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Found 9 results

  1. Hello, I have an X-S10 camera and several lens, some with OIS such as the XF 150-600mm. Regardless of the lens, when I choose IS Mode “Shooting only”, I never get a stabilized image in viewfinder, even if keep the shutter button half-pressed (but resulting photos do seem correctly stabilized). If I choose IS Mode “Continuous”, I do get a stabilized image in the viewfinder. This behavior does not match what is explained in the fujifilm manuals or online guides such as https://fujifilm-x.com/en-gb/learning-centre/image-stabilization-explained “On the CONTINUOUS option, the OIS system is always active when the camera is on, whereas SHOOTING ONLY switches the system on when the shutter release is pressed halfway to focus. To maximise battery life, choose SHOOTING ONLY. This function also works for IBIS.” Can anyone confirm me if this is an issue? Thanks Rafael
  2. When I want to focus in manual mode I tend to use the optical viewfinder switching on the EFR (...the so called by Fuji "Electronic Range Finder"), that's that part/zone of the screen placed in the bottom right corner of the viewfinder... Optical Viewfinder (Fuji site) ...there's a n "issue", at least for my eye(s)... if the eye pointed to the viewfinder is not perpendicular to the viewfinder then the EFR is somewhat "translucent" and appears more little than the digital image shown on it... so it's really difficult, especially in some conditions, to see the digital image 'cos it's clearly visible the background optical image framed. I don't know if it's an issue of the camera and if someone else experienced this... I owned an X100S that had/has the same feature but I don't remind this difficult to see the little digital image of the EFR (...I owned a X-T1 too but I think to remind that this one have the smaller portion of the digital AF image out of the frame). P.S.: Hoping I was able to explain what I mean 'cos english isn't my first language.
  3. Dear all, First of all, please excuse the long message! On the X-Pro 2, there are many different settings for the hybrid viewfinder and the back screen, in terms of “what turns on when” and “what displays what and for how long”. I however cannot get the viewfinder and back screen to do what I'd like them to do, and after fumbling around for quite a while and not succeeding, I now resort to the expert knowledge of forum members. Rather than go through all the options, let me just explain what I'd like the viewfinder and back screen to do, then please tell me what settings to adopt in order to obtain this behavior: 1. When I switch on the camera, I want nothing to happen. The viewfinder doesn't activate, the back screen doesn't activate. 2. When I press the “Play” button next to the screen, I want it to display the latest recorded photo (ideally for 10 seconds but I'll accept another length of time if 10 seconds are not possible), then I want it to go black again. 3. When I bring my eye to the viewfinder, I want it to activate so that I can take a picture, and I want the back screen to deactivate simultaneously in case it was showing something. 4. After I've taken a picture, I want the viewfinder to deactivate as soon as I remove my eye from it, and I want the just-taken photograph to be displayed on the screen right away for chimping purposes, again ideally for 10 seconds, but I'll make do if not possible for that length of time. 5. When my eye is up to the viewfinder, if I remove it without taking a picture, I don't want the screen to activate by default, thinking I want to use it to frame the shot. In fact, and except for displaying previously taken photos, I want the screen to remain black at all times, except on the rare occasion when I deliberately choose to activate it to frame a shot (could be via a programmed function button or otherwise). I am probably very clumsy (not to mention dumb), but I haven't succeeded so far in getting the X-Pro 2 to do the above, although it sounds simple enough. I have almost managed it, but it still displays just-taken pictures by default in the viewfinder, which I don't like, instead of on the back screen. The viewfinder is thus kept busy for a couple of seconds instead of being instantly available to take the next picture (unless I half-press the shutter release, of course, but that button is quite sensitive and sometimes when I half-press it, I find myself actuating the shutter without meaning to do so, and that defeats the purpose). I will be eternally grateful if anyone can tell me how to achieve what I have described above. Many thanks in advance indeed. Dominique
  4. I am primarily a videographer and I've been absolutely LOVING our XT-2's, but... When we shot Canon, we always popped a Zacuto viewfinder onto our LCD screens to check focus and to shade the screen in bright situations. My current Zacuto setup does work on the XT-2 but it blocks the battery release and, occasionally, it will make the screen go black (really randomly). Anyone else filming regularly who has found a better viewfinder solution? Thanks! Joanna Sample of our work:
  5. Hi guys, I would need some of your advice on whether when will the viewfinder/screen of x-t1 show the actual picture condition as and when we changed the camera settings. i.e. ISO, shutter speed, aperture, etc. From what I noticed, only when i changed the aperture settings, the camera will show difference in the images. Or is it only in A mode can be seen, and not the rest of the other modes.
  6. If Fuji reads these topics please can I have an update for a very minor focusing change on my X-T2 (which I hope will be delivered soon). I photograph a lot of stuff which is basically flat, a bit like copying but with bumps and sticky-up bits. Because I sometimes have a problem squaring-up myself with the subject the shot goes slightly out of focus to one side, usually to the right edge. I would like a focus option which would allow me to select 4 separate points, at once, within the finder, probably toward each corner. They would each be White when focused and go Red when not focused, thus enabling me to square-up to the subject with 4 white points. Way back I used an SLR which had interchangeable screens, one of which was a full screen Microprism. If, when copying flat sheets, you could see the subject clearly, it was in focus, all over, edge to edge. If it was even slightly out of focus it was a total scrambled blur.
  7. Hi, I have noticed that the eyecup on my X-T2 has been loose out-of-the-box. It is obviously looser than the one on my X-T10. Has anyone noticed similar issues? Is there a way to make it tigher and not wobbling? Thanks!
  8. Does anyone know if the eyepiece can be replaced? Or any tips how to fix this? I recently bought an x-t30 and the rubber or skin of the viewfinder just peeled off. The camera has been barely used since I got busy with work. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you!
  9. Hi all, First post here. Hope some Fuji users can help - any questions answered will be helpful - thanks in advance. I currently shoot with a Nikon D90 and 50mm prime for street photography. I really want to switch to Fuji. I went to check out the Fuji range and was initially considering the X-T20, X-T2, X-Pro 2. (All with 35mm F2) After putting the EVF to my eyes for a minute I felt kind of sea sick, Ive never looked through an EVF before. So I am left with OVF as the only option. This leaves the X100F and X-Pro 2 as my only options. 1) I wear glasses - and found the viewfinder very small on the X-Pro 2, the OVF is also quite unusual to use. Does anyone else find it difficult to use (glasses wearers?) Is parallax an issue here? 2) I see the X100F OVF seems much bigger and clearer, do users find this? 3) Im concerned to buy an X100F as the fixed lens may be restrictive - I know it has crop modes, does the OVF adjust to the crop mode selected - or only the frame lines? 4) Should I wait for X-Pro 3 before buying X-Pro 2? (either because X-Pro 2 prices may drop, or because they may improve the OVF on X-Pro 3?) 5) I know they are different cameras - but would you get an X-Pro 2 over an X100F? I like the X-Pro 2 more aesthetically (doesn't mean its better in practice) Thanks, Darren
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