Search the Community

I have been playing with the X-T2 and found that it doesn't seem to like AF tracking at the extreme end of the 18-135mm 'Super Kit' lens... It focuses once but does not re-focus as the subject/camera distance shifts. If I zoom back to around 100mm then I have no issues... I have updated the lens to the latest firmware. I posted this on the DPReview Forum and other posters have reported the same issue when they tried it… Chris

I purchase an Fuji X-T2 which I've been using to shoot soccer with a zoom XF 50-140/2,8 It's a big step up from the X-T1 in AF-C capability. I've got the AF-C setting set to second custom preset „Ignore obstacles&continue to track subject“, and it works fine. I have done ca. 600 photos and only 4 was total out of focus. The most of photos is razor sharp. Some photos is little bit soft, but without problem - it can be easy solved by post proces. Other setting: shutter 1/1000, aperture f4, ISO AUTO, phase detect area 3x3 (zone focusing), CH 5 shots/minute, boost ON, grip XT2-VPB. !! lens OIS was OFF !! becausse panning. Conclusion: I´m very satified with the AF-C and keeper rate. Any other settings I should be playing with?

I just purchased an X-T2 and had a couple questions for those of you that have one regarding using it to shoot video. -What is the best film simulation mode to use for a flat profile suitable for color grading. I don’t have an external recorder to records F-Log. -I have the Power Booster Vertical Grip on order, which comes with a power adapter to charge two batteries while inside. Can I use this power adapter to power the camera for continuous filming, or do I need to buy another power adapter to power the camera directly for this?

The Q button falls exactly where I wish my AF-On button was for back-button focus, but I can't seem to find an obvious way to re-map it. I realize it's probably not possible, but I thought I'd ask in case there was some magic trick I'm missing.

My current thoughts on continuing to use Fuji. I have been using various Fuji cameras for a number of years professionally, however I have reached something of an impasse. The chief issue I have is the lack of in body image stabilisation (IBIS). I am a great fan of Fuji cameras (with the exception of the X-pro series which I have tested extensively but decided that the X-T1 and X-E2 suit me better). I love their lenses, particularly the primes (I have an extensive set of both zooms and primes) but I cannot understand why if they won’t stabilise the prime lenses they don’t have at least one body with IBIS? The argument that IBIS may result in a slight deterioration in edge image quality has been put forward by Fuji and I can see the point they make, however, if the whole shot is ruined because of camera shake nothing is gained. Those seeking ultimate quality can always switch off IBIS after-all. The 90mm is a prime candidate for inducing camera shake in my experience. When shooting in good light levels this is no problem but when using available light such as photographing a play or for candid work in the evening the problem becomes real. My solution is to use higher ISO to allow higher shutter speeds, but this has resulted in noisier images than I like or want to accept. The Fuji zoom lenses have image stabilisation but this is of no comfort to those who need the extra speed a faster prime lens allows. 2.8 zooms whilst lovely, do not compare to lenses such as the 56/1.2 for example. Also there are those who have chosen prime lenses simply because they suit their photographic style and habits better. Traditionally fast primes are the weapon of choice for the available light photographer and to have neither IBIS or lens stabilisation in prime lenses seems to be a retrograde step. Just about everything these days seems to have stabilisation of some sort, and this is a great boon, so it baffles me why Fuji persist in depriving us of this advantage. As a professional I have the budget to access to other systems and have tried both the Sony A7 series and the Olympus Pen F and have found that they are both at an advantage because of IBIS. Granted the Micro 4/3 size sensor of the Olympus may be at a disadvantage compared to the Fuji in terms of noise, dynamic range and shallow depth of field and the Sony is handicapped with a smaller lens range, but they both excel when it comes to low light photography because of IBIS. I recently photographed a play professionally. I used both my Fuji cameras and also the Olympus Pen F and to Fuji’s shame the Olympus produced superior images. The reason for this was simply down to the Olympus’ IBIS. Each Fuji image was slightly softer than the Olympus versions. I noticed that the Olympus was just a tiny little noisier, but only when viewed at 100%. I did a similar thing at a wedding with the Sony A7SII and my Fuji cameras and again the Sony gave a sharper image. I love Fuji colours, I love their sharpness in good light, I love the size and ergonomics of the cameras, I love their prime lenses, I love the feel of a Fuji camera and lens in my hands, I love working with the images in post-production but the lack of IBIS is killing it for me. As a professional, I need to use the equipment that delivers the results that satisfy both me and my clients. Sadly I am increasingly reaching for my Sony A7 series equipment. My heart doesn’t want to do this, but I cannot sacrifice image quality for loyalty. So this is a heart felt plea to Fuji, please introduce an X series camera with IBIS before it is too late.

