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cug

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  1. cug

    XH-1

    There will likely always be changes/fixes in the firmware that aren't mentioned.
  2. To a degree. The differences between most lenses are small. People like to quote the 35/1.4 vs. the 35/2, but the difference between these two lenses on a current body is basically irrelevant. You'd have to compare something like the 60mm or so to a more modern lens. Or a lens that has to move massive glass like the 56. Overall, unless you compare lenses that are hardly comparable, there are other attributes that are much more important. Like noise when focusing in video recording or general image rendering. Regarding hunting: it still depends mostly on the body and the algorithms. Especially in video this can be annoying even with the fastest lenses and the fastest bodies. And depending on what you do or which settings you chose, all of them will have their distinctive issues.
  3. Hunting happens when the body does not find focus. The lens has nothing to do with hunting as long as it can provide enough contrast/sharpness in the given light. A 1.4 lens can be better focusing in low light than a slower lens given that it allows more light in. As newer bodies have shown, hunting is created by the body telling the lens to move back and forth when it goes into contrast detect mode. The lens only ever does what the body tells it to do. So the above quote is technically completely wrong.
  4. Try setting a different film simulation on the raw file. I don't have Capture One installed right now as I'm not using it, giving it a try with the Fujifilm Express version – it's downloading, so more info once I have it installed. Aah, found it: in the color adjustment panel, click on the "Curve" selection. Just pick whatever film simulation you want.
  5. Nope. No such thing as it just isn't possible to "create" light ... A speedbooster takes ALL the collected light from a larger imaging lens and focuses it on a smaller image circle of a crop sensor. Since XF lenses already project to an APS-C circle, you can't "bundle" more light onto it as the lens doesn't provide more. Plus there are a myriad of other issues with what you're asking like flange distance, focus, protruding rear lens elements and the like. What you are asking is physically not possible. You'll have to buy the faster lens to get more light to the sensor. No way around it.
  6. Please, don't take this the wrong way, it just pains me a little bit: it's "JPEG" (Joint Photographic Experts Group) and "joystick". I kind of agree on the JPEGs, the newer models have of course larger file sizes due to 24 megapixel vs. the older 16MP, but I'm also under the impression that the JPEG compression ratio is slightly lower and therefore retains a bit more detail, especially in soft transitions, like sky or dark shadows. I find the 24MP JPEGs also easier to work with in Lightroom as long as I don't try to make significant color adjustments. Exposure, shadows and highlights, contrast, detail etc. works pretty well. Update: oh, and welcome, just saw it's your first post here. 😉
  7. cug

    Turn off X-H1 Q button?

    The only way I found was to use the Lock feature to only lock the Q button. Which means you need to dive into the menu to disable the lock if you ever want to use the Q menu.
  8. cug

    Turn off X-H1 Q button?

    Wait, what? The Q button isn't listed in the button menu here.
  9. Choice for me would be between 18 and 23 – if you like wider, then 18, if you like slightly narrower, 23. The 18 is a great lens, maybe not as sharp or contrasty as the newer Fuji lenses, but super sweet rendering, especially out of focus areas. Check this: https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=XF18mmF2 R The 7Artisan 35/1.2 is a nice lens, tiny and therefore handling is a bit awkward. I sold mine again, it just didn't get me much over the 35/1.4. I don't know the other 7Artisan lenses, so can't speak for these. I had the 23/2 and sold it again. Nice size, but it's a bit wider than I'd like for a 23 (it's more like 21) and the OoF rendering just isn't what I came to expect having the 23/1.4 – even at f/2 the larger, faster lens is just so much nicer rendering (to my eye). I would not pick the Samyang for your use case, it's just too wide and slow, although it could be fun. I'm using the XF14 for fun shots of people, but they are rather rare. My recommendation for what you describe is the XF1 18mm f/2, that's partly because I feel you'd want a greater distance from the XF 35mm and partly because I really like the 18.
  10. Luminar has a sale going right now.
  11. The problem with that little add-on flash (EF-X8) is that it's never there when you need it because nobody really leaves it on the camera all the time. Plus you can't bounce it. The only upside (pun intended) is that it's further up. I used the X-E2 flash often to optically trigger other flashes or bounce it off the ceiling or wall for just that little extra kick of illumination. Regarding EVF – it might not be a problem for you. I can tell you that the EVF is not fully visible with normal glasses on. So, if that doesn't bother you, fine. Other than that the EVF is okay. But for me, this detail makes it pretty crappy experience. The sensor is the same size, different megapixel count. I can't tell the difference whether any of the prints I have (up to 30x40 inches) is from a 12, 16 or 24MP camera. That makes the resolution difference irrelevant. The only camera that I can reliably point out in the prints is the A7R III.
  12. No built-in flash, no d-pad, much shorter eye-point. The last one is what killed the X-E3 for me because it's such a pain in the rear to use with my glasses. I had one for a short time, sold it again and went back to X-E2. Other differences are the joystick, faster processor, and a lot of other smaller differences.
  13. Also make sure not to use Auto-ISO when using flash – it can really screw up exposure.
  14. Same here. I hate the size of the 23/1.4, but I accept it for the image quality and rendering.
  15. cug

    New to Fuji

    "Hunting" is a matter of the camera telling the lens what to do to achieve a contrast AF. A lens by itself does not hunt. Overall, there is a lot of stuff written about everything in photography equipment and a lot of it is "quite interesting". I started to trust mostly my own impressions and very few other folks. The best is of course if you tested it for yourself, but that's not feasible for everything. Of course it does. The f/2 lenses are perfect for a lot of situations and or a lot of situations. But the differences are measurable and very obvious when you compare results directly. I've done so when I had all these lenses here: XF 35mm f/1.4 and f/2 XF 23mm f/1.4 and f/2 XF 50mm f/2 and XF 56mm f/1.2 I kept the two f/1.4 lenses as well as the 56mm because I often want maximum separation between subject and background/foreground. While I would appreciate the size/weight advantage of the 23 and 50, it's not worth the quality trade-off for me as I also own an X100F. So, the best is when you try to figure out what lens properties are important to you and go from there. For me it's small depth of field when needed and the highest possible image quality when stopped down in addition to rendering I like more. But that's me, your conclusions might be different.
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