) My copies have not had their firmware updated as I use High Speed Sync on the XT-10 and XE-2s with these flashes. The High speed sync function does not work on the X-Pro2 without a firmware update, however as I have no information regarding if it breaks HSS on the XT-10 I have not sent them to be upgraded (if that is available yet) As the Fuji Flashes do not support HSS on the X-T10. (I don't know where the XT-20 sits as far as HSS compatibility is) The Hot shoe is a standard size, although it is wired differently, your canon speedlite will work fine in manual mode i expect. I have some 30+ year old flashes that work fine in manual mode

On my XT-10, I use Hoyo Pro protection filters on the lens. Battery wise The Fuji originals provide the most shots per use (but are a lot more expensive) I've never scratched my screen yet and didn't bother with a protector Apart from the filters and a few batteries the only non Fiji accessory I own are bags and nissin i40s flashes (and studio flash equipment) I like the Fuji hand strap, makes it almost impossible to drop the camera

Way I shoot What is the Job? - What am I photographing - Take required equipment If it is an indoor event - Can I use a Flash Yes = Take a flash I use the 35mm F/1.4 for 90% plus of the time, but i'm happy to zoom with feet. If I don't know the location, I'd probably take the 18mm as well. For what I can not do with the 18 or 35, the 60mm does a good job for everything none bird/wildlife, for that you're looking at 50-230, 55,200, or the 100-400 (or 50-140 with TC) The issues you have with size, not a lot you can do when you start adding flashes, I'm not sure what you mean by snap shots, as surely that is down to composition not the lens?