Hi everybody I'm trying to use lenses and adapters I commonly used with my X-T1 (Nikkor's AIS, Metabones and Kipon); all that together was working fine on my X-T1. I am probably wrong somewhere with my X-T2 settings (Auto ISO, Auto S or not, MF), but I can't get any shutter release, MS or ES ... Sorry if the answer already exists on this forum, I didn't find it (neither did I elsewhere). So my question is : Do you guys have any idea or solution ? Thanks in advance ATB JpP

The X-T1 was a game changer for me. It cut my photoback weight in half yet gave me better quallty photos compared to my cropped sensor Nikon. The X-T2 improved that even more with the little things: Can change the battery without removing the ballhead quick release plate. I no longer change the drive mode when adjusting the ISO, a regular occurrence on the X-T1 which led to many instances of inadvertent continuous shooting. Having the ability to unlock the ISO and shutter speed dials is a big one. The readout data displayed in the EVF is really nicer The two axis LCD screen is great. No more lying on the ground when doing a vertical ground level shot with the camera on an inverted center column The 4 way selector buttons on the back are finally fingertip detectable. I'm glad the small drops of Sugru on my X-T1 buttons comes off easily. Playback view selection is multiple presses of the Back button and not a two-button affair. Sadly, overexposure blinkies is not available on the larger views. Formatting a card doesn't require menu navigation. Nice latch on the card door. My only concern is whether I can learn all the functions well enough to use them in the field before X-T3 comes out. I keep the manual on my iPhone for brain freezes when there's only a few moments when the light is right.

Page 79 of the manual talks about the two AF technologies. TTL contrast-detect AF offers more focus points (A) than intelligent hybrid AF (B), which combines phase-detection with TTL contrast-detect AF. Are these selected by the camera based on light conditions? I don't see a toggle in the menu and there's only one other unhelpful reference in the manual. Thanks, Stan

If Fuji reads these topics please can I have an update for a very minor focusing change on my X-T2 (which I hope will be delivered soon). I photograph a lot of stuff which is basically flat, a bit like copying but with bumps and sticky-up bits. Because I sometimes have a problem squaring-up myself with the subject the shot goes slightly out of focus to one side, usually to the right edge. I would like a focus option which would allow me to select 4 separate points, at once, within the finder, probably toward each corner. They would each be White when focused and go Red when not focused, thus enabling me to square-up to the subject with 4 white points. Way back I used an SLR which had interchangeable screens, one of which was a full screen Microprism. If, when copying flat sheets, you could see the subject clearly, it was in focus, all over, edge to edge. If it was even slightly out of focus it was a total scrambled blur.

Hi fellow Fuji shooters… Yesterday morning (September 15) my camera bag with my entire kit was stolen from the Grote Markt outside of the Markthal in Rotterdam. My brand new Fujifilm X-T2 and five Fujinon XF lenses, Lee filters, etc were inside of a LowPro Event Messenger bag. All of my gear gone in a flash, not to mention all of the photos on my SD cards from four long days of work! I am devastated and heartbroken!
 I am really crushed and do not know what I can do. I know it is really a long shot, but I have to write anyway. I am simply trying to get the word out to as many people as possible. If you could possibly keep an eye out in case you see or hear about anything, and pass along word to anyone else you can think of, especially anyone in the Netherlands/Rotterdam, other Fuji X shooters, camera clubs, keep an eye on classified listings for anything suspicious… I would be very grateful for any small help you might be able to offer.
 In case you might see anyone trying to sell an unboxed Fuji X-T2 or Fuji lenses near Rotterdam in the next days or weeks. I want to ask you to please try and get any information that is possible and either contact me or else the Rotterdam Police directly. I have the serial numbers available for all items, and can describe exactly what was inside of the bag. Very generous reward and no questions asked if returned to me…
 Met vriendelijke groet, 
Jason Langley

Good evening everyone! My name is Valerio and I live in the United Kingdom. I recently bought a Fuji X-T2 and I'm extremely pleased with it! I was interested in the X-T1, but it had a few niggles I wasn't really happy about, so I decided to wait until the X-T2 was released. During my life I used many cameras, from large format, to tiny point-and-shoots. Actually, my first digital camera was a Fuji FinePix A405, which took lovely images. I currently also use a Nikon D810, a fantastic camera, but far too heavy to carry around every day. Anyways, I just wanted to introduce myself and say hello. I hope to make good friends with fellow Fuji X users! Cheers, Val

Gentlemen, Now that some of you lucky dogs have the X-T2 can you tell me what size a full-sized raw file is? I've seen some X-T2 raw's around the 22mb mark, but I'm wondering because my X-T1 cranks out a 33mb raw file. Many Thanks.

First official work. I'd say is pretty pretty good. I need more experience in tweaking the Autofocus to my liking, but with the Universal one the behaviour is really good! Never used my Canon 1Dx that i brought as insurance Only trouble i had was to set the White Balance. Since was my first shooting with the X-T2 the photos where all a bit cold, with the Canon i was able to set it spot on picking the ice with a slightly off focus image! With the Fuji this didn't work :| Travis Oleksuk and Marco Insam by Matthias Egger, su Flickr Jesse Root and Brodie Reid by Matthias Egger, su Flickr Andrew Yogan by Matthias Egger, su Flickr Nick Palmieri by Matthias Egger, su Flickr

I am new to the Fuji world, having previously shot with Nikon and Olympus cameras. So far I really like the ergonomics and performance of the X-T2. I wanted a camera that allows me to think more about the image I want to capture and reduce the time I spend thinking about and changing settings, with a minimum number of focusing or unitended setting errors. My only initial concern is battery life. The first charge I spent a lot of time going through settings, so I didn't have any expectation related to number of shots. After recharging overnight, I went out to shoot and in less than 100 shots the battery was down to 4%. I did chimp after most of the shots, but had boost mode off and turned the camera off when walking between subjects. I usually can get at least 300-400 shots on my Olympus OM-D E-M1 between charges. What are other X-T2 users seeing? Is there something I might be doing that is draining power?

I had a chance to take the X-T2 with the 100-400mm out for a spin at Airshow London (the one in Canada). More images at: http://blog.svphotography.ca/2016/09/fujifilms-x-t2-goes-to-airshow.html

First Pictures taken with the Xt2 and the 100-400. The autofocus looks promising but I will need try the different modes.

Great opportunity for me to shoot something outside my usual work (Sport). I made a work with 2 great models and 2 great Harley Davidson.

Hey guys, On the X-T2 is there a way to either "stiffen" up the rear command dial, or turn it off? For example I use the self-timer using the Q panel at the pack. I activate the Q then scroll down to self timer. I then have to rotate the rear command dial to off, 2, or 10 seconds, but it seems way too sensitive and presses in to easily. Anyway to change this? This is my biggest bug-a-boo so far. I hate that feature. Many Thanks

Hi Here a few from a Winter Sleigh Derby. For those of you not familiar with the sport these are time trials races on a 380 meters course with 8 gates and 6 fence-like obstacles. Each team has to go thru the gates and around the obstacles in the shortest time, but there is a 5 seconds penalty if they knock down the small balls sitting on top of the cones of a gate. Same thing with the small wooden block sitting on one of the post of the fence obstacles, those will make them loose a extra 10 sec each. And to make it a bit more challenging, the course is not linear but rather randomly set in a 100 x 100 meter field and you have to do it in the right order. The gates are numbered from 1 to 8 and the obstacle from A to F, first they'll do all the gates in order and then go around each of the obstacles once again in order, get it wrong and it's a disqualification. For the horse handlers (les meneurs) it's more about control and finesse than brute power and speed, It's a great type of race to photography since they will pass in front of you a few time, so you get a chance to shoot from a variety of different angles all while standing on the same spot. Shot in AFC with a gripped X-T2 on boost at 11 fps ( great to catch the horses with four hooves in the air). The XF50-140's range was perfect for shooting from different angles. Shot in Raw, PP in LR 6.8, Irident's X-Transformer and Nik's PreSharp + ColorFX. The Flickr Album (44 pics as of now): https://flic.kr/s/aHskSW6jvd Derby de Shannon #49 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr Derby de Shannon #42 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr Derby de Shannon #23 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr Derby de Shannon #9 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr Derby de Shannon #11 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr Derby de Shannon #4 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr Derby de Shannon #41 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr

Hello guys, I am currently using a Nikon D7100 with the SB-910/700 flashes and the Yongnuo YN-622N transmitter and receivers, usually controlling the power of the flashes in manual mode. Would it be possible to use the same flash/trigger combo on an XT-2 ? If not, could you recommend another option for wireless triggering of the Nikon flashes, with a possibility to remotely set the flash power ? Could a combination of YN560-TX/RF-603N II work ? Also, would it be possible to trigger the YN-622N TX from an X-T2 by attaching it to a roboshoot MX-20 transmitter via its hot shoe mount ? Thanks in advance.